The Shepherd Tools infill Norris style ‘adjustered’ smoother is sitting here on my office desk almost complete!
Readers who followed the late deliver/cashing the VISA saga late in 05 may recall that several of us placed orders for plane kits with Shepherd … then heard nothing for weeks or months! It was, apparently, a common story. Ben has said he agrees this is not good!
We grumbled. While I waited I made a nice looking (but, inspecting it now, not very well executed) little dovetailed block plane. After a lot of hoo ha, and the intervention of a FWW editor, my kit was despatchecd (plus, by way of compensation, a chariot plane kit), and shortly after Christmas (via a misdirection to Sydney – not recorded by Canada Post’s track and trace btw – and a sojourn in NZ Customs) it arrived.
Three days work later, it’s almost done. Photos soon.
First impressions – the kit parts are well machined and it’s gone together well. The instructions could be less anecdotal and a bit more technically precise, but with the on-line help, work OK. Dovetailing the brass sides to the steel sole is by far the hardest part, although not so hard in the doing as it seemed in concept! Peining allows a lot of latitude!
It’s a solid, heavy, satisfying-looking tool that should be a joy to use. I still have a few fit and finish problems to resolve (can’t get the blade and chipbreaker assembly under the lever cap, need to find a way to true the ‘ramp’ so that the blade seats 100% right down to the mouth, the chip breaker is not exactly centred on the blade …).
I’ve done some customisation as I’ve gone – the biggest change being my decision to screw the sides to the infill rather than drilling through and riveting, and an un-traditional decision to adopt a ‘Maloof’ approach to hard lines and curves … I don’t like the dubbed over softening of the traditional tool. So mine’s a bit sharper, and the wood is more clearly outlined.
Another session tomorrow, and I’ll take some photos.
Malcolm
Replies
Malcolm
Can't wait to see the pictures. Looking forward to them. Let's see some shavings, too.
Jeff
Jeff, I've just made some shavings!
Jeez, is this thing good!
Spent most of the day today (I'm on holiday, right) tinkering with final fit and finish.
Cut down the head of the bolt that clamps the chipbreaker to the iron, so the blade assembly will now slide into place under the lever cap. Figured out a way to true the ramp without opening up the mouth, so the blade sits square and true. Took about five turns off of the lever cap screw (which is a big piece of beautifully machined brass with a lovely square thread) so that sits nice and close to the chipbreaker (back iron, sometimes called). Polished. Almost finished the bottom (no belt sander, so flattening by hand - hard work), but near enough is good enough for now. Sharpened the iron. Polished. Cleaned up and reassembled. Admired my screwed-on sides. Polished. Put a nice bright-finish crown on the ends of the brass rod that holds the lever cap in place (it's a snug fit, can be pushed out to get the lever cap out). Polished. Mouth opening is a bit less than a 64th, as far as I can measure - a few thou too wide maybe, but then this will be a general purpose smoother. There's a bare half turn of backlash in the Norris-stye adjuster, which is probably as good at it gets, and the lateral adjustment is smooth and precise.
Shavings! I've also been making a run of a dozen small treasure boxes, doing some experimental pieced-up lid panels that I'm please with. Took one off the back bench, into the vice, cleaned up one side (removing the just-visible machine thicknesser marks). My word! Faultless finish (I've crowned the blade ever so slightly - no edge marks) in five strokes. Sweeeeat!
I've never used a tool as good as this!
Malcolm
Edit - and I guess if I want a superfine mouth, I could shim up using brass shim stock? Anyone tried this with a Norris? It would be easy because the blade sits on a big, long, full-width ramp.
M
http://www.macpherson.co.nz
Edited 1/5/2006 11:24 pm ET by Malcolm
Malcolm, we await macro pictures!
Using shimstock to close the mouth is a viable solution -tried it on my own plane-just not "elegant".The lower the bed angle , the greater the effect.
Are you still waiting on Jim Kingshott's book?
P.S- BELT SANDER ??? It is fortunate you didn't apply one to the sole.Philip Marcou
Pictures in daylight tomorrow
The Shepherd guys recommend belt sanding (but do say to be carefull!).
