Hi every one,
I am in the process of finishing a piece that I would like to sign. I did a search and was reading old threads on the topic. I like the idea of a simple pen signature. I tried a sharpie, which was fine but when I applied polyurethane I found that the signature blurred. Has anyone found a pen that will not run or am I going about it the wrong way?
I wouldn’t mind pencil either. I also experimented with a coat of poly then the signature then another coat. Not nuts about the results.
Any advice?
Webby
Replies
Eh... I brand my work. Partially because it's easy to do and won't run, partially because my handwriting is horrendous.
I got one of those personalized brands I heat with a torch... Maybe cost me $50...
Tom's Workbench
http://tomsworkbench.com
I also brand my work. I have used a sharpie before with Poly. It worked fine if I applied a light spray poly sealer coat over the sharpie marking before a brush coat, or wipe on poly.
I'd advise against a sharpie or any felt-tip pen I know of because they bleach out in less than a month if exposed to sunlight. To me that means they'll bleach out (to nothing!) in a year in ordinary light or if exposed to light at all over time.
I've used a wood burning "pen" but it doesn't look very professional. I've also printed out labels with the computer, trimmed them to size (small!), glued them in some inconspicuous place and then varnished over them to preserve the paper.
I'm jealous of those who have branding irons, darn it. Maybe for my birthday.
Pete
Thanks for the feedback, I am looking at the irons and still experimenting with the pen.Webby
Mostly I use an electrically heated brand, but if the piece is special, it doesn't take more than 15 or 20 minutes go over a written signature with a sharp carving tool and incise the signature. It also looks as if you really cared. One can also carve the recipient's name and the date!
Tom
Tom,
That's a great idea carving it! Mind if I borrow it?
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
I'm delighted that you like the idea. Go ahead!
Tom
Webby,
A branding iron is a simple solution. However every time you use it you will get the exact same impression. While this may be what you are after, I prefer to have each piece signed with the DATE. I use a wood-burning system. My penmanship is not outstanding, but I can make it look very nice when I try. Each signature is a little different, making each a little more personalized, I feel. For small projects (tool handles, small boxes) I use a set of letter stamps to emboss my initials and date.
Chris @ flairwoodworks
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
I just use a cheap burning tool with a skew tip to sign my work. It takes some practice to get the kind of control to do a good job. It is hard to do good curving lines, so I have found that if I use a modified cuneiform lettering it is easier.
Back around 1980 I was into, or my work was very Japanese influenced, so my signature sort of developed a conji look.
I can't imagine using a branding iron, because there is a certain size and place that I feel that the signature and date belong, and since this is a changing requirement this just means it must be done individually.
Also I and I am sure others use the date as part of the tracking number when keeping up with work in shows etc. Sometime I may abbreviate the month, but the month number can be substituted for simplifying the number system.
Here is a link to a site which shows how I signed and dated this desk.
http://www.cctaylorgallery.com/index.php?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=2
I think the top is Nov 30 2004, with KNewton on down under that.
Keith
beautiful work, thanks for the link to showcase your wwing.
Thanks Jeff and Michael. Philip, If you are using a pin to sign something that will be deleted when the finish is removed, that could mean a huge drop in value of the work by loosing its provenance. Mel, I do often sign my work on the front, but I don't think I will take the chance of the portrait idea. I am finishing up a project that I just signed on the front. It is a fireplace surround, which has lots of details that I have been using for years. It has two columns which support a pediment at the top. The columns have a vertical reveal, with some dentil details coming out of it up at the crown. I worked the signature into that dentil on one side and the date on the other. I will try to post some shots of the detail later. It has a few things that I think some of you might like, and which might make a good article for this magazine. I have one cutter that I use to make numerous molding with. I used it for a 4.5" crown, a 2.25" panel mold, and for the base trim.
Keith , I don't use a pen for the visible signature/nameplate although I do like to handwrite things in places which may be discovered at a later date.
Normally I use an inset engraved brass disc-which could be removed I suppose. That is why I like the idea of some sort of carved symbol done in a discreet place on the piece. Trouble is, my carving is worse than my drawing.Philip Marcou
Edited 2/21/2008 10:50 pm by philip
You are very talented, and I really enjoyed looking at your art.
Keith,
Beautiful work and an interesting signature. I think that you should iron your back drop though. Just kidding! (Don't you keep an iron in your shop? )Chris @ flairwoodworks
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
How bout a branding iron signature, then using a Forstner bit, sink a brand new shiny copper penny with this year's date???
The cost of minting copper pennies for this purpose would be prohibitive.
I thought he said he wanted to use a pen?? (,)
Webby, try using shellac sealer instead of the poly- I think it mat prevent the problem you mention.
For a really professional signature on a nice piece of furniture, there is nothing like laser etching of the portrait of the maker. I have noticed that clothing and accessories are signed by the maker in large letters right on the front. Their signature is the decoration. Great idea. Look at Gucci. Look at Nike and the swoosh. If furniture makers take a hint from them, our signatures will be right there in the middle of the raised panel on the front, and it will be at least four inches high.MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot.
I like to inlay a small piece of timber in a diamond shape and then sign the inlay. I only use Natural finishes so I have never had a problem with smudges. And I always put this inlay in a place that is not seen under normal viewing.
Kaleo
http://www.kaleosworkshop.com
Hi Webby, I have had the same problem. I like the idea of my signature in a dark pencil with the date.I also write the species used too. Simple and dignified but the poly did blur it. Have you tried a coat of poly First and then signing your work? I haven't, but will try it on scrap and let you know. There is also the problem of dark woods when you need to use something lighter to place your mark.
Don't like the brands really. Just me. I've heard of folks inlaying items in their work such as a coin with the year etc but, so far, haven't heard of anything I like better then my signature and date in dark pencil.
I also ran a thread on the subject a couple years ago but nothing more then what you got came up.
Sure would like to hear more suggestions.
If you have a good ink jet printer with stable ink, you can use the iron on transfer paper in it, and iron on a graphic, then seal it.
One of the places I used to work had a wax printer. It did a great job.
Hello Webby,
I have a stamp that i use to mark all my work with.
Use a good type of ink
The stamp was made to my design.
One thing i realised later was that i should have used a different colours of ink every year so that the furniture is dated by it.
Greetings Bernhard
Thanks again everyone. One thing I haven't tried is a shellac spray. I am still experimenting. I am trying a very ight spray first to seal the pen or pencil then other coats.
I looked at the irons but I like others want some more flexibility in size and text options.Webby
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