I have recently received a couple of DVD’s from The WoodWorkers Guild of America. These are construction DVD’s, That I like very much. They are Similar To Norm’s but go into a little more detail.
In one of His chapters about tenoning, He was showing how to set up a Router with a set of tenoning cutters. This is my question, Where can I find this set of cutters? They are painted Bright orange. There are four blades, each with two carbide cutting tips ,with a good assortment of shims. The cutter blades are locked onto an arbor with two nuts. I would guess That is mounted to a variable speed 1/2 in. router collet. I do not know what the inside opening of the individual cutter blades are.
This System Seems like a foolproof way of cutting tenons. At least after set up the tenons will all be the same size.
Thanks, Clement
Replies
Bright orange sounds like CMT
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Clement,
Bruce is correct; the double cutter set is a CMT item. This must be used in a router table as using them freehand will cause a nasty snatch should you tip the router even the slightest amount. Also, use of a router table allows you to make multiple passes without changing the bearings, as you use the fence, gradually moving it back until it is in line with the router bit bearing. This will usually give a better finish, if you also ensure the following pitfals are avoided ...........
The cutter isn't foolproof in that you must ensure the gap between the cutters is exactly the same as the thickness of your tenon (i.e. the width of your mortise) when setting up. Also, you must ensure that any offset of the mortise from the show face is identical to the shoulder depth cut, when making the tenon. If the shoulders either side of the tenon are not the same depth, it is easy to end up cutting one or more pieces upside down, with the consequent misalignment of the two pieces forming the show side of the joint.
It makes life easy if you use some form of cross cut sled on the router table to keep long work pieces square to the cutter. You will almost certainly waggle the workpiece if you try to cut it's end freehand on the router table.
It's also important to ensure the work piece is held flat to the table throughout the cut, as even the slightest raise-up will cause a too-thin tenon and possibly also the dreaded snatch-and-chew. Use of a hold down mounted on the fence above the cutter is usually a good technique to ensure correct pasage of the work piece through the cutter.
Finally, it keeps the tear out at bay if you employ a backing piece behind the workpiece, so the break out occurs on that rather than at the end of your nice tenon and its shoulder.
If you're careful and make test cuts on some identically-sized scap pieces, all will be well. The process is somewhat time-consum,ng and prone to error, though, in my experience. These days I either cut M&Ts by hand or revert to the wonderous woodrat, which easily makes very nice tenons indeed.
Lataxe
As Lataxe said. When I use those types of bits that make tongues or tenons. My preferred method of cutting them is with my Delta sliding shaper jig. The base is Steel and heavy and I have extra hold down clamps to keep the piece staying in a flat plain.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
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