The hardest physical work in this project has been finishing the metal - sanding the sides and the sole. I didn't want to go too far with the draw-file, so had to remove a lot of the peining bulges (I was probably a bit too keen to pein as well) with 150 wet and dry.
If I was to make another, I reckon I could do it in 2 full days - this job has added up to about 20 hours, but mainly because I messed around customising. And I think I overengineered the peining buck as well.
Result well worth it though!
The Kingshott book arrived for Xmas from the oldest daughter in London! Good value - I'm trying to make an adjuster for the Shepherd chariot plane from recycled hardware following Kingshott's approach.
By the way - how do you polish a hard steel blade? It's shrugging off the attention oif my files! The edges are laser-cut, and while OK, would look better polished and squared-up nicely.
What about you? Are you up to plane 3 or 4 yet?
Malcolmhttp://www.macpherson.co.nz
I am happy things worked out in the end with Shepherd. It's to bad you had to go to extremes to get what you paid for. Can't wait to see your pics. Why did you use screws instead of the riveting? My next kit will likely be the Norris A6.
Hi Will
Yes, I am very happy with the result.
! used screws for three reasons:
First, I was a bit anxious about peining steel into brass on the sides - too easy to end up with a slightly 'fuzzy' looking job, too easy to miss and leave a hard to clean up ding!
Second, I wanted to be able to remove and modify the closed tote if necessary - it's not glued in place, just a tight fit and held with the 2 rear screws. That's also why I haven't peined in the lever cap pin, but rather made it removeable.
And third, because I prefer the appearance of brass screws sanded flush and polished - it's a more 'engineered' look.
Malcolm http://www.macpherson.co.nz
trying to attch photos - not having any luck!
Anyone else having trouble with attachments?
Given up! There are some photos and a description on-line at my web address (click below)
http://www.macpherson.co.nz
Edited 1/6/2006 5:12 pm ET by Malcolm
Edited 1/6/2006 9:09 pm ET by Malcolm
Nice work Mr. Mayor. The plane is beaut. Tell me do the holes in the fence do a good job. Is there any other dust control on the saw or is that it?Glad to see the finished plane after following the saga.cheers.Andy"It seemed like a good idea at the time"
Thanks
The holes in the fence (on my MiniMax Euro slider, visible at my web site) are vacuum ports, attached to my shop vac. I use it quite a lot when ripping thin strips with a Freud glue-line rip blade, can rip down to about 1/16th without losing the pieces into the dust extractor. There is also a dust extractor, attached to the saw's bottom port.
I'm well on with the Shepherd chariot plane. Didn't worry nearly as much about filing the dovetails and they've peined together perfectly! On with the infill. Customising this kit extensively - may even end up with a modified Norris adjuster.
Malcolmhttp://www.macpherson.co.nz
Malcolm
You did a great job on the smoother. I really like the looks of the screws! It looks like I'm gonna get roped into buying one of these kits. I hope you and Philip are ready to answer a lot of questions. LOL
Jeff
Thanks Jeff
Can't speak for Philip but I'm more than happy to answer questions!
Malcolm
Edit - general comment. If you, or anyone else, can do a competent woodworking job, you can assemble a Shepherd kit. To the question 'why would you', all I can say is that these are deeply satisfying objects, to make, use, own (and, one day, to pass on).
http://www.macpherson.co.nz
Edited 1/7/2006 3:26 pm ET by Malcolm
Malcolm you said that you posted your web site address or a link to it to view your pictures, but I search the entire thread and it doesn't show up anywhere that I can see. It might be a function of my Firefox browser, but I don't usually have problems with other links. Would you repost it again so I can look and drool with the others. Thanks.
Sorry - making too many assumptions - it's the link below my name
http://www.macpherson.co.nz, go to the Woodworks area on the home page and click on PLANEShttp://www.macpherson.co.nz
Sorry. My fault. It just dawned on me it's because I turned off the signature lines a while back. (Some get to be a bit much.)I just looked at the plane and you have a right to be proud.
