I am in the process of designing my final shop. I will be retiring into woodworking full time.
I read Anatole Burking article on Shop Flooring Solutions, do I really need anti fatigue mats on a wood floor?
In the past I swore to have a wooden floor for comfort any suggestions as to what to use that is inexpensive, comfortable and durable?
I’m located in central Texas so heating is not as big an issue as cooling for 3 months a year
I will also be using the floor for laying out projects.
Replies
What will the floor be resting on, a concrete slab?
If so, I think Anatole covered that application but just in case:
Cover the slab with 6 mil poly. Lay down 2" x 4" sleepers 2' or 16" on center. Infill between sleepers with 1½" of stiff styrofoam then lay ¾" T&G plywood on top, good side up.
Simple, inexpensive, easy to do and comfortable. I put no finish on mine and the natural wear and tear leaves a nice patina that isn't slippery. The stains and dings will bring back fond memories.
Oh yeah, I'll be doing the same thing soon (retiring to woodworking that is).
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 5/15/2008 11:30 am ET by KiddervilleAcres
That's what I did to the slab in my converted garage shop. One of the best things I've ever done to that shop -- made all the difference in the world.
This sounds like a good fix, but i'm a little concerned with the vapor barrier on top of a slab. With visqueen below the slab i would think you have trapped moisture?
I just Googled visqueen and there's a bunch of products I see so am not sure which one you have applied. If you already have an effective moisture barrier in place then you may be able to eliminate the poly.
That being the case perhaps 15# flooring felt might be in order as a substitute for the poly. The felt helps to soften small irregularities that may exist in/on the slab.
I might also suggest taking a look on the NOFMA Website for info. on laying wood flooring on concrete slabs. When you get there click on Publications and enter install in the search box. You can then download the .PDF file that describes the steps/process. Many flooring professionals use their guidelines.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
In addition to being kind to your feet and knees the soft matt's on the floor keep you from swearing to loudly when you drop a just sharpened chisel. On the concrete floor they chip.
Troy
I've been doing alot of research on this subject. Many people are skipping the sleepers and just put 2" XPS (extruded stryro) directly on the floor. Current wisdom is to NOT use a vapor barrier as this may lead to mold down the line. The floor needs to be water resistant, but not vapor proof apparently.
I have an added twist with my floor. It has sagged badly in a few areas, up to 2" between footings. The footings haven't moved however. The floor is heavily reinforced with re-bar. It is NOT coming out. I have just completed an experiment where I took the 2" XPS, shimmed it level and sprayed PU foam underneath. Then I put on a piece of 3/4 ply with glue and a weight to hold it down. My test area was 24"x48". My drill press now sits level! I was really shocked by how solid this is. I am 240 lbs, and I can jump on it and it feels more rigid than my hardwood floors upstairs. Almost as rigid as concrete! There is no perceptible movement.
I haven't used any screws as I really don't want to drill into the concrete floor, but we'll see after 6 months goes by. I'm also going to apply this technique as a level, anti-vibration platform for our new hi-speed clothes washer. It vibrates alot when it gets even a bit out of level.
I heartily agree with an insulated wood floor in the shop. Of course your first project could be custom fabricated hardwood strip flooring on top!
"Current wisdom is to NOT use a vapor barrier as this may lead to mold down the line. The floor needs to be water resistant, but not vapor proof apparently."
It makes sense to use a vapor barrier underneath a concrete slab, and most slabs poured within the last several years are done that way. I've always thought that using a vapor barrier on top of a concrete slab was a little iffy--the concrete doesn't care, but if there's any wood or other such stuff that's in "moisture communication" with the concrete, you could have a problem.
-Steve
I have seen problems when they started installing engineered flooring on house slabs. They would put down a vapor barrier on top then apply the flooring.
The flooring was removed a couple of yrs later due to a remodel and the mold that grew!! Trapping moisture is not good for anything except in a coors bottle.
That's why I used pt 2x's for the sleepers. My first step was to cover the entire slab with Grace Ice-n-Water shield, then the pt sleepers, then the 1 1/2" blueboard between the sleepers, then 6mil poly over that, and finally 3/4" Advantech. Don't think I'll get any mold, but if I do -- I don't care! I am warm and dry. If I do get mold, it'll be trapped below a layer of Ice-n-Water shield and can't migrate up into the wood.
I just finished converting my detached garage in to a full time dedicated shop. I used "dry-core" panels for the flooring. You can get them at any of the big box retailers. There are multiple advantages to this flooring. The panels are 2' x 2' square panels with a molded plastic bottom glued to oriented strand board with a tongue and groove in it. The board then has a poly coating on it. The plastic bottom is covered in a series of small star patterns which hold the panel up off the actual floor which provides an insulating factor, a moisture barrier and a slight cushion effect. Because of the space if the floor ever gets wet underneath, the water can move around without ever touching the wood and the air allows it to dry without mold or mildew. You can also by packs of shims if leveling is needed. The coating on top allows for easy clean up but still is not too slippery. The panels just fit together to make a tight fit. The other advantage is if you ever need to move the floor or a portion gets damaged you can just replace individual panels. They sell for $5.99 a piece. It has worked out great for me. Good luck
I know of someone who has a rather large cabinet shop with rebar reinforced concrete thats cracked. He also has a shop building at his home with high strength fiberglass reinforced concrete without a single fracture. Might I mention its in the 6,000 sqft range! well worth the money in my mind thats what Ill use from now on. GOOD LUCK!!
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