I am building a 12×24 shop in west TN. For ease of construction and heating and cooling efficiency I want to limit the number of openings. I expect to have a 4′ door and an 8000BTU AC in a 16″x24″ opening. I will have air filtration and dust collection systems in place. Should I include something like an attic fan for general air circulation? That’ll be a couple of good sized holes in the gables. I expect to insulate the walls with R11 and the roof with R19. Will what I gain in air circulation be too much of a compromise in energy efficiency with a gable fan and shutter?
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Replies
I was just wondering how you were going to get that six foot boat out through the four foot opening. Just in case ------, you might want to match that door with another well insulated four footer that would swing against it just so a larger piece could be moved out if necessary. If you have sufficient heating and cooling, I don't see why you would put in an attic fan. If it were left on much it would remove all your heating or cooling. A wall fan that could be sealed off from the elements for all but those special times when the air needed to be exchanged might be helpful. On my shop, I haven't provided for such air evacuation but when I get to building stuff I might have to change that.
Edited 6/8/2008 12:50 am ET by Tinkerer3
An "ocassional" door is a good idea, but I'm already committed to a sliding door. (I've bought the hardware) The extra fan I could use when I wasn't running the AC or the heater, which might be fairly often during milder weather.
""occasional" door"
Not trying to push you, but one sliding door against another would work just as well as one swinging door against another. Of course, you must have enough room on the wall to support the rails that the sliding door slides on.
Where do you live? We have about one week in the spring between too cold and too hot and a little more than that in the fall. Two weeks ago it was too cold and today it is too warm in the shop. urggh!
Current "best practice" includes the attic in the conditioned space. That is, you put your air sealing and insulation at the top of the attic, directly under the roof, rather than in the ceiling between the attic and the occupied space. Obviously, you don't want to vent your attic when you do it that way.
-Steve
Yeah, my "attic" will be part of the conditioned space. With no windows, I was trying to plan for some circulation during spring and fall weather.
TNNWWO8,
you mention 'air filtration' and 'dust collection' however you did not specify size units. Regardless, assuming your shop has 10'ceilings the volume of air is about 3000 cubic feet (12x24x10). Your dust collection alone will move that air in about 3-5 minutes..more than adequate air movement and some filtering. A small fan as Tinkerer suggest might be nice. I'd push to 30 in the ceiling insulation if I could.
I did finally realize the air filter will be turning the air over several times an hour. My skills and experience level with some tools is limited, but I've been puttering around long enough to know I'll be spending time in the shop not working on much of anything except lowering stress levels. I'm trying to plan for those days when a pleasant, if slightly noisy, breeze would be welcome.To get R30 with conventional insulation I'd need 2x12 rafters with a 2x12 ridge beam. Those are a little large for me to handle. I'm doing this job alone. I can accommodate a wider comfort zone in the shop than in the house. I doesn't get THAT cold here.
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