Replies

1. 
   peter28 | Jan 29, 2008 04:20pm | #1

   Bob,

   That sounds like an impressive table top.

   Did you plan on doing any color or are you just looking to apply a finish?

   An extremely easy finish to use is Waterlox. Just follow the directions. It is simplicity personified.

   A step up in protection is a brushing varnish such as Rockhard, Pratt & Lambert.

   My last choice would be a wipe on poly although they also are very easy to use.

   I got an email from a person in my last finishing class yesterday. He built a beautiful tiger maple chest and wanted it to "sing" He brought in a few pictures of what he wanted it to look like. He had never worked with water dyes before ( but does now)His finish was Behlen Rockhard.

   His address is hevenor.com. If you open it up it is under the heading Chuck and Nancy. Pretty nice for a novice.

   Don't sell yourself short. If there are any classes in your area, it will be time well spent.

   Good luck.

   Peter

1. 
   mutual | Jan 30, 2008 03:27pm | #2

   Peter thank you for the reply. I went to Chuck's website and that tiger maple chest is a work of art. In answer to your question no, I don't want to just apply a finish. I would like the table top to look like Chuck's chest. Could you list the steps he did to achieve it. Thanks Bob

1. 
   peter28 | Feb 05, 2008 04:23pm | #3

   Bob,

   Applying dyes was a  new step for Chuck so he made made a number of color samples before he pulled the trigger.

   With W.D. Lockwood dyes as our medium;

   a medium yellow ( #142) was the base color. He experimented with some of the amber's such as golden amber etc. to warm the color up.

   Once he hit upon a combination, it went like this;

   Prior to applying the dye the wood was dampened to raise the grain and then sanded.

   The first color was applied and as it started to evaporate, the second color was layered over it.

   Once dry, I believe he used a thin oil varnish like minwax antique oil over the entire piece.

   Once dry he finished with shellac. The top had varnish applied, Rockhard I believe, and when cured he rubbed out the finish.

   This is just from memory. You may consider contacting him for specifics.

   When he showed up with this beauty, I told him not to worry because I was just going to put it in my van and take it home. It is a beautiful piece of furniture.

   On a personal note, it was fun to have a hand in the project and watch it evolve. Plus he was a good guy to boot.

   Good luck.

   Peter

    

1. 
   mutual | Feb 07, 2008 03:41pm | #4

   That sounds like a good recipe. The only part i'm not sure of is the shellac. Wouldn't the antique oil give it protection? Thanks Bob

1. 
   peter28 | Feb 13, 2008 04:20pm | #5

   Bob,

   The protection afforded by the oil is minimal at best.

   Chuck was looking for a finish with a surface film. Antique oil does not provide that. It is what we call a "close to the grain finish"

   For some that might be fine. He wanted something else. There is an inherent glow and depth that gets built in with shellac that you can't get anywhere else.

   When he sent me an email with the picture he told me the class was a real break through for him.

   Personally, it doesn't get any better than that. Now if I could only find a way to buy that chest from him.

   Peter

2. 
   mutual | Feb 16, 2008 04:22pm | #6

   Hi Peter

   Thanks for the reply. I think that the best way to add color to this tiger maple dining table is to just use shellac. My question is what shellac would you use to get a nice amber color with the tiger maple stripes. I realy appreciate your help, Bob 

3. 
   peter28 | Feb 19, 2008 04:12pm | #7

   Amber shellac. It is a three pound cut so thin it according to directions on the side of the can.

   Peter

4. 
   mutual | Feb 19, 2008 08:03pm | #8

   Peter, Thanks for information. Last questions I promise. Do you recommend a brand, and do you use denatured alcohol on edges before using shellac?   Thanks again, Bob 

5. 
   peter28 | Feb 25, 2008 04:00pm | #9

   Bob,

   Concerning brands; Zinseer is the only commercial supplier of orange (amber) shellac. You can find small bottles of button shellac made by Liberon. Woodcraft stores carry it I think. You could also go on line to find it.

   Button has a color like carmel.

   I have no idea what you mean by using denatured alcohol on the edges before shellac.

   Peter

6. 
   mutual | Feb 25, 2008 04:27pm | #10

   I read that to not get that dark color on the end grain you should first wet it with what you are working with either water or oil if that is the base of your stain. Is that correct? Thanks Bob

7. 
   peter28 | Feb 26, 2008 12:09am | #11

   Bob,

   What you are talking about, in a way, is referred to as wash coating.

   Prior to staining you could just use solvent but a better way is to use a dilute solution of shellac. By dilute I mean a 51 mixture (alcoholshellac) for a weak colorant up to 5050 if you have a dark oil stain you want to control.

   Samples as always will tell you what you need.

   Peter