All,
Last year I bought a pretty decent table saw blade for my 10″ table saw. Since then I’ve worked pretty much with Cherry and Poplar. I have finished 6 or 7 furniture projects since then.
This weekend I ripped a dozen 8ft long 8/4 and 10/4 rough cherry timbers. It was about all that my Craftsman table saw could handle. Admittedly, it is a little light for the projects that I tend to do. It took 3 – 4 minutes to rip each board. Seemed slow.
I’m starting a major new project and wondering when I know that my saw blade is too dull to keep using. It feels like I’m forcing the wood into the blade. The saw also did overheat on me a few times and tripped out.
So how do I know when the blade is dull?
Thanks,
Bob
Replies
Bob ,
Usually the kerfs will not be as clean and some burning may occur when the blade is dull . Using an under powered TS will not add to the quality of the cut as well as create more burns from the increased friction of a bogged down machine and a slower feed rate .
Thanks.
I have been getting more burning than I'd like. But the Cherry smells good.
The cuts look OK but then I joint or plane the piece so I get away with a semi-dull blade.
Bob
If you've got a capable shop near you, they can sharpen your blade for you or advise you if it needs to be replaced.
Bob,
First, clean the blade and make sure your saw's fence and splitter are properly lined up, since problems in either area will cause the problems you describe and they will not be solved by a new blade.
If this is the blade that came with the saw, then it probably isn't nearly of the quality of a Freud, Rigid, or Forrest blade, so it very well may be dull or warped and due for replacement.
Also, for ripping hardwoods as thick as you are working with, especially on a lightweight saw, it is worth investing in a rip blade which is much more efficient than a combination blade for heavy rip sawing.
John W.
OK John. I'm getting it now.
I used a finish blade to do a rip job. Dumb dumb dumb dumb dumb. I just didn't think about it. I'm new to woodworking. The blade does appear to be fairly clean, although I can reinspect it and clean it. The blade probably doesn't need to be sharpened.
Here's another question. When I ripped the 10/4, as the kerf fot 1 foot PAST the blade I inserted a small screwdriver to keep the kerf open (no splitter on my table. It just seemed like the thing to do. I think I saw an old man do that when I was a kid. It now makes perfect sense to me. This rough beam could have easily closed up on the blade. The screwdriver stayed wedged in the kerf until the piece was nearly in two.
Thanks for the great advice and causing me to think.
Bob
If that screwdriver falls onto the spinning blade, you're not going to enjoy the game of darts that ensues.
Oh so right Vulcan.
I stuck it in the end NOT on top where it could roll or bounce back into the blade.
I have tremendous respect and some healthy fear of sharp, rotating machinery.
But I had to keep the kerf open. I could have used a wood shimm in retrospect. Note to self.
The good Lord was watching out for me.
Bob
Bob,
How are you sticking a screwdriver in the cut as you are pushing the board through? You are not reaching over the spinning blade are you?
B.O.B.
I was reaching AROUND the blade with my left hand never getting closer to it than a foot. The table on my table saw is rather small so I could hold the work piece with my right hand and reach around with my left. It probably isn't recommended but I didn't have any other option.
Did I?
Bob
You could get an aftermarket splitter. There is a plastic one that sticks into your table saw insert, about 25 bucks, can't remember the manufacturer right now. You need to drill two holes in your insert. Beats the heck out of reaching around. Got good reviews too. Maybe someone can help with the name. If I remember, I'll send you the link.
bobtexas,
Your going to give us all a heart attack...stop!!!! why do you need to keep the kerf open? are you saying the piece to the left of the blade is closing up(ie. moving to the right)? what do you think will happen if the wood on the right side of the blade moves away from the fense...kickback....and all the while you've got the right hand on the stock, the left hand on the off piece...and your body straddling the spining blade??...ah gees...
I guess that I didn't know a better way to make a big long cut like that.
The 10/4 was 10" wide and 8 feet long. I supported it with rollers at both ends. I must have weighed 45 or 50 lbs. I was ripping 2 1/2" off the left side of it. So, about 8 inches was between the blade and the fence on the right.
I'm self taught and I don't know a better way to make a big cut like that. Is there one?
There was no way that my small Craftsman TS was going to throw a 10/4 x 10" x 8ft. Is there?
Thanks and sorry about the near heartattack.
Bob
bobtexas,
Regardless of the size/power of the table saw safe practices are required and need to be practiced every time. I'm sure almost all would agree here they try to rip or crosscut wood the same way everytime...position the body, the hands, etc. in the same place..so they know in advance where everything is and it safe.
Perhaps the first question is do you need 8'long pieces...have you made all he cross cuts first? Second, is the stock perfectly flat? It's not easy to find stock that wide and flat. The point of these questions is have you mitigated the risk by taking appropriate preparatory steps.
When ripping, always try to keep your body to the right of the fense. This can be accomplished by using a splitter, push shoe and feather board. Some would put the 2.5" side between the blade and fense so that if the wood has not been properly dried and reacts it is the smaller piece that is getting traped.
There are lots of tapes on safe sawing practices, perhaps your local library might have one. I'm sorry is it sounds like I'm preaching, its just so many have come on here and told some terrible horror stories...don't want any more.