Edited 1/7/2006 8:56 pm by QCInspector
Just a thought - if anyone would like higher resolution versions of the photos (why you would I don't know, maybe for future refence) email me at the web site and I'll email you copies. The on-line versions are low res.
Malcolmhttp://www.macpherson.co.nz
Malcolm, Very nice job on your plane, now that it's finally arrived. I especially like the screws, as opposed to rivets.
On your chariot plane, I really like the bronze bun...nice idea, and it looks great. You know, it's getting to be a bit of a toss-up here between you and Philip on who produces the most handsome planes.... :-)
(Seriously, both of you are doing really nice work!!) Off subject a bit, interesting web site. Refreshing to see another that's willing to confront controversial subjects head-on!! Good on you!! The world needs more of that, IMHO. Anyway, nice job; am glad that you finally got it and that it turned out so well!James
Thanks, comments much appreciated!
Philip does a much better techncal job than me - he's the real artisan, I'm still a learner!
'Handsome' is subjective!
On screws, you said "I especially like the screws, as opposed to rivets". One reason why these screws look OK is that they're really nice chromed brass machine-cut screws, bought as a job lot (literally a life-time supply) at a builders clearance sale in Britain 20 years ago. The slots are crisp, deep, and square-cut, and the screw heads are really clean.
You also said "I really like the bronze bun". Oops! on reflection, I didn't. This afternoon, and took to it with my angle grinder! The bronze bun has been truncated! Photos later today.
Cheers
Malcolmhttp://www.macpherson.co.nz
Jeff, "I hope you and Philip are ready to answer lots of questions"---- in due course I will be posting some pictures of plane making progress to date, so in the mean time I am chuffed to answer questions/share knowledge. Remember I am not a time -served tool maker, so tend to think outside of the box-which is usually a good thing I believe. There is an old toolmaker from the old school here who keeps asking me how I made this or that- and I'm always asking him the best way of doing this or that.... It's a good arrangement, because unlike many of these salty old dogs, he knows that cats can be skinned (well) in various ways.Philip Marcou
Philip (and anyone else thinking about building a classic Scottish smoother) here's the best example I've seen on the web.
Lovely shape, good size - and notice the screws!
Malcolm
Edited 1/9/2006 3:59 pm ET by Malcolm2
Malcolm, I read recently (somewhere I can't remember) that using screws on the sides is "what they did in Scotland"- said in a disparaging way.
I tend to think that this is another one of those items that are part of granma's horse feather quilt. I am familiar with the shrinkage refrain and can't buy it.Screws with a clean slot , well countersunk and ground flush are good looking. Gunsmiths use decorated screws to good effect, and there is no nonsense about shrinkage.
On the other hand , a perfect rivet in a dissimilar metal is also good looking. I would do either.Philip Marcou
Some builders sleeve the rivets to 'solve' the shrinkage problem - the sleeves act as spacers, keeping the sides a constant and fixed distance apart.
You'll notice (photo at http://www.macpherson.co.nz) that I've used both a rivet (through the bronze bun)and screws in my chariot plane.
Anyone interested, I'll have a dimensioned set of plans for the York-pitch Scottish smoother available tomorrow.
Malcolmhttp://www.macpherson.co.nz
It's the sleeve part that I don't buy. I think it is more practical and precise to use a shouldered pin-the ends are turned down to form the rivet and the shoulder length equals the inside width of the plane.No messing with tube material.Philip Marcou
" ... the ends are turned down to form the rivet and the shoulder length equals the inside width of the plane."
Yeah, but, this can't be done after assembly, right! Tubes can be fitted when shaping and fitting the infill.
Kingshott fits his lever caps this way, with a spring and an internal shoulder, but the cap is fitted after assembly.
My main argument for screwing is that I can remove the tote and reshape if necessary.
Malcolm
http://www.macpherson.co.nz
Philip
Everything that I have learned in woodworking, and in life, for that matter, has come from listening to those who have done what I want to do. I'm a good listener, and prefer to learn from someone who HAS done it, vs. someone who only talks about it, if you know what I mean.
