Replies

1. 
   OneofmanyBobs | Jun 04, 2004 05:41am | #1

   Marbles and/or Bloxygen.  There's enough air in a half-empty can to gel most any oil finish.  Need to keep it full to exclude the air or add the bloxygen.  Its nitrogen or carbon dioxide or some sort of inert gas.

2. 
   nikkiwood | Jun 04, 2004 06:21am | #2

   I use the Bloxygen all the time, and it does work -- if you use enough of it.

   It's expensive though ($10/ can); but when you measure that cost against the money you lose throwing away 1/2 cans of solvent based products, I suppose it's a bargain.

   For a while, I had a supply of river rocks from a landscaping project (1/2" - 3/4"), which I washed off, and dumped into cans to remove air.

   The Bloxygen is easier and less cumbersome.

   For oil, another approach is to decant into a pliable plastic container, and then squeeze out the excess air before you screw the cap on. This technique works great if you can find a suitable plastic bottle at a reasonable price.

3. 
   hammer1 | Jun 04, 2004 07:36am | #3

   You need to eliminate air from the container. The easiest way is to put it in a smaller jar. Don't forget to label it.

4. 
   desertrat | Jun 04, 2004 05:18pm | #4

   Go to a Paintball supplier and get a refillable CO2 canister for just a few bucks.

   Use the CO2 to fill the can before sealing and your problems will go away.

1. 
   nikkiwood | Jun 05, 2004 04:07am | #7

   re: co2 cannister for paintball.

   Can you use this stuff just as you would Bloxygen?

   Does it come in an aerosol can?

   How does one go about finding a paint ball supplier? (This sport is not on my radar screen)

1. 
   CharlieD | Jun 05, 2004 09:32pm | #8

   CO2 is easily made by mixing baking soda and vinegar. Proportions don't matter. It'll bubble off CO2, which being heavier than air, will fill up the container that you've mixed in. Then, you can actually pour the stuff--slowly and carefully--into any other container you want. You can test whether you've actually succeeded in filling a container with CO2 but sticking a burning match down into its container (not with finish in the container, of course! Although in theory it couldn't burn because there's no oxygen, I'd never risk it. But once you've done the pouring thing a time or two, you come to trust that it works. Kind of a fun process.)

   CharlieI tell you, we are here to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you different. --K Vonnegut

1. 
   UncleDunc | Jun 05, 2004 11:17pm | #9

   >> Proportions don't matter.

   I would say proportions don't matter as long as you have enough of each. A cup of vinegar and a pinch of soda probably won't generate enough gas to fill any useful size finish container.

2. 
   nikkiwood | Jun 06, 2004 01:33am | #10

   What's the "stuff" you are refering to -- the CO2 gas, or what remains of the vinegar soda mix?

   As your friend Vonnegut might say, that sounds like a lot of farting around. (Sorry, couldn't resist).

   I think I'd rather spend the 10$ for Bloxygen, and just blow it into the container.

1. 
   CharlieD | Jun 06, 2004 05:11am | #11

   Should work fine. But this is really a simple process...mix 'em up, pour it in the bottle, done. Mixing container is easy to wash, or safe to just throw away.

   Ch

   I tell you, we are here to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you different. --K Vonnegut

2. 
   bill_1010 | Jun 20, 2004 06:33pm | #12

   a welding supplier has both argon and co2, both are inert and can be used in lieu of bloxygen at a much cheaper price.   Propane works just the same.

5. 
   UncleDunc | Jun 04, 2004 06:15pm | #5

   You can also use collapsible plastic containers and squeeze all the air out before capping.

6. 
   HowardAcheson | Jun 04, 2004 06:24pm | #6

   First, Formby's Tung Oil Finish is a thinned wiping varnish, not tung oil. It says so right on the front label. It contains no real tung oil. It just gives you a "faux" finish that looks like tung oil. Actually, it's a pretty good varnish but fairly expensive for being a thinned varnish.

   Being a thinned varnish, it will fairly rapidly begin to cure when oxygen is introduced. Just opening the can will do it. God forbid, you pour unused material back into the can after having it out in another container.

   As with all finishes, you should just buy what you will use and date any unused that remains in the container. Then discard it if it gets to be older than six months. Finish is such a small component of the cost of the project that it is false economy to try to save it too long.

   Howie.........
7. 
   bobpowers | Jun 20, 2004 06:48pm | #13

   Put the lid on tightly, turn the can upside down to be sure there are no leaks.  If there aren't any, store the can upside down.  If there are leaks, tighten the lid.  I have some finishes that are 15 years old that work quite well.