My dad gave me 2 ~30 year old craftsman spray guns (you know the aluminum kind with the screw on canister).
Just wondering the volume (CFM) you need to run one of these with lacquer, urethanes etc… I don’t own a canister type compressor so I want to size it right.
Lots of “deals” on ebay for 2 gallon .7 cfm Campbell Hausfield compressors – will that be enough?
Thanks,
Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
Replies
Not even close. A compressor that small is meant for nail guns. I have a 4hp (peak) 30 gal receiver Devilbis compressor, I can't recall the cfm but it keeps up with my Binks Model 95 gun fairly well with lacquer, shellac, and Enduro W/B. You're going to have to part with some serious bucks for a compressor to utilize a couple of old very questionable quality spray guns. My suggestion is to evaluate your need for a big compressor beyond spraying. If spraying is the extent of your needs then consider an HVLP/Turbine set-up. If you really need a compressor then an HVLP conversion gun would be worth considering. Conversion guns originally were air hogs, but some of the newer ones are much more air efficient. Any HVLP gun will eventually pay for itself in material transfer efficiency. When I can justify it I will be buying an Accuspray HVLP. Search this topic and you'll find volumes right here at Knots.
If you go with a compressor DO NOT buy an oil-less. They are incredibly noisy POS's and I can't wait for mine to die so I can replace it. If you don't go oil-less you will need a good filter/regulator for spraying.
John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
The more things change ...
We trained hard, but it seemed that every time we were beginning to form up into teams, we would be reorganized. I was to learn later in life that we tend to meet any new situation by reorganizing; and a wonderful method it can be for creating the illusion of progress while producing confusion, inefficiency, and demoralization.
Petronious Arbiter, 210 BC
Re: Enduro WB products - I don't know if you've tried their WB pore filler, but it's far superior to any other pore filler I've used. Great stuff!-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
I haven't, but thanks for the tip.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
The more things change ...
We trained hard, but it seemed that every time we were beginning to form up into teams, we would be reorganized. I was to learn later in life that we tend to meet any new situation by reorganizing; and a wonderful method it can be for creating the illusion of progress while producing confusion, inefficiency, and demoralization.
Petronious Arbiter, 210 BC
And why do you think all of those deals are on E-Bay for CH compressors? When something is available cheap and in large quanities, it raises a red flag! Too good to be true usually is. For spraying you can't beat HVLP. Saved enough on materials on first two jobs to pay for turbine and gun.
Short answer, they are factory refurbs.
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
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Its not enough compressor but if you have a reciever tank it will hold enough air to probably get you through until you can upgrade you system(s). Your guns determine the amount of air that you will need. The air cap (outside piece) and fluid cap with needle make up the entire air demand. Small needle/aircap/fluid cap (.08) require the least amount of air and may work OK. Good luck, Aloha, Mike
The funny thing is when my dad used them (long ago) he hooked them up to a really old and noisy compressor (no tank). The unit was pretty small. It was his fathers. THe old machine had a ~1/2" hose and I think it came out of a gas station (my grandpa owned one for years) and it was really loud...Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
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Hey Mark, Buy a good gun, whatever system you choose buy the best. I use noncompliant guns (http://www.anestiwata.com/) which means they are older style siphon feed. I use them at the lowest air pressure I can for shooting woodwork and cabinets but when I need a large fan pattern I can turn them up air and needle wise and shoot the side of a bus if I want to. I use a VX707 from Iwata but know lots of guys who have gone to either turbine (for noncatalyzed material) or HVLP for catalyzed. Take the time to learn about it and you will upgrade your equipment to the highest need you have. That said, you can do quite well using any system by learning its quirks and adjusting. Your bleeder type gun pressurized its cup and drove the paint in that manner which is not the best way to shoot anything. Even an older siphon gun can work well as long as the tips are clean (use no wire in the holes, solvent only) and the packing nuts are sealing well. Good luck with it and feel free to ask if you need advice. Aloha, Mike
Thanks Mike.I beginning to think my guns are the "siphon" type. I'll post some pics and you can be the judge.Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
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The "free" spray guns...Can Anybody tell me what type they are by looking?Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
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They are ornery low pressure guns -bleeders in both senses of the word. If by any chance you put more than 50psi into these the bottoms go convex...... Why are you bothering with these?They are good for blowing kerosene etc onto greasy engines etc. or for blasting stain onto big areas..... Sorry, Mark, I have just seen that they were from your Dad- just keep them then and get something better. I use gravity feed types more than any other-just more convenient and eassier to clean.
Edited 6/5/2005 1:57 am ET by mookaroid
Try looking at a site called "spraygunworld". They have many options and are pretty candid regarding air comsumption.Service is hit and miss but the prices are good. I bought a Devilbiss Finishline 3 from them. Took some tweaking with the air cap to get the results I'm after but it sprays great now with a 21 gallon Harbor Freight special.I would get at least 30 gallon "real" compressor if I had it do over again. When I upgrade it will be at least a 60. Compressor cycles quite a bit doing cabinets with the HF. But I'm happy with the gun, nice soft spray. Although I think I could have gotten an even less expensive alternative but went with the name brand.Good luck.
