Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jul 03, 2009 05:07am | #1

   Padauk is one of the oily hardwoods that can cause oil finishes or oil based varnishes from curing.  Tung oil, the real kind, not tung oil finish, takes a very long time to cure under the best of circumstances.  It might be worth trying an oil/varnish mix on scrap to see how your particular wood affects the drying of the finish.  The only finish I could be confident that would dry satisfactorily is shellac, but that commits you to a film finish on the wood, not an oil finish "in the wood"   

    

1. 
   dantt | Jul 03, 2009 07:20am | #2

   SteveSchoene <!----> <!---->

   <!---->I have heard of a water based poltyurathane rub on finish. Our objective is to have the wood look natural. I thought shelac would darken the wood. <!---->

   <!---->Any ides on those comments. I've use regular brush on poly and did not like it. I got small dots or bubbles that can not be buffed out. That's why I wanted to try some type of a rubbed on finish.<!---->

   <!---->I appreciate your response.<!---->

   <!---->Thanks, Daniel<!---->

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jul 03, 2009 05:11pm | #5

   Just a few comments.  Not all "oily woods" prevent oil/varnish mixes or oil based varnishes from drying properly.  Sometimes it varies from tree to tree.  That's why I recommend testing if that's what you want. 

   As far as darkening, any oil or oil-based finish will substantially darken the wood.  Shellac, especially if you mix super blonde or ultra blonde flakes will have the minimal darkening effect, at least since you can't really rely on water borne finishes over oily woods.  Those may have adhesion problems that might not show up immediately.  Shellac doesn't darken or "yellow" over time like oil based finishes do. But the underlying reality is that wood changes color over time.  Some woods do this more than others, and not always predictably. 

   "Regular" varnish that dries with bubbles in it has not been properly thinned.  Often only a little added thinner is needed to solve that problem.  Labels lie about adding thinner.  They tell you not to thin, even though the product is extremely hard to use without thinning, because of regulations limiting VOCs.  If they directed you to thin the product it would, from a regulatory viewpoint, be almost the same as including the thinner in the can. 

   Tung oil finish is generally a superior product to pure tung oil, but, the name doesn't tell much about the product.  Many products labeled that way are oil/varnish mixes, which would give a finish hard to distinquish from one that used pure tung oil, but which would be easier and more reliable to use than pure tung oil.  Others, including Formby's, are not oil/varnish mixes, but are actually wiping varnishes without an admixture of oil.  Formby's says so on the label;  I'm not sure others do.  You can mostly tell by the instructions on the label.  If they say to apply, let penetrate, and then buff or wipe off all excess product then it is an oil/varnish mix.  Wiping varnishes will generally tell you something about wiping on thin, even coats. 

1. 
   Jimma | Jul 03, 2009 08:58pm | #7

   Steve -- no intent here to start a war of words over finish for padauk, but I've noticed when I've used padauk for accent adjacent to another species (as in a decorative glue-up) that the padauk tends to bleed across the joint and into the other woods. I haven't noticed this with lacquer or oil finishes, just the alcohol based shellac. I suppose this would not interfere with using shellac on a padauk-only project. Just my experience. Jim

2. 
   WillGeorge | Jul 03, 2009 08:40pm | #6

   I have used Padauk on more than a few occasions. I never put more than one coat of oil/varnish mix. I usually use a Danish oil.. Ok, so it turns it into a darker sort of orange Red.. I apply the 'varnish' with a gray 3M pad and rub it in. I continue on applying coats while rubbing out.. I may do the same ever other hour for three or four tries... Then I just wax it and buff it out!. By the way, these are smaller projects.. Nothing like a large tabletop.. I like the finished wood and no complaints for the receivers. I have NO idea if the color when finished and delivered is the same after time...

   And I have made a few things from Padauk that were just waxed with a linen buffing wheel that worked! Very pretty...

   I do not use Padauk often because I hate that dust and I sneeze for a week after cutting it!

   Edited 7/3/2009 1:42 pm by WillGeorge

2. 
   ring | Jul 03, 2009 09:16am | #3

   I've done a large padauk table with Tung Oil Finish (not pure tung oil) and have it turn out very nicely. But take into account that the wood will turn deep brown rather quickly.

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?lang=e&id=1

3. 
   Ckenney | Jul 03, 2009 02:58pm | #4

   You can counteract the oily factor in the wood, by first applying a couple of light coats of a dewaxed shellac as a barrier. Then you can switch to a wipe on poly or oil/varnish.

   Good luck

   http://acornhouse.wordpress.com/
   a hobbyist's journey
4. 
   Quickstep | Jul 03, 2009 10:34pm | #8

   I've done this on Teak, and I've read that it will work on paduak as well.

   Sand the wood in progressively finer grits up to 1200 or 1500. When you get to the wet-or-dry paper use naphtha as a lubricant (sanding by hand). After that, polish with grey synthetic steel wool. Finish using a buffing wheel. It polishes up to a semi-gloss finish using just the oil in the wood. If you don't like the way it turns out, there's no finish on the wood so you can start over. 

1. 
   dantt | Jul 03, 2009 11:26pm | #9

   Hi,

   Thanks for all of the replies. I previously made a table from Paduak but did not finish it. It darkened and I thought not using a finish caused the darkening. Well, I'm making a table for my sister. We went to the lumber supply and I showed her Paduak. She liked the orange color. I told her if we use the correct finish it will not darken like mine did. Fortunatly I'm making this for my sister and she will be forgiving for my mistake.  What I have learned is that no matter what is done (finish or no finish) the Paduak will darken very much. We will not be able to retain the bright orange color.  I'm leaning toward  a furniture wax.

   I learned allot from this experience.

   Dan 

1. 
   WillGeorge | Jul 04, 2009 01:32am | #10

   Fortunatly I'm making this for my sister and she will be forgiving for my mistake. 

   A sister may forgive you but will bring it up at times.. Just like a wife!

2. 
   flairwoodworks | Jul 04, 2009 05:51am | #11

   Dan,Tell her to sand the table monthly, and it will stay orange!EDIT: Personally, I prefer (and really, really like) the dark reddish colour padauk changes to.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodworks.com
   and http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com) - Success is not the key to happiness.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

   Edited 7/3/2009 10:52 pm by flairwoodworks

1. 
   dantt | Jul 04, 2009 07:56am | #12

   Well to my unexpect knowledge I told her about the darkening  with any finish we used and she told me she expected  the wood will darken.  Previously she only told me she was concerned about what type of finish to use. However, I learned allot about finishes and appreciate all of the feed back.  It's great to have a sister who is smarter than me. Thanks for the info every one.

   Daniel