Anyone come across an aftermarket supplier of sleeves for spindles sanders? I have the delta boss and delta does not offer any kind of discounted quantity packages. Thanks.
Don
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Replies
Have you tried Klingspor's? I can't get through to their web site this morning Yes I Can, http://www.woodworkingshop.com but I have their paper catalog. They sell the sleeves in pckgs of 5 at what looks like a significant savings over the regular price for Boss replacements. 1-800-228-0000
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 10/3/2002 12:05:26 PM ET by forest_girl
Edited 10/3/2002 12:12:07 PM ET by forest_girl
Don,
I dug through my catalogues and couldn't find anything! Grizzly sells them in two-packs, but that's hardly bulk. Hope FG's link helps. If you have a chance look at Woodworkers Supply. They have a really nice adaptor plate used to mount your sander under a table for stationary use. Probably quite simple to make, but I thought it was a great idea.
Jeff
FG,
Fantastic, thank you very much. Their sleeves are almost 50% of Delta's. Have you used them before? They don't seem to have a bulk price, but the savings is substantial.
Jeff, Hadn't sen that but it does sound interesting. This is one of those tools where location changes often. Thanks.
Don
Don,
Klingspor is a GREAT outfit to deal with. Great prices, great service, nice people.
ps I have no affiliation with them.
Rich
I have limited use of Klingspor, and have been happy, went to them on recommendation of a number of more experienced WWers than I. When you get their catalog, take a good look. They have some very specialized papers, and also economy bulk-buys.
As far as bulk discounts go, if 'twere me, I'd give 'em a call, find a supervisor and see what kind of deal I could swing. If you're wanting 50 or 100 of each, seems like they might give you an additional discount.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Rich,
That's good to know. I value polite people and quality service.
FG,
I'll order the catalog and give them a call. I have a lot of supplies I could measure in years of use, and it doesn't bother me at all. Thanks again.
Don
Klingspor's i mahvelous, darling! I used to have an oddball-sized pneumatic drum for which they custom-made some sleeves for me at no upcharge. The first time they were too loose, so they remade them for free and didn't even want the others returned, which i ended up salvaging by wrapping the drum in an old sock before mounting the sleeve. I can't imagine buying boxes of 4x24 belts anywhere else--a buck apiece, and the quality is superb.
And i just love those North Carolina accents...and they always ask how the weather is.
Hi Splintie! Question for ya: I was looking through Klingspor's catalog last night, and spotted their Klingspor "Gold" sanding belts (in this instance, 6" x 48"). If you've used these, what's your considered opnion?
I used to have a NC accent, alas living in Calif. took that away.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Sorry, jamie, i've haven't used the gold belts. At three times the cost of the excellent premium belts, they'd really have to be something...still, i might get curious the next time i order. I usually place orders for a year's worth of supply in January after i see how my last year went.
If you ever need to grind something into submission, get rid of a body, etc., i can vouch for their blue "planer" belts, which i used on some gnarly box top panels that were too short to send through the drum sander. Lost some fingernails on that one!
I had a renter from NC, not a bad poet, always late with his rent bec when he commenced speaking, i quit thinking. Talk about mixing business with pleasure...
I've had my eye on those planer belts -- seem like a great idea for some situations.
Now that I have you engaged in conversation...what types of "activities" do you use a belt/disc combo sander for the most? I ask because mine came with only one belt (though I have quite a few of the discs), so I should order some others. But not knowing what the (two) sanders are most appropriately used for, I'm not sure which grits to buy. Also, with your input, I could maybe not make as many lumber-eating mistakes as I would otherwise. Thanks!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Jamie: I think it would be most helpful to you to read your complete Book of Power Tools, theres a chapter in there on Belt and Disc sanders,thus giving you a better idea of how to get the most use and enjoyment out of your new sanding units..
Take Care.. ToolDoc
Way ahead of you Doc -- did that yesterday. Still interesting in hearing from Splinti.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Hi, Jamie. Settle in, cuppa joe...
I use the belt much more than the disc bec i usually don't need any arc'd scratches in my work. On the belt, i hand-hold all kinds of work to take them to their finished surface before spraying, though i have to knock sharp corners off by hand, or increasingly, on my new flap sander from Grizzly. The list of what i use the belt side for is huge...here's a mini-epistle on the subject: Boxes: i sand all the sides with the belt in the horizontal positon, then cut off the tops, and come back to do the top (with panel), cut surfaces, and bottom. I typically go from 50>80>120>150. Sides are done at this point, but i ROS to 220 on the top panel. I put a "smiley" indentation in the front under the lid to make it easier to open--this grinded out on the idler wheel with the guard removed. The belt sander leaves sharp edges that need further attention, of course.Crib boards: flat end, endgrain, is done with the table attached, vertical position. I remove the table, do the flat surfaces with the platen horizontal, then "swish" the previously routed long edges with an arcing motion across the belt.Barrettes: done on the table in upright position to about 150 gr., then they go to balloon and flap sanders to get the edges softened. I clamp an aux. table tight to the belt to guarantee no fingers get sucked in on these small pieces.Sculpture bases: depending on their shape, mostly irregular, i dress the band-sawed edges on either table, and using the front idler/tensioner drum on the belt to get the concave parts. I finish with balloon and/or orbital sanding, and hand sanding the routed edge.Jewelry chests, 8x18x8, i can still glide the sides over the 6" wide belt, but i also orbital sand these box sides to 220 (i do three coats of lacquer, so this is sufficient). I pre-finish the top panel before i glue it in and protect it with tape, but i do just about every other surface--drawers, dividers, trays, handles--using the belt. I have a signature chevron formed by routing a 45º chamfer over a key in the miter--i rout just shy of where it needs to lie exactly, get down on my knees next to the sander and get it to perfect on the belt--gently, gently. I also sand all the 1/8" thick divider strips (they fit together with lap joints to make the grids inside the trays) on the belt--very easy to sneak up on the perfect hundredth of an inch this way. Cutting boards: I made a vertical "table" that attaches with three bolts in place of the factory table. I sand the cutting board edges with the vertical guide keeping them perpendicular to the belt. I adjust the tracking on the belt so i don't wear only one strip.Crib pegs: I make my own crib pegs of 1/8" brazing rod. On the belt, i freehand a chamfer where the burr was from the wavy-tooth bandsaw blade on these 1" pieces.I sharpen lots o' stuff from chisels/drills to axes/lawnmower blades. I've also had good success with dressing up my tile and slate cuts, though i tend to use the disc for that more, not sure why. I haven't been brave enough to try sanding glass yet, but i can't wait to hear how i would kill myself and four bystanders if i do, lol!
The hardest part of running a sander is getting used to the tracking mechanism on the belt...all the ones i've used seen somewhat tempermental. I have to give mine a whack when i change belts or the sawdust build up inhibits the tensioning drum from seating properly. The second hardest part is keeping the disc on when it should stay on and getting it off when you need to change it. I heat the disc with my paint remover gun when i want to change it. The rest of the time i spend ducking it when it flies off. I got a nearly new, but torn 48" belt one time from a plywood place and it's been providng all my needs for 80 grit discs for some time now, attached with spray adhesive appplied to both surfaces.
Klingspor has a "buy 5-get a 10% discount" deal. Try the grits i mentioned and get an extra 120, since these wear out more quickly than the coarser grits and the 150 is mostly for burnishing. That will give you some idea, anyway, of what works for your products. I use one of those belt cleaner rubber sticks, esp when doing oily stuff like paduak, or want to follow a colorful wood with a light one. I don't know if Klinspor sells the graphite pads for these,but you can get a yard long piece from Industrial Abrasives for less than $4--i use these on all belt sanders, stationary and hand held. Belts stay a lot cooler, last longer, and the motor runs cooler, too. A tip for getting thin work onto the platen: drift it on from the side with NO downward pressure; you can hold big, flat pieces with one finger on the coarsest grit until you apply downward pressure, but make darn sure you have control of it when you put pressure on. If something starts to get away from you, let it fly; don't try to catch it once the belt snags it. I ground four fingernails entirely to flesh from the top side of one hand from grabbing for a crib board.
