Morning all:
Just thought I would share a little tip I picked up yesterday. Doubt that it is original but it is to me.
Was attaching false drawer fronts (inset) to drawers in chest I am building. Used to attach front to drawer with clamp and adjust until it fit the way I wanted. Yesterday- put 1/16 shim under front and adjusted the spacing. Then grabbed my pin nailer. Popped a bunch of pins into drawer and then front from behind. Took drawer out with front attached and secure with screws on flat surface. Worked great.
If there are other little tips out there, share away. PMM
Replies
I have been doing something like that for years, only to clear up the terminology, I call a false front, a board that matches the drawers, which mounts to the carcass under a sink, and has not need to open.
What you seem to be talking about is putting fronts onto drawer boxes.
What i normally do, is start with only the bottom drawer box in the cabinet. I then position the front on the drawer box, then reach over and shoot one brad in each end, inside the drawer box into the back of the front.
I then put the next drawer box in the cabinet, and put the next front on top of the lower one with a spacer between them, and shoot it on with a couple of brads etc.
The top drawer is the hard one. If I have carpet tape handy, I position it with the shim from the one below. Then pull the lower on out, so I can reach under to the back of the top drawer, and open it with the lower hand pushing against the other one holding the front on. This is just to keep from shooting holes into a nice front. If it is paint grade, I will just shoot the top one on from the front.
When only using a couple of brads to position them, If I find that for some reason one of the fronts wasn't positioned just right, it is easy to just open the drawer and push the front into the correct position with one hand while holding the box with the other.
Bending a couple of brads, and getting a little crushed fiber is easy. However if you shoot a bunch of brads or staples, you will need clamps to push things around to change the margins.
I usually wait until I am installing the pulls to add the extra fasteners. This beats the heck out of trying to use the screw adjustments in the slides.
Yes, I use 23 ga. pins shot from inside the drawer for most applications. Some circumstances require other methods. Here's 2 alternatives:
1. double-sided sticky tape, for applications where you cannot get access.
2. for situations which will need further adjustments, Blum sells an adjustable drawer front inset. If you loosen the screw on the inside of the drawer you can adjust the front 1/8" any direction. I've used these on a file cabinet unit with 30 separate drawer fronts to adjust, and it saved my ####.
regards,
David Ring
http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e
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