I would bet that there are a lot of hobby wood-workers out there who don’t realize that files can be sharpened. None of the wood-working tool catalogs carry any but the most basic files, so if one is interested in carving or shaping by hand one must search flea markets and antique stores for files, most of which are old, dull, and rusty.
I got wind of the Boggs Tool Processing & File Sharpening Co. 14100 Orange Avenue, Paramount CA. 90723,who use a process of high pressure injecting of a fluid carried abrasive which under-cuts each tooth of the file, rendering them like new. Cost for 14″ bastard file was 2.24, and for a 10″ very fine Swiss file 3.75. I was amazed at the quality of the nine files that I sent them, and highly recommend their service.
Tom
Replies
Cool! I'll bet we have 100# of old files accumulated around here. Do I need to de-rust them before I send them off??
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
FG,
In the old days. (At least I'm told.) Files were sharpened in an acid bath. There was kit out there for awhile that you soaked your files in. You know my aversion to using acids so this sounds pretty neat. They are not to far off my beaten track. Maybe a field trip is in order.
BTW. According to my 85+ metal smith / machinist, they used to keep the files soaking in urine. I'm not sure I believe him. He also keeps telling me you can pick up a skunk by the base of his tail and he won't spray you....Hi, I'm Len and I'm a Toolaholic...
"He also keeps telling me you can pick up a skunk by the base of his tail and he won't spray you...." Tooooooo funny. Scary, taking advice from someone with those kinds of tidbits, LOL!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
No need to derust. They will come back looking like new.
TAaom
Excellent! Here's their web site:http://www.boggstool.com/forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Tom:
Thanks for the information. I just looked up their web sight and they state that if you mention it and you are a first time customer the first two files you send to them will be done at no charge. That is an offer that's hard to beat.
Roger
Tom, the big problem I'm having is determining which files to keep and which to just toss. I'm barely kidding about the number of files we have -- hubby and step-son are "gatherers" when it comes to jun........ah ..... stuff like that. As the shop-clearner-upper and re-organizer, I've gathered all the files in one place. I don't think we can afford to have all of them cleaned/sharpened though. Any tips on what types of files are real handy to have around? I do woodworking, hubby works on house problems, and step-son is a GradeA Certified auto mechanic.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
NO, but I can tell you that as soon as they get home, buy some light duck and make rolls for them so they dont bang into each other. Also, invest in a file card for cleaning.
My father, who was far better educated than I, tells me that files would last a lot longer if you kept separate sets for ferrous and non ferrous metals. Certainly, learning about the correct use of the different cuts has been at least as useful as learning about different grits in sand paper.
Pity I havent found something like this near here - I seem to have a large collection of rasps in similar condition.
To all,
Good gouge on keeping files separated! Most times you see them tossed into a drawer together all rubbing away at each other! Not good!
I've had some success with renewing old, rusty files by glass bead blasting (not sand!). This cleans them up very nicely and leaves them sharp. Auto machine shops frequently have bead blasters (make sure it's glass beads and not sand!).
If files are to used on aluminum, brass or other soft metal, I was taught to rub chalk on them occasionally before and during use; it keeps them from getting loaded up.
File card is imperative!
Regards,
Mack"WISH IN ONE HAND, #### IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"
Chalk even helps when filing steel.
Patto,
Tradition holds that a new file will last longer if you "break it in" on softer metals like brass, bronze, before taking it to steel.
My old shop teacher, Mr. Wood, (honest), required us to lift the file at the end of each stroke, instead of dragging it backwards across the work.
I used to keep all my files in a file cabinet.
Cheers,
Ray
Joinerswork,
Thanks for bring back that memory...yup, lift the file after each stroke..and brush about every thrid or fourth stroke...those were the days. Until, that is, he gave me the coping saw to cut the curves on a shoeshine box....I knew then I'd be a total failure in life...lol
I spent two years as part of the military staff of our Army Apprentices School in the late 80's, the first exercise for their fitters was to hand file a square hole into a piece of 1/8 plate, with a square piece fitted for an 8-way fit. Having since tried this, any hint on filing technique is valuable - it is like the weight transfer when hand planing.
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