BG,
You mention keeping your body to the right of the fence. I'm not disagreeing with you, but I have heard that right or left is fine, as long as you're out of the "red zone" where kickback might occur. I stand to the left of the cut. I do this because I can get a better starting position, where I can push the workpiece against the fence. Especially for wider boards, I can sort of push at a diagonal towards the fence and forward.If I'm doing something wrong, I welcome criticism!
Edited 10/12/2005 6:54 am ET by MatthewSchenker
Matt,
Staying out of the 'zone' is the most important aspect, however, the right side of the fense is a bit more safe...wood catching the back of the blade can ride up and spin to the left...as in 1/4" plywood...damhikt.
I agree with you on the pushing angle from the left...but a feather board would negate that need.
I made a short rip fense but have not tried that yet.PS. I'm preaching here..doesn't mean I'm not a sinner still...lol
Edited 10/12/2005 7:51 am ET by BG
I learned the hard way recently about staying out of "the zone." Wasn't ripping or crosscutting. I was using my tenoning jig and was merely flipping the piece ( 3/4 X 1 X12 inches) end-for-end when it slipped from my hands and hit the blade. It shot straight into my pelvis, missing my right nad by a millimeter, but it felt like a direct hit. Still was feeling it 30 minutes later. Safety glasses have saved my eyes at least twice, but I've never heard of anyone recommending a cup as standard safety equipment in the shop.
Adam
Dear BG and Others,
Thanks for the great advice. In the two long rips, I did have to cut the long direction because the pieces needed to be long. The final rip could have been a series of cross cuts but I was already set up so I ran it. That durned heavy board kept getting lighter so I felt safer about feeding it thru.
I will definitely check out the local library about videos on table saw safety. I am self taught in woodworking and a one man show. I recently acquired a DeWalt planner and am going to use it this weekend BUT FIRST I'M GOING TO MAKE SURE I USE IT SAFELY.
I do like your thoughts about mitigating risks. I do believe that for every safe way that there is to do a machining operation there can be an even SAFER way to do the same thing.
My TS is a left tilt blade and I stand LEFT and push at a diagonal against the fence. I remember reading an article about NOT having the OFFCUT between the blade and the fence. This is something that a good safety video can clear up.
I am very good about hearing and dust protection and most things safety. I'm just a little inexperienced. I am making a 9 ft Cherry dining room table and the lumber requires so much machining when you buy large rough stock.
Thanks again guys. I'll attach a photo as soon as I can. I have real motivation on this one. My family is eating off this table at Thanksgiving and it doesn't exist YET.
Bob
Sounds like a good excuse to buy a band saw. I built furniture doing most of my ripping on a table saw for over 10 years. I got a band saw two years ago, and now do most of my ripping on that. It is unbeliveable how much faster it is than a table saw especially on the thick stuff, like 1.5 inches and over.
The advantanges of the band saw are a smaller kerf, around 1/16 inch, rather than the 1/8th inch for the table saw. After the cut on the band saw, the cut face of the board will need to be cleaned up with a pass through the jointer, or with a hand plane. However, the reason I am really and advocate for ripping on the band saw is no kickbacks.
Bingo Oakman.
My nextdoor neighbor is going to "loan" me his bandsaw this weekend. I am quite sure that it will be safer than my TS. I just don't own one. I started WW 2 years ago and have been collecting tools and just have not got to a BS yet.
Learning woodworking is tough. It's tougher when you are on a tight budget. And tougher yet when you are limited to a few beginner tools.
But it's the results that matter (assuming safety is not compromised).
My best safety tools are (1) my brain and (2) my patience.
Bob
The first board you cut with a new sharp blade will show you how dull the old one really was.
Lots of good advice here Bob.
Back to the first issue. Do clean the blade (try spraying on some grease cutter, after you've taken it out of the saw - or just dunk it in hot water with some dish-washing detergent and scrub with a kitchen brush). Test the cutting edges with your thumb. Feel a bit dull? Compare to some sharp carbide. If yes, take/send your blade to a sharpening service, or better still, invest in a really good (Freud, Forrest, TrYu etc) blade.
Malcolmhttp://www.macpherson.co.nz
This sounds way too contorted a position to be in while running the table saw!I have heard good things about the Micro Jig splitter/featherboard system. There is a regular and thin=kerf version. Sounds like it would be a better option than a screwdriver!Here's the link:
http://www.microjig.com/
Edited 10/12/2005 6:46 am ET by MatthewSchenker
Thats the one! Thanks Matt, the MicroJig is exactly what I was trying to tell Bob about. Bob, you can also do a Google search for table saw splitters and you will get plenty of sites.
Don't feel bad, there are plenty of us who still don't use a splitter, I for one must get one, but please think safety first.
Bob
When I have a rip closing up on me, I use a door shim to hold the cut open as it passes through the blade. Metal objects (screwdrivers, nails, etc) can leave a mark on the board.
Do you have a bandsaw? I rip all my long boards overe 4/4 on the bandsaw - - very carefully - - then run them throught the jointer.
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