Ok ok I’ve read the recent discussion on band saws, specifically regarding the thread with Marauder. I’ve narrowed mine down to the Steel City 14″ BS(no granite top) instead opting for an upgrade on a better fence. My question now is if I want to be able to do 10″ resaw later on should I opt for the 14″ and add a riser block? If I do, does such a procedure compromise the quality of the BS. My thoughts are to go to 16″ but I do want to minimize the footprint in my shop and a wheel base is a must… so an added cost. The 14″ come with a built in mobile base. If anyone else has a Steel city BS pass on the 411. I do have their jointer and quite satisfied with it. I would not even consider a new Delta BS.
Regards
Carpenter5
Replies
Carpenter5,
Your question is a bit confusing because you say you may want to resaw lets say 10" well the only way you can do it on that model is adding the riser block. I don't have the SC 14" BS, but I do have the Powermatic 14" that had great reviews(I got the mobile base and riser block free), and here is what I've found about resawing tall stock. Make sure you are using the right blade with proper tension and tracking. Set the guides and then set the drift angle. Lastly, purchase or build a taller fence and if these are all done accurately the new 12" resaw capacity cut is as efficient as the 6".
I too own a Delta 14" and have noticed virtually NO DIFFERENCE with the way the saw cuts after installing the riser block. If the saw comes with the riser block installed that's one less thing you will have to fiddle with and will add resale value down the road.
If you have any inclination to resaw down the road you good to go and you won't have any 93" blades hanging around looking for a new owner.
I'd say GO FOR IT.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
I switched from a Jet 14" w/riser to a MM16 primarily due to frustrating resaw results once I started trying to cut much taller than the original non-riser height. It's do-able but a lot of factors have to be just right or cuts turn out less than straight, flat, and smooth. Blade sharpness, feed rate, blade lead adjustment, blade tension and your lucky underwear all have to be in synch at the same time. HP and the ability to tension the blade on the stiffer (larger) saws is the big factor in their favor. If you can at all swing the 16" version I think you'll be happier in the long run. I know someone with the 18" SC saw and it's a very nice saw.From what I can tell from their site the 16" looks like the frame might be the same construction. The Griz machines also get a lot of good forum posts in the lower priced category.
If you build it he will come.
I'm a little confused by the question too, but sounds like you're asking if adding the riser block "degrades" in any way the 14" saw. In my experience, absolutely not. I have an older Grizzly 14" saw (1019Z) and added the riser block a couple years after I bought it. Only regret was that I didn't simply buy it and install it when I bought the saw. Much easier, and you don't end up with a bunch of blades that no longer fit your saw.
Another issue, though, that lurks in your original post is: "Is the 14" saw as good as the 16" saw." That's a different animal. Yeah, there's the footprint size and cost issue, but think ahead over the lifetime of the tool. In general, 14" saws are considered intro saws for the hobbiest. Much depends on how differently built the two saws are, and how hard you're going to push the saw.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 6/7/2008 11:27 am by forestgirl
Hey Forest Girl, nice to hear frim you and thanks for the reply. I think I will stick to the 14" saw/w riser block. Realizing that the 14" is the most practical I'll skip the bigger model. If I go any biger I'll compromise valuable shop space. My biggest wish was to get more than a 6" resaw capability. If I can achieve 8"w/ riser block, I'll be happy.
Regards,
Carpenter5
Carp,
I'm confused again. Wouldn't the riser block be 6" which would give you a total of 12" possible so you are well in range to resaw the width you speak of.
I wasn't even sure how much the riser block would even give becuase I had not asked the dealer yet how long the riser would be, but hey thanks.
They are normally 6" risers. Get you a good resaw blade (3-4 tpi) and go to work.
The only reason I would advocate a larger (16 or 18) saw right now is the table height and bang for the buck. I doubt that I will ever outgrow my 14" bandsaw. I'm 6'1" and find doing any work on the elevated table an absolute PIA.
If you incorporate the bandsaw into you shop plan, 16 or 18" will fit as nicely as a 14" - possibly better.
There are some very aggressively priced 18" saws on the market right now. They are not significantly more expensive than a 14". I know every dollar counts, but this tool should last a long long time, so you have to amortize the costs and look down the road. If you think your are going to need 10" re saw, buy for it now!
