I am going to make a 48″ x 24″ x 24″ blanket chest for a customer. She wants a cushion on the top, with a lip surround to keep it in place when lifting the lid. She wants to be able to have guests place their suitcases on the cushion, and to be able to be used for a bench to put on shoes, sit on, etc.
Here is the problem: How can I strengthen the plywood top to keep it from sagging when someone sits on it? I plan on rabbiting the plywood into the surrounding “lip”, screws and glue. But, even assuming the lid is down on the box when someone sits on it, that is a wide expanse of unsupported plywood. I am thinking about a center divider (front to back) but this will require 2 cushions instead of one, probably more $.
Thanks to all in advance!
Pete
Replies
Pete,
Why not put the center support underneath the top? It will provide rigidity to the top and still allow you to use one cushion.
Jim
You could also make it a frame and panel.
2 or even 3 panels would work.
F.
PCM,
I'd just divide the top into 2, 3 or 4 panels of plywood surrounded by hard wood, M&T the joints and make everything flush.
I'd do this frame & panel, with two panels (center divider, front to back). I've done this for window seats and it works fine. If you're concerned about sagging, use 3/4" ply with a 1/4" T&G construction and make the frame out of 4/4 stock.
Here's one under construction. Not quite as wide as 24" (about 18" IIRC), but you'll ge the idea.
View Image
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Nice work.. I love the window grills and your surrounding work.
You could glue and scerw a couple of 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 48" strips of wood underneath the top to provide a rib 1-/1/2" high. This will give you plenty of strength. (1" or 1-1/4" may also be acceptable.
Thank you all!
The customer has agreed to reduce the width to 18", and I will use cleats from front to back, under the top.
Mike Hennessey, my wife saw your pic and has her tape measure out. Nice work!
Pete
Thanks. Sorry I don't have one in the finished condition handy. Well, actually, it's still not finished -- waiting for My Lovely Assistant to put together the stained glass for the doors on the top cabs.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
and I will use cleats from front to back, under the top
And then again you could use a sliding dovetailed cleat and just glue at one end..
Nothing protruding...
That crossed my mind! We have a true six board chest, 48 x 24 x 24 in the living room, and it has 2 sliding dovetail cleats on the bottom of the top! Very small dovetail pins all around, perfectly executed. One of our prize acquisitions.
That said, this chest I am going to make is to be paint grade, as simple and cheap as I can make it. I'm going to use pre-cut rattiatta pine boards from the big box, plywood bottom. The only fly in the ointment is my wife volunteered to the customer that she will paint it to match some pieces from Pottery Barn/Target.
Thanks!
Pete
No sure about paint being a problem with a sliding dovetail cleat. I would doubt it. Maybe enamel would crack at the long seams? Maybe after painting, slit the paint film along the seam, with a razor. OR maybe tell the customer that 'real' wood expands and contracts?
I should have said that I plan on using plywood for the top, surrounded by a solid wood "lip" to hold the cushion in, so I will use cleats screwed onto the top bottom.
I also intend to leave the inside of the box (including the top bottom) natural, to illuminate the box contents.
Pete
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