I hope to have some free time later this year, so I can take the plunge into making my own infill smoother. Until I do have the time, I'll read what I can, and listen to you guys here. My retention properties are still with me, so I absorb like a sponge.
Jeff
I did the peining on the three that I have built. I did get a couple of nasty dings. On the third one I punched out a hole in a scraper and used it as a peining mask. I also changed hammers. My small hammer's peining surface came to a slight point rather then a smooth dome. It increased the amount of deflected strikes and the damage to the surrounding brass. I switched to a heavier smooth domed hammer and got better results.
I checked out the pics. and I agree that the look of the screws is great. Nice job!. I will be going over to Shepherd in a week or two to pick up my kit.
Will and Malcolm, I suggest the use of a drift punch to avoid any chance of dents caused by hammer mis- fires.
Use a hefty punch of about 8mm diameter, shape the end to a slight dome, and put a small chamfer on the circumference. It is better if it is smooth-like one would get from 400 grit belt grinder.So when you mis-hit it will be sore, the work will be saved and the brain trained. I use that to start the head looking mushroom shaped, then finish with 8 oz. hammer, which is only hitting on the middle, rather than trying to shape/spread the metal, which is when accidents can happen.
The punch is also good for moving the metal down for those double flair dovetails.
I have also decreased the diameter of my 8oz. b/pein hammer head by about 5mm- probably of more psychological use than anything, but there you go.Another very quick job on that belt grinder!
Just my tickeyworth.
P.S. After a bit one becomes bold-and by holding the punch about 3mm off the work, it works like a percussion hammer i.e it packs a mean punch for little effort.
P.P.S- This evening I made an idiotical mistake when shaping the bronze cap for #3-started to cut the cut-out under the screw ON THE WRONG SIDE i.e the top instead of the bottom.... Awaste of bronze! So, as basically things are still at research and development stage I experimented with a repair, by milling the sawcut to take an infill to be soldered in. If it still looks acceptable tomorrow I will not make another????(can post a pic if anyone is interested)Philip Marcou
Hi Malcolm
I am now (finally) close to the point where I have to decide on screws or cross pins. I also looked a other infills by other people. One thing that has made me nervous is peining the lever cap in place. I check the Holtey site and noticed that he uses screws. I have a few follow up questions for you.
Has your method of attaching the lever cap, a rounded and polished pin held by friction, worked as you hoped now that you have had the plane for a few months?
Is the lever cap removable if need be?
Do you have any advice or suggestions for me to follow for this method?
You said that you wanted to screw the rear tote into place, to make adjustments. Have you made changes?
Was it difficult to find screws to match the colour of the brass?
Any other advice about this would be appreciated.
Thanks for the inspiration.
Will Grahaw
> Has your method of attaching the lever cap, a rounded and polished pin held by friction, worked as you hoped now that you have had the plane for a few months? <
Yes, and I've also done the same with the 01 size smoother built since. It's been useful to be able to remove the lever cap. Until you get it installed and can screw it down hard to check that it aligns with the top of the chipbreaker, it is convenient to be able to remove it. Test this by looking down under the lever cap, with the plane pointing to a light source. You shouldn't be able to see any light showing between the lever cap and chipbreaker! If you can, you're more likely to get chatter when planing. Edit - fix this by filing/sanding the front of the lever cap so that it contacts the chipbreaker right across the width of the plane
> Is the lever cap removable <
Yes, and I've had both out several times. About now I'll smear a little epoxy on the pins, and semi-permanently fix them in place.
< Do you have any advice or suggestions <
If you're making a kit, the pin location will already be drilled? If not, mark out very carefully!
> You said that you wanted to screw the rear tote into place, to make adjustments. Have you made changes? <
No, and I fixed the rear totes of both my 01 smoother (and the big panel plane I almost finished last weekend) in place when final assembling. Next time I mix some epoxy I'll permanently fix the Shepherd tote in place.
> Was it difficult to find screws to match the colour of the brass? <
No, but that was probably just luck! However, I'm not sure that it really matters - the screws do tend to stand out, so a different colour (which won't be very different) doesn't matter.
