There are so many options when buying 5″ sanding disks. I may do 2-4 projects a month. Most of the stuff I make is hardwood.
I’m embarrased to say it but when it comes to sanding, I just want to get it over with.
Can you please recommend a good starter kit of disks.
This is the greek I’m trying to figure out: PS33W 800B K/O 5 X 9H FESTO (50)
Ok, I guess the 5 is 5″ and the 50 is the case quantity. K/O – Knock off? 800B – the thickness of the paper/cloth?
Replies
Ken, what catalog are you looking at? OK, just for fun I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say that the 800B is grit (800, wow!) and B-weight paper. PS33W might be a catalog number only? 5X9H is 5" with 9 holes, fits Festo sanders.
If your projects start out in pretty good condition surface-wise, you could probably do fine with 150, 220 and 320 in your RO stable. If you use mostly hardwoods, you probably don't need stearated paper, and you'll have fewer finish problems to beware of if you don't use it. Most of the paper carried in the street stores seems to be coated, so you could always pick that up locally when you need it.
Hope I'm not too far off track here. One reason I like the Klingspor catalog is that I don't have to decipher so much.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 6/6/2003 6:25:51 PM ET by forestgirl
Thank you for answering my questions. You are very patient. I followed the link you gave me in the Random Orbital Sander thread. I thought it was Klingspor. I got lost real fast.
I like ordering online.
Would you mind posting a Klingspor part number or something I can search on? I'd like to get 50 of each (150,220,320). I'll get a few 60 and 80 grit from a nearby woodworkers shop.
Should I get the disks with holes? I've got 2-6 inches of sawdust on the floor of my shop and I really don't care about dust - so if it's just for the dust catcher thingy .. well .. I think you get my point. I scoop up the dust with a snow shovel and feed it to the fire in the winter.
Can I use non-holed disks on a Porter Cable 333? Will is screw up the ventilation system or load up the paper when it get's too hot?
Thanks again for taking the time to answer my questions.
-Ken
Ken, when you ask "Will is screw up the ventilation system or load up the paper when it get's too hot?" I think you are being very wise to consider the issue! Problem is, I don't know the answer! Let me drop a line to Sarge and Tooldoc and see if they can help out.
Hope you're not breathing all that fine dust. It's tres bad for the lungs and sinuses, as confirmed by a number of posters in the past and many clinical case studies.
I'll drop a line to the guys, and try to give you a steer to the right section at Klingspor, depending on what the verdict seems to be (the paper catalog I have is very old, and the numbers are not reliable).
Take care, I'm goin' out to dinner tonight!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
KEN; You have thePorter Cable model #333 with the dust collecting cup right?? Then use paper with holes soo your little cupie thingy can do its job ok...LOL..
ToolDoc
Ken, your sander uses the same 5-hole hook-and-loop paper, right? Hmmmmmm, there must be something wrong at the web site, because no items are showing up when I click on that category. I'd give them a call t'were I you. 1-800-228-0000 . They can't possibly be out of that paper!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Ken
I would get the correct 5 hole paper for your PC 333. Like Doc said, it will allow you to use the cup that comes with it. You will find it more efficeint if the sawdust has somewhere to go other than under the disc.
The 50 pk of serated for 150 is VD60010. 220 is VD60011. 320 is VD60031. If you wan lighweight paper the 150 is VD70010. 220 is VD70011. They don't have lighweight in 320.
I would go with the sterated and call them on the toll-free #. $5 shipping and handling for whatever size order.
Good Luck...
sarge..jt
$5??? I should be so lucky. My little order Friday got tagged with $9.07 for shipping. Consisted of:
1 50-pack of sandpaper
2 glue-application bottles
1 5-pack of PSA paper
1 vacuum adaptor for my DeWalt sander
1 bottle of De-Glue Goo
1 Sandvik scraper (the wrong one -- have to call and correct)
I wonder if they might have to ship the De-Glue Goo separately? That would up the cost for sure.
I'm going to suggest that Ken hook his sander up to a small shop vac when possible. That really makes for a clean sanding experience!
