Replies

1. 
   BruceS | Aug 07, 2008 06:04pm | #1

   IMHO  Most chemicals(acid or caustic base) have no place going on metal surfaces in my shop anymore, learned that the hard way.

   When light rust appears on my tools.  I go for the fine Scotch Brite pads sitting under the random orbit sander or Mirka Abranet discs and then a coat of paste wax or Bostik Top Cote. 

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

2. 
   Knotscott | Aug 07, 2008 06:40pm | #2

   WD-40 and some 180 grit on a palm sander should help....follow it up with 220, 400, and at least two coats of paste wax. I like to use a light coat of Boeshield T9, dried and buffed prior to the wax.

1. 
   powermatic66 | Aug 07, 2008 07:41pm | #3

   Thanks. Is Briwax (original clear) a suitable wax?  I have heard that one should avoid anything with silicon on the saw as that can impact finishes down the line

1. 
   stillfigurinitout | Aug 08, 2008 07:34am | #6

   I recently bought a Grizzly TS and the top was really not that bad but hey it's new to me and I wanted the top to shine.  I used a medium scotch pad as mention in the thread and WD-40.  My mistake is that I rubbed too hard in a couple of areas and they shine, the rest of the top less so.  I'm considering sanding the top like mentioned here also.  The reason I'm responding is that I used wax that is advertized mostly as Carnuba, that I bought at the local automotive store.  It was a recommendation from another woodworker and it works great.  Its soft, not like a hard paste wax.  Goes on nice, no silicon and it's cheap.  i put three coats on the top and on the teflon pads on the fence, and the rails.  the fence slides like a skater on ice.  smooth as silk.  I'm going to wax the TS cabinet, also.

2. 
   Rich14 | Aug 08, 2008 12:36pm | #7

   Power . . .re: "I have heard that one should avoid anything with silicon on the saw as that can impact finishes down the line"One should avoid putting any treatments that use silicones (not silicon) on wood that is going to be finished or on finished pieces that might ever need to be refinished as the residual silicones, trapped in the wood and later released, could affect finishing with lacquer. In other words, keep commercial products such as Armor All (sp?) and Old English Scratch Remover and most spray "wax" products away from furniture.But treating a tool surface with a silicone-containing material that is then wiped dry will not affect wood that is brought in contact with the tool.Rich

3. 
   dgreen | Aug 07, 2008 08:25pm | #4

   I'm assuming you have a 66 with a polished top, it is going to be difficult to bring it back to a uniform appearance without a lot of polishing. If you only work on the areas that were treated with the acid I'm afraid those areas will always look different.

   The first marks on a new tool are always traumatic but as you said it's just cosmetic. Unless you like polishing metal more than wood working I would throw the naval jelly as far as I could and ignore the character marks on the top.

    

    

   ................................................

   You can't wait for inspiration. You have to go after it with a club.

   Jack London

4. 
   Tinkerer3 | Aug 08, 2008 05:14am | #5

   I have the PM66.  I don't think you will ever get the mirror finish back.  You could put the naval jelly on the whole surface of the top and get it to a uniform look.  I wouldn't recommend it.  Like others have said -- just ignore it

5. 
   philip | Aug 09, 2008 12:17am | #8

   Well, you could have the whole top hard chrome plated, then it would be pristine for ever.
   Seriously, light abrasives rather than chemicals for ordinary surface rust would be a good rule, followed by some sort of surface protector. Life can get difficult if one focusses on certain minor details.

   Philip Marcou