Replies

1. 
   RickL | Dec 23, 2005 05:38pm | #1

   There is no such dedicated magazine.  Do a search on amazon books and you will find a lot of books.

1. 
   Bailey | Dec 25, 2005 05:27am | #2

   Thank you. I will.

1. 
   Radish54 | Dec 27, 2005 11:34pm | #3

   Bailey-

   Doug Stowe is a master of small box work, and has several books out. There is a recent addition to his published work in the Complete Guide series. Here is a link http://www.taunton.com/store/pages/070721.asp.

   I have a Incra Ultra jig on a homemade router table. Although there is a learning curve involved, getting one of the videos is a great way to help get over the hump. There are some absolutely beautiful joinery options available using this jig that utilize contrasting woods to make half-blind dovetail joints that look impossible to make (if you don't know the trick).

   Good luck, and have fun...

1. 
   John_D | Dec 28, 2005 12:37am | #4

   I've never seen how those Incra DT's are done, but I always figured it's done by doing the DT twice.  So if you've got a maple box and want a walnut contrast line, you join the maple side to a walnut board, then cut off the maple flush.  This leaves a maple side with a walnut end.  For a Leigh jig, I guess you open up each guide finger a little left and right, then do a standard joint to your maple front.

   Is that close, or is there more to it?  Maybe you just switch to a different bushing/bit, leaving the fingers alone?My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.

1. 
   Radish54 | Dec 28, 2005 05:20pm | #5

   John-Yup, the trick is that you (using the templates on the Incra jig) make a block with sliding dovetails that match the pins on the main board, then cut back the slid-on portion to flush on the face of the boards, then to 3/16ths proud of the pins. Another series of through cuts between the original pins yields the inlay-look. Lastly a series of half-blinds are cut to accommodate the newly created pins. All perfectly repeatable, and ideally centered across the width of the boards.Really hard wood, like maple sometimes is challenging - running five sliding dovetails together sometimes breaks the board across it's end grain. Usually you make enough of those slider boards to make up for the loss (you still end up with 4 pieces that fit and glue up). Softer woods like mahogany, spanish cedar, etc. seem to work better. Pretty easy, usually - except for the ham-handed factor (<knows from experience).
   You can't force the joint together or slide the doves together much off square as you advance without causing a fracture.