Replies

1. 
   PlaneWood | Mar 08, 2004 05:37pm | #1

   First I've heard of it.  What are the advertised advantages?

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood

1. 
   ASK | Mar 08, 2004 05:42pm | #2

   Just got off the Titebond web site.

   From their description it sounds like Titebond 2 but more waterproof and longer working time.

   Haven't tried it yet but trying to decide between it and gorilla for some joints on a coffee table.

   ASK

2. 
   PlaneWood | Mar 08, 2004 05:43pm | #3

   COMING SOON!

   Titebond¯ III Ultimate Wood Glue

   This waterproof wood glue is the first of its kind to pass Type I water-resistance specifications and have at least a one year shelf life. With added enhancements to open time and chalk temperature to the already proven strength of Titebond glues, you’ve got the ultimate wood glue for interior and exterior applications.

   Titebond¯ III Ultimate Wood Glue will soon be available through major retailers, distributors and online catalogs.

   Detailed information on Titebond¯ III will be added to this site in the very near future.

   View Image

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

1. 
   PlaneWood | Mar 08, 2004 05:53pm | #4

   Just read the detailed specs here: 

   http://www.franklinglue.com/IntroPageTB.ASP?UserType=1&ProdSel=ProductCategoryTB.asp?prodcat=1

   Wonder what the shelf life is at 95 degrees?

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

2. 
   ChasStanford | Mar 08, 2004 07:26pm | #5

   Just read the specs.... open assembly time INCREASED to ten minutes.

   Thanks for nuttin'

   This stuff is probably great in a production environment where most joints are reinforced with screws or finish nails.  For building fine furniture, where one usually avoids metal fasterners in favor of traditional joinery methods, this product is not an improvement over hot hide glue.

   Great for building bird houses and dog houses.  Lousy for sideboard..

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Mar 08, 2004 07:36pm | #6

   Sorry, but I don't understand your points.

   The assembly time of 10 minutes is double the assembly time of their standard PVA adhesives.

   Why are metal fasteners required? This adhesive is as "strong" as standard PVA adhesives according to the tech guy at Franklin.

   Why would it be "Lousy for sideboard."?

   My only question is whether it exhibits the same "creep" or lack of shear strength characteristics as standard PVA.

   Edited 3/8/2004 11:48:38 AM ET by Howie

1. 
   PlaneWood | Mar 08, 2004 07:45pm | #7

   One of my complaints with Titebond I & II down here in the heat of Texas is that it sets up to fast.  Especially when doing a wide glue-up with more than one joint.  Titebond III will be worth a try.  Another point is that I & II would gum up when sanding.  They say that III won't do that.

   Have to see how it fares in the way of glue creep.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

1. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Mar 08, 2004 08:13pm | #8

   Have you tried Titebond Extend?  I use this for large glue ups when we get the Santa Ana winds and in the summer here in so cal.  I've had good success with it.  I think it has about a 20 minute working time.

1. 
   PlaneWood | Mar 08, 2004 08:16pm | #9

   No, never have.  Haven't seen it at the local stores.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

2. 
   patternmaker | Mar 08, 2004 09:20pm | #10

   Just a simple question.

   How do you finish the articles made from fine sawdust?

   Work safely ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬

1. 
   PlaneWood | Mar 08, 2004 11:00pm | #13

   what articles??

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

2. 
   PlaneWood | Mar 09, 2004 01:26am | #15

   Oh!  I getcha!  I thought you were referring to articles as in magazines.

   I got a 100 ton hyraulic press that I use to press the sawdust into the desired 'articles'.  Hey, if they can do it with powdered metal................

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

3. 
   patternmaker | Mar 09, 2004 02:18am | #16

   I know whatchumean.I keep a coffee can of sanding dust from various woods. With a little white glue,makes a good filler to hide mistakes.I have been told that if you catch it before it leaves the shop,that it is considered part of the learning curve. A little tongue in cheek sometimes helps to get through the day.