> Any other advice about this would be appreciated <
I'm not sure how to advise you! Whether to screw or peen is up to you. It is the last significant piece of fabrication. Get it wrong and it's hard to recover! More difficult to recover from a screwing mistake, once the countersinks are in, you really can't recover!
Good luck - post a picture!
Malcolm
http://www.macpherson.co.nz
Edited 3/12/2006 11:51 pm ET by Malcolm
Thanks Malcolm
I decided to pein all the pins except the lever cap pin. I intend to use your ideas for the lever cap.
I checked out your web page and really like your work. The other planes you have made are not kits. How does the scratch built compare to the kit? The small plane 01 looks good. Did you use a set of plans or is this your own design? I want a joiner plane about 22" and just can't bring myself to pay for a kit, when I can pick up 2 or 3 LV planes on the way home from work for the same price.
I am begining to feel scatch building infills well be better. Just need some plans.
Will Graham
Will Graham
Hi Will
22 inches is BIG! I'm putting the finishing touches to an own-design 12 inch panel plane and that seems pretty big!
I design my own. The small smoother on my web page is designed to reflect the configuration of classical Scottish planes (a style I like), and I'm currently refining concept sketches for an improved palm plane, and an Art Deco smoother!
There are designs available. Kingshott has plans (well, dimensions) for a long jointer in his book. You could just copy a shape you liked (find one and trace the outline). Not hard.
Self-building (from scratch, as you say) is tougher. You have to find the metal, get the joints right, do all the infill shaping, and so on ... but it's more satisfying, and you get what you want!
Malcolm http://www.macpherson.co.nz
Malcolm, to polish that hard steel blade (and just about any other thing) I would use my very versatile home built Belt GRINDER- not belt sander. Have talked about this before-don't know what I would do without it. A 400 grit belt running on a soft contact wheel imparts a superb directional/matt finish. For fairing the edges just change to a rougher grit-like 220. For plane- making it is so useful.If you are interested I can post some pictures.
Now some questions on that Shepherd:-
Did you have to file the dovetails to get them to fit?
" " " " " the double flair?
How many mm's projection was allowed for peening-on the sole plate and on the sides?
How much clearance is there on the width compared to the blade width, and is there any blade locking means (a la Veritas).
When the cap screw is tight is it possible to adjust the blade?
What did you have to do to get the cap to bear on the blade properly, and what caused that problem in the first place?
The plane looks good in your pictures- you must be pleased.
There has been some slacking at this time of the year, but I will be starting #4 next week. I will post some details of #2 and #3 when the engraving is done-week after next.Philip Marcou
"... home built Belt GRINDER- not belt sander ... I can post some pictures..."
Yes please - have just spent a happy half hour shaping a lump of recycled bronze for the front bun of my little Shepherd kitset chariot plane (freehanding the angle grinder - great fun) and think I need something more!
"Smoother ... Did you have to file the dovetails to get them to fit ... the double flair"
Yes - the machined parts are laser-cut and very accurate, but two-dimensional only. I worried a bit about filing the compound dovetails, and almost worried myself into messing them up! I made up a 5 degree and a 15 degree guide, and fussed about getting everything 'watch-maker' precise ... in fact there's no need to be obsessive, peining can fill some pretty big gaps!
"How many mm's projection was allowed for peening-on the sole plate and on the sides?"
Shepherd's laser-cut parts allow generous metal for peining, shaped cleverly so that the corners move first and naturally lock the joints into place. I should have taken some photos. I'd guess at least 2mm? Seemed a lot.
"clearance ... compared to the blade width, and is there any blade locking means (a la Veritas)"
A bit more than 1mm either side, don't know what a blade locker is!
"When the cap screw is tight is it possible to adjust the blade?"
No - need to ease off the cap screw and then adjust the blade. A learned skill.