Thanks for checkin' in Sarge!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Me and my shop buddy (Peter, 12 yr old son) each have a boot box with our headset and gas mask. I got real tired of blowing and coughing up black walnut.
It's funny how only 1 of my 5 took an interest in woodworking. Peter is a real natural.
-Ken
It's good to know you're protecting those lungs. What about the dust that gets stirred up when you walk around the pile. Sorry to latch onto this like a protective mother bulldog, but I was exposed to bad respiratory things as a youngster (smoke from my mom, smog from LA) and have paid the price. Pollutants of any kind, including fine, almost invisible sawdust, wear on the respiratory system and cause unexpected problems down the road.
Take care and have "fun" sanding!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Hum... Haven't even considered the saw dust cloggin' up my wind pipes.
I've got an old Rainbow vacuum cleaner that'll clean the air but it's a pain in the tucas to change the water.
An interesting dilemma, indeed.
-Ken
OK, Ken, since you didn't tell me to go fly a kite, I'm gonna keep at this one! Exposure to sawdust over long periods of time can be very bad for you (Oh! Already said that, huh?) Once you figure out you have a problem, it's absolutely too late to do anything about it.
My understanding is that the tiny, invisible (or nearly so) particles are the ones that cause the most harm, because they are not effectively ejected out of the bronchial passages, lungs and sinuses. Of course, since we can't see them, we don't know they are there and don't know we're breathing them in usually.
Reactions can range from sinusitis or bronchitis (general inflammatory responses), which progressively get worse and more frequent over the years, to severe sinus infections, and all the way to cancers of the sinus or lungs. In addition, breathing such dust and having your skin be in contact with so much of it can lead to allergies. If the wood happens to have any mold spores in it, then you're off to another fun topic.
Our mucous membranes were not intended to be constantly bombarded with fine little particles of snaggy cellulose. Pile that on top of the pollutants that are found in most towns and cities these days, and the dry humidity found in most homes, especially in the wintertime, and the body just get pushed beyond coping. I suspect you could be a non-smoker and live in the pure air of a mountaintop all your life, and still develop lung or sinus cancer, or emphysema, strictly from working wood unprotected for a decade or two.
I know in the past there have been threads where people have posted links to articles about this woodworker or that one and his/her crisis related to sawdust exposure. I didn't follow those threads, because I was in the choir ("preaching to the choir"), but trust me they are there.
You might want to give serious consideration to:
Dust collection at the sources (even a big shop vac helps; sanders only need a small one; a regular fan with furnace filters, etc.)
Sweeping/vacuuming up sawdust at the end of a work session, using HEPA filters
An air filter unit hung from the ceiling
Being careful about sawdust and woodburning fires (can you spell e-x-p-l-o-s-i-o-n?)
OK, putting the soapbox away. BTW, I don't have an air filter yet, but use a big shop vac for dust collection, try to sand outside and upwind, and use a respirator when doing lots of sawing (contractor's saw doesn't Dust Collect very well). When finishing up after a big sawing stint, I go to the house and have lunch or something, letting the dust settle. One of those big air filters would help alot!
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 6/9/2003 6:49:27 PM ET by forestgirl
Ken
I have 4 shop-vacs. Two small 6 gal with the 1 1/4" hose. The nozzle of that thbing fits right over the inlet for the PC 333. I run a piece of duct tape around the connection and use the nozzle as a handle while the left hand (palm) goes over the top the RO.
Their is practically no dust in the air. It is terrible for your lungs for starters. #2, what usually happens after you sand. Finishing..... All that fine dust floating around is not the best thing that can happen when you get ready to apply finish.
Fuel for thought.....
sarge..jt
Thank you for the catalog #'s. I really appreciate your help.
-Ken
Just when you think a project is well on it's way to being finished you begin sanding and realize how far you have to go.
Buy a Walkman, remove the speakers from the headset and stuff them into your hearing protectors. The public libraries have "books on tape" . Whenever a lot of sanding looms in my future I pick up a few story tapes, pick one that I'm in the mood for and "hit the grits". I've found I now look forward to it.
Glendo.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled