Replies

1. 
   peter28 | Dec 10, 2008 05:09pm | #1

   What lacquer did you use? With a little care catalyzed lacquers are pretty durable. How may coats did you apply? This is just my own curiosity.

   Unfortunately, I can't give you an answer from an experience stand point as I don't use water based lacquers. Maybe I should at some point.

   Try asking a question in the Knots section to Rob Millard. I know he has switched to water lacquers and reports that he likes the results. It is on furniture as far as I know and not cabinets, but he will be able to tell you from experience the working properties. Also take a look at the furniture he builds, it's beautiful.

   Good luck.

   Peter

1. 
   GrandpaJimmy | Dec 10, 2008 09:36pm | #2

   Thanks for your reply. I use a catalyzed clear lacquer from Rudd Co. in Seattle, satin finish. I thin it 10% with lacquer thinner. I spray one coat to seal/raise the grain, sand (220) typically next day, then two to three coats, one right after the other. Flat surfaces are fine, some difficulty with overspray doing inside edges of frame-and-panel doors, inside corners of shelving units. I find that water left on a horizontal surface, particularly these inside panel edges, damages the surface, leaving a white blemish. Generally, my sense is that the finish will not tolerate water sitting on it for some time, as can easily happen in a kitchen. I have a spot on top of a small desk in a reqion that was particularly easy to cover well.I would love to know what I am doing wrong. I think my general spray technique is reasonably good, but I have not mastered this process. I would be willing to do my current project with lacquer if I could understand how to secure a better result.I'll follow up on your lead re water-based lacquer spraying.]Thanks again

1. 
   peter28 | Dec 11, 2008 05:11pm | #3

   Concerning your lacquer; I would suggest you use a vinyl sealer first. Apply a wet coat and sand when dry. Proceed with your lacquer coats as required. With this schedule you will have better over all water resistance with the finish. When you spray your coatings it is advisable to "box coat" it. Spray a coat with the grain and then against it (perpendicular). This will give you a full wet coat.

   Inside edges are always difficult. When complete you can rub the over spray smooth with an Abralon pad. If you are not familiar with them they are available at Woodworkers Supply, Homestead Finishing Products to name a couple. They are a micro mesh pad that comes in a variety of grits up to 4000. A 500 grit for a dull rub or a 1000 grit will make short work of that over spray. 

   I don't quite understand how you have standing water on panel edges.

   The other product to consider is a conversion varnish. It is a definitive step up in hardness from precat lacquer. You need the proper facility to spray this or lacquers.

    Years ago, I finished a round mahogany table with precat, let it cure well and then rubbed and polished the surface. I took it to a show, poured water on the surface and then put a vase of flowers on it. It sat like that for hours at a time without detriment. I'm not saying this is a good practice but it showed the water resistance of the finish.

   Peter

2. 
   Mrdunker | Dec 18, 2008 03:34pm | #4

   I used M.L. Campbell water borne clear lacquer and paint...called ultrastar(?), and refinished all of our oak frame and panel kitchen cabinets 3 years ago and I could not be happier. Extremely durable and easy to clean. I used a Fuji Hvlp system and it worked great!