Adastra, what kind of tweaking did you have to do with the FL3? Could you be more specific? I bought one of these guns but haven't used it yet.
I've only sprayed shellac, solvent lacquer, and Target USL. Had to switch to a 1.3mm tip. 1.5 for solvent lac. Pressure at compressor is 70, at gun its 15. Large diameter hose and HVLP fittings thoughout. I don't have hard lines so more flow loss with hose. Currently have 75' run of hose which isn't ideal but workable. Keep hose as short as you can for your needs.This is what works for me to keep the overspray down. Turn up gun pressure a touch for better atomization. My finishes flow and level pretty nice so I run as low of a pressure as I can.
Adastra,
I also have the Devilbiss Finishline III and hated it at first, but after some practice and finding all the tricks, I love this gun. The best is using the liners inside the gun (Zip lock bags), means no mess, changing from one finish to the next with no cleaning and a 3 minute clean-up when you are done. You can spray upsidedown, or hold the gun at any angle, makes no difference.
We seem to head in different directions though, for Lacquer and Shellac (1 1/2 lb. cut) I set the pressure at the compressor at 30 psi and around 15 at the gun as I find their standard regulator does not handle a large pressure differential that well.
What are you using to regulate pressure at the gun?
Its a cheapie regulator, no name. I'll experiment a bit more next spray job I have. Might be good to drop the line pressure since you have had good results with it.With a long hose I get a little balloon effect in that the pressure drops as the hose relaxes. Maybe 30 lbs would lessen this. Or a better diaphram type regulator at the gun?I switched from a airless setup so there has been a learning curve, but I really like the HVLP. I'll try those bags, spraying upside down would be nice as well as the clean-up savings.Thanks,
Since my spray guns are "ebay fodder" any experience with the Critter spray gun? (http://www.crittersprayproducts.com/)Again, my plan is for lacquer, urethanes, dyes. Nothing heavy. (Trying to be frugal as well.)Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
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Yikes!
Lacquer is extremely easy to spray. If efficiency and VOC's is not a problem and this is once in a while only, you will be better off with a $30 spray gun from Home Depot, or something similar from Grizzly. You can thin down and get away with a pancake compressor.
"(Trying to be frugal as well.)"
Mark,
I sympathize with you. But I would recommend that you not go that cheap on your spray gun. Porter Cable makes a nice gravity feed HVLP gun for about $80. It's not high end but it will do a nice job. At one time they sold it with a compressor.
I've gone through several cheap guns and even have one of the same guns your dad gave you. All were a waste of money. I would get so frustrated trying to get them to do an even pattern and not spatter. They are all in a box waitng for the next yard sale.
Take a look at http://www.gleempaint.com they have several conversion guns. I own the Wagner Spray Tech which I can spray almost anything. I have a Speedaire 30 gallon oil compressor and it keeps up just fine.
Hope this helps.Hi, I'm Len and I'm a Toolaholic...
Len,
Thanks for being frank.I took a look at the "gleem" site and saw the Wagner HPLV conversion gun.The write up was pretty postive and the price is not outrageous ($130).The Spray Tech you use looks to be way out of my budget however. (If I'm looking at the right gun).Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
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I have the Spray Tech conversion gun. Not the full blown HVLP system. It's a great gun. I use a pressure pot as well.
Good hunting.Hi, I'm Len and I'm a Toolaholic...
Thanks for all the tips. I hate to reinvent the wheel.
Mark, those guns sound to me to be 'bleeder' spray guns
Only worked on really diluted paint but requied just 35-40 psi.
For shellac lacquer etc etc, you'll need siphon type and 90 psi The bigger the tank, the more working time before the pressure drops too low to keep up. Stein
How can you tell the difference between a bleeder and a siphon?
These have a tube that extends down into the paint supply.
Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
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Mark,A bleeder type expels air, even if you don't pull the trigger Bleeding prevents buildup of too much pressure (which can burst the gun.)
The siphon on the other hand,is a more professional gun which (although requiring more pressure), does not 'bleed' any air. A professional gun can be minutely adjusted to alter the spray pattern, the feed rate, and has the non cloging features needed for more viscous paintIt also minimizes overspray which wastes paint and requires much extra maskingI/m sure many other s more knowledgable than me will direct you to links to help you decide on compressors. SteinTry this link http://www.gleempaint.com/hvcongun.html
Edited 6/3/2005 5:27 pm ET by steinmetzEdited 6/3/2005 5:36 pm ET by steinmetz
Edited 6/3/2005 5:42 pm ET by steinmetz
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