Replies

1. 
   daverichards | Sep 20, 2007 08:10pm | #1

   Could you post a sketch of what you are doing? If you can make the ogee cut with a router, I would think you could creat a tilted fence for a router table for the work to run along.  

1. 
   uzie | Sep 20, 2007 08:14pm | #2

   Dave I don't see anywhere on this page where I can attach a scanned sketch.  Any other ideas how I can get a sketch on board?

1. 
   daverichards | Sep 20, 2007 08:21pm | #3

   At the bottom of the page when you're posting a reply, click on Attach Files. That should lead you to a way to borwse for the image on your computer.

1. 
   uzie | Sep 20, 2007 08:56pm | #4

   Thanks, didn't scroll down far enough to see the "attach files"

   
1. 
   daverichards | Sep 20, 2007 09:29pm | #5

   Do you have an ogee cutter sized to make that part of the molding? Does it have a pilot bearing? I'd cut a bevel with the tablesaw to get rid of most of the waste. The ogee and the convex curve at the top might have to be done with an extension in the router because cutter height is going to be a problem.

   If I were doing it, I would make the molding in three pieces. One for each of the profiles. I'd plane each piece so you could make the layers of the molding as in my quick sketch.

   
2. 
   uzie | Sep 20, 2007 11:58pm | #6

   Yes, I do have an ogee cutter that size.  Not familiar with the term "pilot bearing" though.  I had thought of doing it in three pieces, 3 measurements for each piece is written at the side, but, in order to get the right angle for the ogee section, I was thinking of trimming off a wedge on the table saw first.  However, getting the precise angle might be a little tricky.

3. 
   daverichards | Sep 21, 2007 12:28am | #7

   Pilot bearing--a guide bearing.

   Do you have the specs for the bit? Maybe I could work out the angle with a drawing.

4. 
   uzie | Sep 21, 2007 03:47pm | #11

   Specs are 1/2" radius 2 1/2 diam.

5. 
   daverichards | Sep 23, 2007 01:53am | #12

   Well, if I figured out the cutter correctly from your numbers, it looks like you would make an aux fence that leans back at ~13.2° and cut the same bevel on the edge of the 3/4" stock to cut the entire bit profile on the 3/4" thick wood. See the sketch which will hopefully clarify.

   
6. 
   jrogerh | Sep 21, 2007 03:50am | #8

   "If I were doing it, I would make the molding in three pieces"

   I am going to make a large crown molding (about 4" tall by 3" deep) for some bookcases I am building.  I have considered routing each profile separately on a 3/4" thick stock and then stacking them together and gluing them.  Not sure how well this would work.  They will be long, relatively thin pieces and I worry about keeping them properly aligned when I clamp them up.  Any tips?

7. 
   saschafer | Sep 21, 2007 04:00am | #9

   Make them out of stock that is wider than the final molding will be, contour the edges and glue them up while they're still wide, then saw the molding off the edge of the assembly.

   In addition to the molding, you'll have a nice glued-up blank from which you can turn, say, a baseball bat....

   -Steve

    

8. 
   daverichards | Sep 21, 2007 04:43am | #10

   One thought that comes to mind is to rip shallow, narrow grooves down the length of the faying faces of the strips. Then cut some matching spline stock to put in the grooves. You'd have to figure out how to locate the grooves so the pieces would line up properly but that shouldn't be too bad.