Shimming Greaves 20″ Jointer
I’m acquiring a Greaves & Klusman 20″ jointer that runs very smoothly but doesn’t yield a flat surface on the stock. Since the infeed and outfeed tables slide horizontally on the supporting triangular sections, there are two possible shimming places for each table. Has anyone seen any reference material that might apply to this design, or just reference material on shimming older jointer tables? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Check out Old Woodworking Machines site and forum starting at http://www.owwm.com. Step one is to determine what is out of alignment.
As Pete has said, I am sure you can find help at OWWM-try them.
I have not heard of this type of machine, but it sounds like good stuff from what you describe-any chance of some pictures?Philip Marcou
P.S I have just Googled that name and there is quite a lot of stuff there-have you tried-you may even get an operators manual there, as there are people who get hold of obscure publications and sell them. An operators manual for my Browne and Sharpe surface grinder is available like that- the bloody thing is close to 70years old....
Edited 4/20/2007 10:37 pm by philip
You should shim a jointer only after you have determined that it needs shimming.
Your problem could be much simpler, dull knives or an outfeed table set too high or too low. It could also be more complicated, such as dished or warped tables or the machine being twisted because it isn't standing properly. You need to identify the cause before you decide on the fix.
John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine
Would your use and care book talk me through the process? I haven't been able to get over to Woodcraft to look for a copy today.
My book would take you through the procedure for testing your machine, but it may not cover shimming the table supports used on your jointer, but you should be able to work that out once you know what needs to be adjusted.
I cannot see how you made the determination that the table needs shimming from your description. As John pointed out there are several things that could cause that. It could also be a dip in the table to cause that, but first you need to checkk the knives, how the machine is level and if the outfeed table is set properly. You should put freshly sharpend knives in to start this whole process or you are wasting time. Not doing the first step properly nullifies the rest of the process.
It The "only" real way to verify that is to have a machined straight edge to check the tables and it must at least 2/3 the length of the overall machine. I have a 6' Starrett when I work on jointers. A feeler gauge will tell give a measurement of how much to shim. Typically I only shim on the outfeed if needed. This is a dovetailed ways jointer. Twist is a whole different matter and would require grinding the tables intact on the base.
Thanks Rick, John, and the others who have provided feedback. To all, I oversimplified somewhat the situation by saying the jointer needed shimming. I had only a couple days to decide if I wanted to buy this beast and figured shimming would probably be the worst it might require. The prior owner simply said it wouldn't leave a flat surface on the stock. I bought it today, although we probably won't move it for a couple months. I'd like to start reading on the process to rehab old jointers and any recommended books, web sites et cetera would be greatly appreciated. I did lay a 6 foot level from the end of the outfeed table as far as it would reach back the infeed table - touching all along the outfeed table, and the far end touching on the infeed table, but the end of the infeed table at the cutterhead was almost 1/4" below the level. I understand this doesn't tell me if the tables are twisted, but it sure looks like the tables are not parallel. I hope this process is interesting and educational.Don
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