Don
I have been considering that in the past, allbeit truthfully more because I just wanted a bigger one. But as you say it does merrit some more serious thought for future considerations. Thanks for the advice.
Carpenter5
I find the band saw an incredibly useful go to tool. With enough space I would have a 14" equipped with a narrow blade and an 18" equipped with a wide blade.
My Father purchased a 14" Milwaukee / Delta band saw in 1958. Last year I did a major restoration and tune up on it. I bought the riser kit but since it's motor is only 1/3 hp I decided to forgo the riser. While the saw runs much better the design of the upper guide assembly is still a weak point.
After looking at the 14" Steel City I was very impressed by the stability of the rack and pinion style upper blade guide which, IMO, is far superior to most other 14" band saws. Riser block kits contain a longer replacement upper guide shaft. Is there a replacement shaft specifically for the Steel City's rack and pinion?
Vic
Good morning Vic. Forest Girl sent me an e-mail to see if I can answer your question about the rack and pinion guide bar for the SC 14"? Well... it just so happens I probably can.
The Steel City 14" riser block kit comes with the replacement rack and pinion for the longer travel. It also comes with a longer blade guide as the original would end up short also. So.. the kit should contain all that is needed to make the switch.
And I agree with your theory on keeping your 14" saw if you do get a larger for basic re-saw only. I did just that and it turned out to be a smart move. The larger saws shine with re-saw... but you sometimes have to fiddle a little with very narrow blades as the guides are much larger on the bigger saws.
The SC has roller guides which makes that less problem than the Euro style... but still is it easier IMO to have the 14" set up with a narrow blade for curves and the larger a 3/4" or larger for re-saw. Some might not have the space but I happen to and it saves much time in lieu of blade changes.
Regards...
Sarge..
I went through this process last Fall - 14" or 16" Steel City. Which one? Well, the 16" can't take a riser block and the 14" with it has a greater resaw capacity. So which did I buy? The 18" Steel City. It was only a few bucks more and its the last one I'll ever have to buy. It has all the benefits of both smaller saws, more horse power and the additional floor space it takes up is negligable. Great saw.
I have had the SC 18" since they were first introduced but kept my smaller Jet to keep a narrow blade on to avoid switching. If I had to chose between the two (which I don't as I enjoy the simple luxury of keeping both) it would have the be the 18" as it covered both worlds extremely well as you mention.
Regards...
Sarge..
It was your review here in Knots that led me to the saw. Don't know if I ever thanked you. If not, thanks! If so, thanks again. Its a very good tool.
Hiya Sarge,
I kinda wish I had your foresight. I had a 12" Delta BS that I traded for a powerwashing unit when I got my 18" Rikon. The Rikon will handle 1/4" blades rather well, but the little Delta was the cat's meow for small tight curve work.
Oh well, I needed a powerwasher too--just not in the woodshop. <G>
Gooday,
Chris.
I had jut logged out getting ready to go down to the shop for the day when I caught an e-mail alert you had posted. I will respond now as I sized..ripped and jointed around 600' linear feet yesterday. Much panel glue-up and many M&T's on the menu today for face and back frames... so I better take care of it now.
I tried to sell the little Jet 12" I had and after a week there were no takers. If it had been a 14" I would have gotten many replies as most think of a 12" as in-adequate. But.. in the case of the Jet 12" it is cast iron and would surprise many. I believe it to be the best 12" on the market.
So.. since it was mobile on a substantial base I had built.. I decided to take it off the market for small blades. I just rolled it to the back shop to make way for the 18". It takes about 20 seconds to roll it up to the front cut area.. lock the casters and go to work. I do most curves on it with a 1/4" 6 tpi blade, especially templates. I also cut a lot of plastics for machine mods.
At this point the fact that it didn't draw immediate response was a blessing in disguise. I use the 18" with a 3/4" Lennox bi-metal for re-saw and ripping thick stock. The 12" gets the call on smaller jobs and that is about 35% of my band-saw diet. So... it has proven to be a major time saver... especially when those two separate task fall one after the other. Nothing more frustrating than to be cut curves... then need a large rip and latter another curve and then re-saw.
With that scenario.. I just roll it up and leave it for the day. It becomes a matter of taking about 6 steps and hitting a ON-OFF switch. Every time that happens I think how if the 12" had sold.. I would be uttering under my breathe... I wish I had kept that little fella. ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..
All's well that ends well... :>)
Sarge..
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