"What did you have to do to get the cap to bear on the blade properly, and what caused that problem in the first place"
The problem was that the head of the 'screw' that clamps the chip breaker to the blade, and that also engages in the Norris adjuster, was too 'high', and I couldn't get it under the cap and into the adjuster. I sliced off a couple of mm, and reformed the slot, and it now slides in nicely. This probably has something to do with Shepherd's recent problems with manufacturing adjusters!
I am very pleased with this tool. It looks very staunch, works marvellously, and has been very rewarding to make. I'm seriously thinking about a panel plane. My little chariot plane is going to be a wee wonder! I want to be a tool maker!
Malcolm
http://www.macpherson.co.nz
Edited 1/7/2006 12:50 am ET by Malcolm
Edited 1/7/2006 12:54 am ET by Malcolm
Malcolm, herewith some pics of belt grinder. The thing appears crude, but knowing that coated abrasive belts running at the right speeds (5000 plus sfm) are much more efficient at metal munching than solid grinding wheels, I made it to grind and profile knives at the time, hence the different sizes of contact wheels-from 10" down to one inch when the belt is run direct on the shaft-good for tight curves like plane handles and sides...A 2hp 3 phase motor drives it direct to the shaft or via a counter shaft or via the lower contact wheel. to get various speeds. The idler pulley does the tracking and it can be moved along the channel iron bed to take various belt sizes.
The pictures show some contact wheels and different set ups eg straight two wheel for rapid munching such as the rounding of the sole ends-no need to laboriously cut with bansaw or worse hacksaw and file-one merely scribes the curve and chomps it off on the 8" serrated contact wheel with platten and horizontal guide.I designed it to take a wide range of belt lengths, to run on two or three wheels and to have various plattens and tables. Makes short work of that bronze cap....
I also show my smaller bandsaw so you can see the means to get suitable speeds for wood, brass bronze ali ivory , and the blue gear box on the right slows it to 50fpm which is right for gauge plate. Not the greatest of bandsaws, but it has cast table and can take the tension required.
Also my Emco lathe with a small milling machine.
Itis a funny world-did all this sort of thing because machines and supplies were not readily available and one had to "make a plan"-then I come here and there is no demand to speak of....
Sorry , I can see that I have tried to explain too much all at once.Philip Marcou
Thanks for all that - I think I understand what all that running gear does! Would love to spend a couple of hours in your shop - pity you're so far away!
Just about messed up the little Shepherd chariot plane tonight! The kit is supplied with a pre-cut cocobolo ramp (at 20 degrees) and a tiny piece of roughly-cut wood for the front bun. Far too woosy! So, as outlined above, I got out my new angle grinder with a 1mm thick blade and chopped up a lump of bronze to replace the wooden bun.
Fun, if a bit tedious squaring it up by hand and fitting, but it's gone in well. Got a bit carried away shaping the front end around the bun, and had to drill out a brass rod and replace with steel - enlarging the hole a bit much while doing so! Peining very enthusiastically has recovered the position!
Will finish and post some pictures tomorrow (I hope).
Trouble is, Philip, we're going to be rebuilding the house and shop this year, and my nice new hand tools are going to be paper weights for most of 2006.
Malcolmhttp://www.macpherson.co.nz
DANG! You make Helical gears too!
<I want to be a tool maker!>I can see why. The Shepherd looks incredibly hefty and "in charge". Nice one, Malcolm!aloha, mike
Shimming - yes, agree, it would probably show as a fine gap between blade and bed, and from my trial work with the completed plane tonight (shimmering surfaces and wispy shavings from some nice old kauri) is unnecessary.
Mhttp://www.macpherson.co.nz
Malcolm
I'm happy that you are pleased with it, and can't wait to see the pictures! I'm also glad you ditched the idea of flattening the sole with a belt sander. Not a good idea! Doing it by hand is the best way, even if it's the slowest way.
Next time, you can make one with an adjustable mouth, and won't need to worry about the fit so much!! (Way beyond my league!) My metalworking skills end with the welder!(LOL) If it holds, I'm happy!
Happily jealous
Jeff
Hi Malcom,
Fantastic!
Glad to hear theis little adventure has had a happy ending. Can't wait to see it!
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled