Replies

1. 
   woodman2263 | Jan 11, 2008 04:58am | #1

   Oh God Fred, here we go!!!!!!!!!!  Tighten your seatbelt.

2. 
   mvflaim | Jan 11, 2008 05:08am | #2

   If you're new to hand tools buy a Stanley No 4 off Ebay for a few bucks. Once you become familiar with it, then you can decide if a bevel up plane is worth it for you. Bevel up planes work well on tough unruly grain but when you run into a piece with tough grain (like birdseye maple) you may end up just using a random orbital sander anyway. Others will disagree with me as you will see when this thread reaches 49 posts tomorrow. If you would like to try bevel up planes, buy a low angle block plane and play with it. You'll need a block plane anyway.

    

3. 
   saschafer | Jan 11, 2008 05:08am | #3

   Yes, you should get either a regular smoother or a bevel-up smoother.

   I recently purchased a Lee Valley bevel-up smoother, which I like very much.

   -Steve

    

4. 
   JeffHeath | Jan 11, 2008 09:45am | #4

   Fred

   I own both, and they are all nice.  They each perform their jobs as they were designed to. 

   Bevel down, or traditional smoothers are more common (at least older ones), and the frog (metal planes) or the pitch of the infill (woodies, and infills) can have varying degrees of referencing the blade to the sole of the plane.  45° planes are the standard.  As you increase the angle, the tool becomes better at smoothing out tougher grained woods, like curly maple, and many exotic species from far away lands, like New Zealand.  You'll find them from 45° up to 60°.  The higher the angle, the more difficult the plane is to push.

   With bevel up planes, you can alter the same geometry of the blade vs. sole by simply grinding a secondary bevel on the iron.  You can buy one plane, and have 3 or 4 different irons, all with different secondary bevels, to be used with varying degree's of tough grained wood.

   If you do a site search, you should be able to find discussions, and even a few good donnybrooks, completely covering the pro's and con's of each.

   Try one of each, and see which one you like better.

   Like I said, I couldn't decide, so I have a several of both.

   Jeff

1. 
   Lataxe | Jan 11, 2008 12:56pm | #5

   Jeff,

   Good straightforward advice you offer there - as you have in the past and on the basis of which I have proceeded with one or two of my own purchases.

   Perhaps I may remark that BU planes are generally engineered a little more simply (less parts, such as that chip breaker) and that the LV versions have those useful grub screws to prevent the blade moving laterally.

   Also, although I have now got to grips with doing the back bevel on BD plane blades, I still find it easier to manage the BU blades which need only the bevelling on one side of the blade. 

   Lataxe

   PS There is also the consideration of the lower angle of the blades within the BU plane body.  Does this make it more efficient or resilient in transmitting the push of the user than does a blade within a BD plane where that blade is angled more steeply upwards?  I don't know but often wonder if anyone has investigated this aspect of difference between BU / BD and found any meaningful data.

   Edited 1/11/2008 5:01 am ET by Lataxe

1. 
   JeffHeath | Jan 11, 2008 08:16pm | #6

   Lataxe

   I think that a 55° bevel down smoother, and a bevel up smoother with the proper secondary bevel to equal 55° are about the same to push, assuming both planes weigh the same.  I may not be the proper case study for that, as I am taller than most, and I weigh 250 lbs.  I spent too much time in the weight room as a young man trying to prolong my hockey career!  :)

   I think that it will simply become a personal choice as to which type an individual would be drawn to.  My first planes were all bevel down, traditional planes.  I was introduced to bevel up planes by Jeff Miller, author of Chairmaking and an outstanding craftsman.  He showed me what a l/a jack with different secondary bevels could do on some super gnarly grained wood, and I was hooked.

   I can't wait to get my hands on one of Philip's creations.  All my money presently gets divided between my daughter's University and my son's hockey travels.

   Jeff

5. 
   Madbeaver | Jan 11, 2008 08:50pm | #7

   Hello Fred.

   I am new to this woodworking. Here is my thinking and so far I am happy, I start with a smiple bench plane about $30 at a antique store. It weights is 4 pound I bleve this is a old smoothing plan:)  I spent part of day bringing it back working which in include sharping.

   If I wanted a "high end" plane for dilicult wood it would be Lee Valley bevel up plane.  I like the way it is build and the cost is more for me. As a plus with that plan system I think you can get muti blades for each angle wanted, keeping cost down.

    

   Chris Pond

   Summerland BC

   Canada

1. 
   danfromsaskatoon | Jan 12, 2008 05:55am | #8

   LV bu smoother verrrrry nice, reasonably priced

1. 
   xmike | Jan 12, 2008 10:29pm | #9

   "LV bu smoother verrrrry nice, reasonably priced"

   Verrrrrry true.

   Mike D