I just completed a tabletop with a rubbed out finish. I applied 6 coats of gloss varnish, let it cure for 4 weeks and rubbed it out progressively with 400, 600, 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit sandpaper. My lubricant was mineral oil diluted with mineral spirits. I then applied an automotive finish swirl remover. My final application was carnauba wax. Much to my dismay, a “cloudiness” appears beneath the high gloss! Can anyone tell me what I may have done wrong and/or how to correct the problem? Thanks!
Jayder
Replies
A very common problem with varnish or poly varnish. Varnish is not that hard a finish when it cures. This means that "rubbing it out" is problematic. Finishes like lacquer and shellac are much harder finishes and rub out much better to a high gloss.
From your description, it sounds like the only thing you did not do was to use a polishing compound before the swirl remover. This step may be attempted now and then finish off with the swirl remover.
Thank you for your help. Since the polyvarnish is so problematic, and will not give me the desired gloss, I would like to use the lacquer finish. I realize this would mean starting over. Can this be done, and if so, can you recommend the correct procedure and/or a source (book or video) to step me through it?
Jayder
You mentioned that you used a polyurethane in your second post, which is not the same as a traditional alkyd varnish. Poly's have a cloudiness, as you've discovered, especially in thicker coatings. But you can get a great finish with alkyd varnish, as described in my article in FWW #168.
Shellac and lacquer rub beautifully, but shellac doesn't offer as much protection against water and alcohol damage, and lacquer is much more difficult (and smelly) to brush (assuming that you're brushing, not spraying).
You could roughen the existing finish, but you'll probably have future trouble with adhesion, and of course you'd still be looking through the cloudiness. Stripping it with chemical removers would be best, but that might also affect any stain you may have used. Otherwise I would sand it down to a thin coating finishing up with a final sanding of 220. Then build the finish with alkyd varnish.
You could probably skip some of the sanding steps; typical for me would be 320, 600, 1000, 2000, rubbing compound, finishing compound.
Hope this helps...
Thank you for your reply. I re-read your article. My practice piece (21" x 21"), identical to the tabletop, came out very well. Here is my dilemma.
The actual tabletop is in two pieces, each 42" x 53." The center is veneered with African makore, with a solid cherry edging. No stain. The size made the rub-out very time consuming. I have no problem doing it over, but want to get it right the second time! Stripping may ruin the veneer.
I see two options; follow your sanding instructions, re-apply an alkyd varnish, and rub out, or attempt to spray lacquer on it, and then do the rub out. Taking the size into consideration, what do you recommend? I've never sprayed lacquer on wood before.
Jayder
I would stick to the varnish for a couple of reasons. If you haven't sprayed before, it means renting or purchasing spray equipment and learning to use it on something or another. Plus you really need an appropriate location where fumes can be removed without risk of explosion. All this would be fine if you plan to finish enough future projects to make it worthwhile. Spraying anything is considerably faster and easier once you're set up for it.
The other reason is that unless you're careful, lacquer can lift the poly film that will be below it, and if it were to happen, you'd be stuck with a real mess.
David
Thank you, David. Lack of an appropriate location is exactly the reason I haven't sprayed lacquer before. I will follow your advice and instructions to refinish the tabletop with alkyd varnish. In the meantime, my wife has purchased a new tablecloth that will temporarily remedy the problem until after Thanksgiving dinner! Happy Holidays!
Jayder
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