Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | May 06, 2009 05:19pm | #1

   Unless it was abused, which is hard to do to a jointer, the machine should clean up and work well. In general, as long as they have been kept dry, old machinery doesn't deteriorate in storage, although drive belts sometimes need replacing.

   John White
   Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998-2006

2. 
   Mackwood | May 06, 2009 06:29pm | #2

   Look it over very carefully for breaks, cracks and missing pieces of casting especially on the ends of the tables and around the dovetail ways that guide and support them.  It is very common for an "unused" jointer to get tipped over and damaged.  I have an 8" Rockwell that I got free for this very reason.

   Other than breakage, just about anything can be adjusted back to new or even better than new tolerances.

   Look around, $250 sounds a bit high for a 6", 70's vintage jointer that has no plug and hasn't run in 5 years.

   Best of luck!

   Mack

   "Close enough for government work=measured with a micrometer, marked with chalk and cut with an axe"

3. 
   forestgirl | May 07, 2009 06:07am | #3

   Without a plug, I'd be most concerned about how to tell if the motor runs.  They can be expensive to replace.  If it's 115V, wouldn't be hard to take a plug with you, put it on and check the motor.  230V not so easy, as there's probably no circuit to plug it into.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   
1. 
   paulray | May 07, 2009 06:41am | #4

   thanks for the replies so far. i have already asked the seller if he would take the machine back if it did not run and he said he would. i have 220 so i could quickly find out if it runs once i got it home. i half expect to replace the belt but unless the thing was exposed to a lot of moisture i think it will be okay. in the several pictures i have seen the machine appears to be in good shape.thanks again,paul

1. 
   paulray | May 08, 2009 04:45am | #5

   so, i actually spoke with the seller today. i found out that the jointer was used in the chicgo school system untill they decided to end the wood working program. the man's father-in-law bought the machine and after a while gave it to this guy who is selling it. it has been sitting unused for 5-6 years but it was working prior to the transfer in owners. its plug was removed, not torn off. perhaps someone needed a 220 plug.anyway, he sent me another photo or 2 and the machine does look good. the only other problem other than the plug is some surface rust on the cutter head and blades. he says it is not pitted. anyway, just thought i'd share this info. i am trying to be realistic about this but i don't think it will be too hard to clean this up and get it working, any other thoughts would be appreciated. thanks.paul

   Edited 5/7/2009 9:46 pm ET by paulray

1. 
   JohnWW | May 09, 2009 04:00pm | #11

   Many school system shops were wired for three phase power and even the small machines had three phase motors, so you should check on that before buying the machine. If the motor is three phase you will either have to replace it or get a converter.I would also take a close look at the machine before buying, in my experience school shop machines are often very badly abused, damaged in ways that are hard to conceive of happening.John White

   Edited 5/9/2009 9:02 am ET by JohnWW

1. 
   PeteBradley | May 09, 2009 05:00pm | #12

   John makes a good point. More than once I've seen "wired for 220" mean 220 3 phase. Sometimes even the seller doesn't know. Not a big deal on this machine, but you have to factor a replacement motor into your offer. Check the plate on the motor. If no plate, look for a capacitor, if no cap it's either 3-phase (most likely) or a single phase split phase motor, which will work on a jointer but is likely to be too small.An older machine might have other perfectly good motors that don't show a cap, but I'm trying to keep it simple.Pete

   Edited 5/9/2009 10:02 am ET by PeteBradley

2. 
   paulray | May 10, 2009 02:31pm | #13

   well, i bought the machine before reading the posts about 3 phase. anyway, no problems. it was single phase. i bought a new plug and 7 feet of new wirea nd intalled it, it started right up, nice and quiet. i disassembled it and am in the process of doign some refurbishing. it really does not need much but i thought cleaning it all up and repainting it would be fun.  it works great and is in perfect shape. i could not get him dowm from 250 but he did throw in a great ww'ing vice, so all in all i'm quite pleased. i'll post a picture or 2 when it it put back together.

    

   thanks for everyone's thoughts and comments on this.  i really do appreciate them.

    

   paul

3. 
   stevemorris | May 11, 2009 02:10pm | #16

   so is the motor a 220 volt?, most of them were 110 i believe, but changing a motor of course is easy

   its good machine, ive been very pleased with mine, chip collection on mine is perfect, it has the sheet metal enclosed stand with a dust chute

2. 
   stevemorris | May 08, 2009 04:50am | #6

   i have one of those machines, mines from  the late 70's

   i bought it 4 months ago, in perfect working order, and its been flawless, ive run over 1000 bdft over it and just rehoned the blades once

   mine has a 2hp 110 volt motor

   somebody i know on another forum bought one in crappy condition and has rebuilt it with great results

   a jointer is a pretty simple machine, not much to go wrong, just make sure the tables are parallel

   
1. 
   paulray | May 08, 2009 05:02am | #7

   that look just like the one i'm looking at. what do you think of $250 given the rust and plug issues?paul

1. 
   stevemorris | May 08, 2009 12:26pm | #8

   well, a plug is certainly not an issue, even if it is 220 which is pretty unlikely, it probably has a 1hp, 110, plenty for a 6 inch machine

   rust on the cutter head or tables are easy to remedy and sharpening the blades will take care of them ok, and new blades are less than 20 bucks, if there not chipped at all you could just hone them yourself, thats what i do

   i paid 350 can. for mine, but mine was fully operational, newly sharpened and had a new 2hp motor with a 12 foot 14 guage cord

    

2. 
   PeteBradley | May 09, 2009 03:28am | #9

   I'd call $250 pretty high for a 6" jointer you can't test. It's going to want bearings and a belt which are not a big deal but not free. If the gib screws are seized, they'll cost you also.If you trust the seller to take it back, that helps. I'd be offering about $125-150 assuming no cracks, breaks or missing parts and with a good set of knives and gibs.Pete

3. 
   paulray | May 09, 2009 05:15am | #10

   thanks again for all of the info and advice. i'm going to see it tomorrow. i'll let you know what transpires...paul

4. 
   seajai | May 10, 2009 05:46pm | #14

   To firgure out the year of you jointer, look for a serial number tag and then check out:

     http://wiki.owwm.com/DeltaSerialNumbers.ashx  this should help you narrow down the year of manufacture. Also, check out http://www.owwm.com  , you can find pictures, articles, and even download old manuals.

   

   
   

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   Edited 5/10/2009 10:55 am by seajai

1. 
   paulray | May 10, 2009 11:44pm | #15

   1975! i was born in 1970!