   Work safely ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬

4. 
   DennisS | Mar 09, 2004 06:31am | #17

   Pat -

   I couldn't help homing in on your comment about mixing sanding dust with white glue as a matching filler material. I remember my hi school shop teacher using this trick. Recently I've been building some kitchen cabinets from ash, face frame type. Some of the joint exhibit my yet to be developed expertise in the process so I started looking for an acceptable filler.

   White glue and ash sanding dust turned a rather sickly dark grey rather than a nice light yellow tan I was looking for.

   What type of white glue does one use for this? I used some Elmer's white glue from the super market. Nor does TiteBond II (yellow) seem to render a very good color. Even tried CA and sanding dust rubbed into the joint which worked but was a sort of dark brown.

   ...........

   From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.

   Dennis

5. 
   patternmaker | Mar 09, 2004 07:41am | #18

   I use Elmers white for the little repairs. It dries colorless and does not effect the color of the dust.I have to finish off with the card scraper,as the glue does not sand well.

   My work is mostly foundry patterns,so a smoothe surface is more important than the exact coloration.

   For most glueups I use Titebond two.I did not know about the type three.I will try it when it is available. As I have said before,Well fitted joints are, in my opinion,more important than the type of glue used.

   Work safely ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬

6. 
   DennisS | Mar 10, 2004 06:55am | #21

   Pat -

   I don't dissagree - I'm not looking for a way to cover up sloppy workmanship but try as I might I never seem to avoid a little chip of a tearout in one place of the other or a slightly open joint that needs a wee bit of fill. Thus far I've been using a Daly's open grain wood filler with good results. Was just curious about the glue thing since that's what I experimented with before settling in on the wood filler.

   Thanks for the reply.

   ...........

   From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.

   Dennis

7. 
   patternmaker | Mar 10, 2004 07:35am | #23

   Denis:

   There is always a little ding or mar of somekind that needs a little attention. As I have said I am not primarily a furniture maker,although I make several blanket chests each year from Tenn red cedar. This is a difficult material to finish up without a repair of somekind being required. If you are familiar with this wood you know that it has streaks of light and dark as well as knots and snearly places. Even if the glue looks a little strange,once the finish hits it it doesen`t appear so much different from the rest.

   If I had a little line where a style meets a rail,Rub a little glue on the joint line and hit it with the orbital sander.Viola the line is filed up. This is not a structural thing, but a way to smooth the surface. I am by no means an authority on finishes.My trade is more about dimensional accuracy and smoothe surfaces than about cosmetics.

   Work safely ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬

8. 
   tufenhundel | Mar 09, 2004 09:55am | #19

   dennis:

   I think you'll get better results by using hide glue instead of a PVA to make the filler.  Hide glue will sand better, and will accept colorants (PVA's won't).

9. 
   billsams | Mar 10, 2004 02:13am | #20

   All, talked to Titebond around the first of March. They said Lowe's was the only vendor that has ordered the t-III and should arrive sometime after the eighth of March. Keep checking......sooner or later.

   I was interested based on the "waterproof" aspect. I am in the beginning process of building 28 pairs of exterior 3-panel shutters.

   Bill

10. 
    DennisS | Mar 10, 2004 06:56am | #22

    Thanks, Tufenhundel - Been looking for an excuse to buy a bit of hide glue to try it out .... never used the stuff before so I'm interested in seeing what it does.

    ...........

    From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.

    Dennis

3. 
   SawdustRay | Mar 08, 2004 10:08pm | #11

   What exactly is glue creep?

1. 
   PlaneWood | Mar 08, 2004 11:04pm | #14

   The glue keeps 'creeping' out.  Happens more so in humid climates.  I've only had it happen with the 'yellow' glues.  Never happened to me when I lived in Okla.  Need to let glue joints rest a few days here and use a scraper before finishing.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

2. 
   ChasStanford | Mar 08, 2004 10:10pm | #12

   If you can glue up a complicated case piece in ten minutes then you need to come give me lessons.

   Great if you're banging together plywood bookshelves with a nail gun - boom, boom, boom, done in nine minutes.... phewwww, that was close!

   Even worse when the temps creep up in the summer.....