I just came into a large half rotten maple tree. I have read many articles that explain how to turn a green blank and paint it with end sealer.
I have looked hard all over town and can’t find anything that would be called a end sealer. Is there something that my local hardware store might carry? How about paraffin wax? How much of the blank should be painted? It seems to me that if I completely cover it it would never dry.
There is a lot of blocks. Most of it is spalted to some degree. If i was to remove all the bark and painted the end grain real good, could I leave the blanks in block form without turning? Some of the spalted is soft enough that it might be better to let it dry before turning.
I hope someone can help me here.
Thanks
Bill Hall
Replies
Most-often recommended commercial end-sealer for stacked-and-stickered lumber is Anchorseal <click>.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 9/3/2009 8:36 pm by forestgirl
Thanks.
I was hoping for something that I wouldn't have to order in. I still wonder if hot wax brushed on wouldn't be as good?
Bill Hall
Debate thrives when the topic of sealing wood against moisture loss comes up. Plain ol' paraffin wax might work fine, but not being a turner myself, I don't know. I think Woodcraft stores somestimes carry Anchorseal, so if there's one near you, you could check.
I'm sure the Knots turners will be along soon to help. In the meantime, are you aware of the necessity for excellent breathing protection when working with spalted wood? Personally, I add long sleeves to that, as I quickly developed a contact allergy when sawing some up.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Lee valley carry repackaged Anchorseal in small amounts.Parafin is ok but it has to be smoking hot to penetrate the end grain well.Anchorseal does a much better job on the wet wood (as I believe it is water soluable wax) and is available in 5 gallon pails from them. I tend to paint the whole roughed blank and it still dries ok in a reasonable time
Edited 9/3/2009 9:51 pm ET by jako17
Yep, it's water-based with methanol in it for "winterizing."forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Hi FG methanol makes it water soluble as well as stopping it freezing just like gas line antifreeze breaks the water down in the gas. Jako
Methanol doesn't really make it water soluble. It only has the capacity to dissolve in water in all proportions making the solution's freezing point much lower depending on how much alcohol is in the mix. One could use ethanol (drinking alcohol) also.
I turn quite a bit of green wood, mostly bowl blanks and all I ever use is cheap paste wax. Rough turning them gets the thickness even and allows fast drying (lots of end grain is exposed). I then put the blank in a cardboard box full of the shavings that came of it and leave it for three months then it goes on a shelf for at least three more. The cardboard box is important because it allows moisture to escape, I tried plastic bags but it just trapped the dampness. This method has worked very well for me with spalted timbers.
Thanks!
Your method sounds logical. Are these spalted timbers green when you start or are they seosoned but wet? This wood is green with soaking wet rotten sections. Some is mostly spalted and some is mostly green.
I have lots so I can experiment with it. I just don't want to find I was all wrong a year down the road.
Bill
Almost everything I do starts as green stock, I have at least 1200 rough bowls in my shop loft right now. I have a local arborist who brings me nice logs and I bust them down pretty soon after he gets them to me and I can't seem to turn them down! I end up with a lot of spalted stock in those logs. I find you will lose maybe 10% due to drying defects.
Thanks for your help!
I will end up with obout 100 blocks myself. 10% is a good rate I think. My nieghbor just came over with 5 gal of lumber end seal that came from one of the local sawmills. I will try some with end sealer and some with shavings in a cardboard box.
I do have a lot of work ahead just getting these put away. I had better get at it.
50/50 elmers glue and water works well.
Wood glue mixed with water works. I've read that Richard Raffan uses paper bags. I actually tried the paper bag method once and it worked OK.
Thank you and all the responders. I have many different methods to try now and i will try them all.
I almost always end seal with old gummy wood glue. I always seem to have some that's not good for glue-ups. fresh glue works well too.
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