Whew!
Splintie, you're a Champ! Thanks for all the detailed information!! I will heed your warning about "letting it fly" if something starts off on its own, as I prefer to pass on the manicure. Klingspor offers graphite rolls in 3,4,and 6" widths, 1yd. long. So, if I understand correctly, the graphite goes on the platen underneath the sanding belt?
I use the cleaning sticks on my ROS and those rare occasions when I use my little belt sander. It does work great.
You've given me inspiration and confidence that this auction buy I've made is going to pay for itself many times over in labor savings. I thought perhaps it was for fairly crude sanding efforts, but it sounds like it will be much more versatile than expected!
I must ask, where might I go to see some of your work (should I get over to the Far East sometime soon)? Do you have any shows coming up?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
The cgraphite is attached to a canvas back, no idea how, now that i think about it. Anyway, spray glue the platen (mask for overspray), spray the canvas (good coat; it will absorb), let dry to tacky. Carefully lay the canvas on the platen since it can wrinkle with little provocation, and gently pat it in place. Then put a paper bag over it and really mush it down. The graphite with shed for a little bit, so break it in for a minute or so with wood you don't care much for. If any sheds after that, it is easily sanded off like a pencil mark.
See my work at "Artwood", 1000 Harris, when you go to B-ham. Only a dozen or so items there right now, but i'll have them fully stocked for T-G weekend. I dont' have any shows scheduled for the coast for this season, but i may be over Seattle-way the first w/e of Nov. If i can get a critter-sitter for a few days and the work is ready, i may drive it up in person. Interested?
Splintie,
Do you have a website, or is your work shown on a gallery's site?
Rich
I've had a website designed for a year, but haven't gotten enough work done ahead to dare show it. I'm getting some new work together (small tables) for a little local gallery show next month, so i'll post them in our Gallery when they're done. Here's a cutting board and a jewelry chest (koa and yellowheart) i did this year:
NICE !
Like the design on the cutting board and the way you handled the joints on the box lid. Also the contrast.......
sarge..jt
Ah, shucks, Sarge.... <blush, shuffle>
Thanks.
The cutting board design is a little over the top for me. Like the box. But you didn't ask for my opinion. Very nice work. Oil/varnish finish?
Rich
Over the top...
Yes, not at all like the stuff i actually own. Most of that is in the Deco/Waterfall style--the more peculiar the hardware, the better, but not a Southwest thing in the bunch. I stumbled on the "Navajo rug" look by accident one night, cutting apart and glueing up lazy susans at random a few years ago. It proved a good seller so now it's one of my mainstay looks; since i started it, i've been asked to do dining, end and coffee tables in that style. I used to get some nested table bases from a smith in WA whose work was excellent; the style goes well with wrought iron, but it got way too heavy to carry around.
Yellowheart has proven to be a very poor seller as a major portion of a piece, but a great accent wood in small quantities. I picked that chest to post bec i of the figured koa in the panel.
I use lacquer, sprayed, on everything i make save the cutting boards. It is one part Deft, and 2-3 parts of whatever else is avialable. I used to get another lacquer i really liked called WKI in 5-gal drums, but lost my local source and didn't want to deal with the shipping stuff. Then i was using Hyplex by Columbia paint. Laterly, after putting some Parkes brand polyurethane on a floor, i was so impressed i tried their laquer. HD carries it at greatly reduced cost over the others, so i'm still experimenting with proportions and adding thinner so that i don't get as much overspray. This isn't a problem on flat surfaces, but it's not so good when i'm spraying sculpture bases.
Cutting boards get linseed oil, scrubbed in with W&D sandpaper.
Way to hijack a thread, eh?
Hey Splintie...for the ultimate in graphite products go to http://www.proengcorp.com
Rick
Thanks, Rick. I've bookmarked it for when i need to buy more, since they show one type (#303) that is a non-flaker. That's the only drawback to the stuff.
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