Looking for opinions on what screws are the best and maybe what lag bolts are the best.
Tired of screws that break off simple because the wood is dense.
Don’t use them for furniture but rather basic construction repair or building outside planters etc.
Replies
For an outside application like that, deck screws are probably the way to go. They come in a variety of lengths and drive types and some are even self tapping. For harder words, you probably still want to drill a pilot hole.
thanks
There was a FWW article a while back about how to use screws properly. It's the only article I've seen in my 50 years in the woodworking world. Worth a look. Most people now figure that if they use more torque on the screw, it will work without any pre-drilling. Unfortunately, for it to work properly, the screw needs to clamp the first board it passes thru between the screw head and the second board. It can only do this if the screw shank slips thru the first board; if it doesn't, the two boards will stay the same distance apart as when the screw entered and locked its threads into the second board. I.e., it won't tighten the two boards together. Some construction screws have a reduced diameter smooth shank for the first 1.5" for use in framing, and a self-tapping thread pattern that will help clean out a hole for the plain shank, but are really only going to work in soft framing lumber. In harder wood, drill a pilot hole in the first board slightly bigger than the thread diameter of the screw (so the screw slips thru the hole), and a smaller pilot hole slightly bigger than the root (solid) diameter of the threaded part in the second board. The last detail (especially for furniture or where glue is being used) is to use a countersink bit on the exit end of the hole in the first board to create a small countersink. This is because as the screw enters the second board, even with its pilot hole, it will raise a bit of wood because the surface wood would rather move out than compress. If you are using harder woods, that piece of raised wood won't compress well and will hold the two pieces apart.
I use screws a fair amount, and like to have a pleasant experience with them, so I take the steps necessary to have things go well.
As to screws breaking, there is a trade-off between strength and brittleness. Old style wood screws (that I now rarely use) would twist off; more modern screws tend to be stronger, but just snap off in a clean break. There is a limit to how strong a piece of steel can be.
Yes, totally agree. Here is a link to the mentioned article:
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2021/03/03/the-subtleties-of-driving-a-screw
Threads shouldn't bite AT ALL in the top piece and the bottom needs a pilot hole slightly deeper than the screw will go. Pilot hole roughly the same diameter of the shank of the screw, without threads. If in doubt, go one size smaller on the pilot, lube the screw, and use good screws.
Wood cracks around screws or emanating from where a screw was placed is almost always because the screw was biting into the top piece; the shank hole was too small.
Highly recommend: https://blacksmithbolt.com/pages/slotted-flat-head-steel-wood-screws
These guys too: https://boltdepot.com/Catalog-Tabs?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0fu5BhDQARIsAMXUBOKQdkDCOEBU_VLTxHiEYUPOyRtdovak6VAJiVWjD-uFSSAB2XwfC50aAtv3EALw_wcB
SPAX fasteners, sold in the US, are German engineered and manufactured in Ohio.
https://spax.us/products
Second what GoBills says. Spax are high quality screws, and available in both galvanized or stainless steel for outdoor use.
Spax are mostly construction screws. This is the furnituremaking site. Is Fine Homebuilding still a thing? Don't even know I'm sad to say.
If you need slotted, steel screws for furniture see the links posted. Phillips head/star drive/etc. on furniture is blasphemous.
I see the OP is looking for outdoor screws, Spax are fine but you can do better.
The OP says ..."don't use them for furniture"... but even so, I think the Shakers would have adopted Roberts and Torx drives rather quickly... I know I have. Is blasphemy still a thing?
In 'fine woodworking' screws have a place. In Sam's rocking chair the head rest has screws. The special wood two tier stand recently featured here uses screws. In my limited chair building I only use screws for bracing structures not major joints like aprons and back rests. I bet that the Shakers would really love 20 volt drills and Dominos, don't know about CNC.
Yes, the time i have used Spax screws was in building Sam Maloof's rocker. Spax were specifically recommended and did a great job. Generally I use joinery over fasteners, but (in my opinion) there is a role for fasteners in fine furniture.
For indoor woodworking projects, I have a selection of screws I ordered from McFeelys. They have a square drive which I prefer. Like others, I got fed up with big box store screws snapping off when tightened. For outdoor use, I like the gold construction screws from the big box stores. They are good for outdoor use and are stout.
If you pilot-hole it and dip the tip in wax, you can use any type of screw you wish.
I don't know if anyone else does this but I use wax from a new toilet seal ring. Pre drill, wax, then insert screws. I also am very cautious using power to seat screws. If I want brass screws, I always prep hole with steel screws then wax and insert brass. For smaller projects I always finish by hand.
I used wax from an old, dirty, second-hand toilet ring briefly. It worked, but the wax was too sticky/smushy. Now I use a hard paraffin wax.. Gulfwax, sold for candle making and canning. When the wax presses out under a screw head it's in flakes that brush off, not blobs that can smear.
I got the ring from a plumber pal after it got crushed in the back of his van.