Replies

1. 
   VeniciaL | Jan 01, 2004 12:21am | #1

   Jeff,

   You've hit on one of the several disadvantages of the contractors saw construction. However, most of the saw dust DOES go downward, not out the back. Most of it is thrown off the blade just as the teeth come out under the saw table. Are you actually getting much dust out the back, or are you just concerned that you will?

   I have never seen aftermarket devices for "closing up" the back. There are such products for catching dust under the saw. I have cut plastic shields to fit around the belt and motor mount to minimize the dust that escapes that way. I have one now that just I just shove upwards until it wedges in place.

   VL

2. 
   Dustmight | Jan 01, 2004 12:38am | #2

   Most CS owners concerned with DC seal off the back with some panels similar to what you described. I've never seen an aftermarket option, but it took me less than an hour using 1/8" panels. I've also heard of people using sign board.

3. 
   johnnyinbda | Jan 01, 2004 02:28am | #3

   Try this link, I have not seen it but it might work.

   http://www.thesawshop.com/boot.shtml 

4. 
   HowardAcheson | Jan 01, 2004 04:33am | #4

   You can do as you say and seal off the back.  I used corrugated cardboard intending that it be a template for masonite.  But, it's been on their 10 years or more just working fine.  It's held on with duct tape so I can just remove it when I need to miter rip.  Also, stuff closed cell insulation--the stuff used to seal around window air conditioners--in the space between the bottom of the tabletop and the upper edges of the sawbox.

   Finally, don't expect real good results with a shop vac.  They just do not have enough CFM to capture the dust well.  Even the worst small, real dust collector will be 100% better.

1. 
   Biscardi | Jan 01, 2004 05:47am | #5

   You can buy sheets of the flexible magnetic stuff they make refrigerator magnets out of. I have played with the idea of using some of this to cover all the vacum loosing holes in the saw cabinet. Has anyone tried this?

   Frank

2. 
   jobranch | Jan 01, 2004 08:08pm | #6

   Howie,

   Thanks for your message.  I am well aware that a shop vac isn't powerful enough.  I plan to add full dust collection system this year.  But for now the shop vac is all I have.  Thanks for the post.

   Jeff

1. 
   forestgirl | Jan 01, 2004 09:54pm | #7

   I use a big shop vac on my Jet contractor saw and it works pretty well underneath.  If you get some area sealed off, you'll do OK with the shop vac.  However, as noted, the stuff that comes off the front of the blade above the table is a real pain.  A dust mask is in order.forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

1. 
   jobranch | Jan 02, 2004 03:14am | #8

   Thanks for the message.  I have been thinking about making a support for a utility nozzle for my shop vac to place in the area of the blade above the table surface and abandoning the dust port on the bottom of the saw.

2. 
   CharlieP | Jan 02, 2004 06:04am | #9

   Watch out when you go to full dust collection.  Those systems count on a high volume of airflow, and if you seal things too much, you will block the airflow, and get worse dust collection. 

   I put the dust collector in the bottom of my contractor saw, with the back still open, and get pretty good results.  I had planned to close the back, and let the crank openings provide the make-up air, but I get enough flow into the back of the saw that I haven't bothered to seal things.  In fact, when I start to saw, if a cloud of dust comes out, it is the reminder to start the dust collector.  But as soon as the dust collector starts, the cloud of dust reverses and goes into the saw and dust collector. 

   Similarly the hood on my Radial Arm Saw isn't very good, so if I cut fast, the dust billows out, then over the next few seconds, reverses and is sucked into the collector. 

   So I guess my rambling suggestion is to not seal things too well. 

5. 
   TomFerreira | Jan 02, 2004 10:14pm | #10

   Jeff,

   Here's what I did for this. Don't seal all the holes as you want air to flow into the base.

   TDF

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=13714.5

   
   

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   Edited 1/2/2004 2:17:35 PM ET by Tom Ferreira

6. 
   biosf1 | Jan 03, 2004 05:43am | #11

   Don't know your saw is configured , But I have a old sears on a metal stand and built a funnel like drop box, used 1/4 '' melamine and put a 4'' dust hose connector I pick up at the local ww suppler and ended up doing the same thing to my Fathers Jet saw, that only had a flat plastic piece with a 4'' hose connector, Got broke from a piece of wood that the blade caught. But seal the joints with silicon caulk.