A customer was steam ironing her tablecloths on her 60″ dining room table, and wants me to remove the iron and steam imprints.
These imprints are not black, such as moisture in the wood, nor solid white, such as moisture in the finish. More an opaque discoloration clearly visible when using raking light from the windows (lots of windows, about 200 degrees, big dining room!).
The table is from Pier 1 Imports, made of a teak like wood, I assume from SE Asia. The top is veneered onto an “MDF” type base,with a layer of unsanded veneer underneath. The construction of the top and base precludes easy disassembly for transport to my shop.
I will mask the MDF and apron the base. Has anyone had experience with stripping this type veneer-will the glue hold? Any cleaning ideas (she says she tried “lots of stuff”)?
I do not believe I can get an even surface if I sand-not good experience in the past.
Any thoughts/inputs will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Pete
Replies
I've stripped and refinished a lot of veneered tables, old ones and not so old ones. I use semi-paste type strippers and have never had a problem with lifting veneer. I have had trouble refinishing with lacquer due to silicone products having been used on the table. I'd recommend a fish eye reducer if using lacquer. You may want to include an ironing board in the fix it price!
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
I have also refinished many table tops with off the shelf semi-paste stripper, with no veneer raising problems.
However, I haven't done one imported from SE Asia, and am wondering about the quality of their glues. Cheap labor and wood they have in abundance, but their construction techniques and quality control leave something to be desired.
As far as fish eye, definetly will be a problem. I usually seal with shellac.
Thanks again!
Pete
Pete,
Try wiping the top with naptha. I had a similar problem and that solved it.
Good luck, Tom.
Tom,
Thanks!
I'll try naptha.
Pete
I have some teak furnture. It is also veneer over mdf base. There is no triditional finish. The teak has a natural oil and the finish is just a wipe on oil product that you reapply when it starts to look dry. I don't rember the name of the oil, it is a watery milky white liquid. I bought a bottle with my desk several years ago. It is available at stores like Danish Impressions who sell the teak funture. May be as easy as a very light sanding the reapplying the oil. Ill look up the name when I get home and update this post.
Thanks!
I look forward to getting the oil's name.
Pete
Sorry it took so long to answer, I was out of the oil so I went over to the store to get some more. The product I use is just called Clean and Feed. They also have Teak oil and I ask about fixing a mark like you described. They told me very light sanding and then use the Teak oil. Hope this helps.
Thank you again!
I will try your suggestions prior to stripping.
I have a feeling the moisture from the iron is in the finish (there is a finish of some sort on the piece), and I will end up stripping the top. The customer also wants the new finish to be "a little shinier"-it now is satin, semi-gloss will do the trick.
The real problem probably will be getting the topcoat evenly sprayed-no spray overlaplaps. Those windows give an exaggerated raking light, and any imperfection will be readily apparent.
Pete
I think it's kind of important to understand what kind of finish you're dealing with. If it is just an oil finish, then it's likely that the iron just discolored the oil and a light sanding or steel wooling with oil will bring it back as Y1RET indicates. There are a variety of oils marked as "teak oil", but I dont' know that they're any different than Watco or any of the other drying oil finishes. I'd strip as a last resort 'cause that could open a whole new bag of worms.
Thanks!
I will try several methods prior to stripping, but do believe I will have to take the finish off.
Pete
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