Replies

1. 
   peter28 | Apr 02, 2008 03:28pm | #1

   Shannon,

   Sorry for delaying you.

   A gel stain can be used with a light touch to fill the color back into the scratches.

   The tung oil you mentioned is not the way to go. It is probably just a thin varnish like watco and is a finish that wants to penetrate raw wood not sit on a lacquered surface. You'll end up with a tacky mess that won't really dry.

   If the finish is in relatively decent shape, you can skip the oil and just apply some wax. All this will really do is give it a shine and make it look more presentable.

   The faded wood is another problem. Matching the rest of the table can be a bit tricky. One way is to lightly sand the finish with 320 paper, clean and then apply a glaze. Once the glaze is dry another coat of lacquer can seal it in.

   Another way is to spray a toning lacquer to match the color.

   Often it is just better to strip a table like this and refinish it. I don't know if that is in your cards right now. It may be more work but you can start fresh and have a very nice surface when you are done.

   Again, sorry for the delay.

   Peter

    

1. 
   jshannonb | Apr 02, 2008 08:27pm | #2

   PeterThanks for your reply. Most of my work with furniture in the past has either been much older pieces or building new reproductions (mostly American primitives). I have worked with oils/varnish a lot and some Shelac in the past.
   I have never dealt with a lacquer finish before. Is there a simple test to verify it is lacquer? I am assuming it is lacquer because of it's age (fifties) and that it is a production piece. If it is lacquer, then are my only options stripping it, spraying on more lacquer and/or waxing it? The cleaning and gel stain has evened up the color to an acceptable level. The finish is Ok now but a little dull and I would like to protect it where I have cleaned up the scratches and one water mark.
   I would like to add some finish and then yes, wax it, but am unsure how to proceed without identifying the existing finish. If it's not lacquer then will spraying on lacquer over oil or some other finish create the same kind of mess the adding oil over lacquer will?Thanks again
   Shannon

1. 
   peter28 | Apr 03, 2008 03:28pm | #3

   Shannon

   The finish on a production table will be lacquer. To test, if you have an inconspicuous spot put a small drop of lacquer thinner and let it sit for around a minute. If it softens and lifts it's lacquer. You may not have a spot to do this however.

   If I planned on spraying a new coat of lacquer, I would use a coat of shellac as a barrier coat first.

   If the top is good and clean as you said, you should be able to use a brushing varnish to re coat it. Behlens Rockhard, Pratt and Lambert, Waterlox gloss and satin are a few that come to mind. You could thin out the first two to make a wiping varnish if you'd like. 

   As long as the top has been cleaned very well of wax and dirt the varnish should adhere well. Prior to the varnish, give it a light rubbing with a maroon scotch pad to give the surface some tooth.

    Personally, I would still lay a thin coat of shellac first then the varnish.

   Don't ever try and spray a lacquer over the varnish. The solvents in the lacquer will attack and soften the varnish and give you a sticky mess. Then you will be stripping and refinishing.

   Prior to waxing a varnish be sure and let it sit for at least a month to cure.

   Good luck.

   Peter

    

1. 
   jshannonb | Apr 03, 2008 03:44pm | #4

   Thanks PeterThat is exactly what I needed thanks. I had already bought the lacquer thinner and shellac but was afraid to take the next step and Grotz wasn't much help (too new).It's a pretty table (modern as it is ) and I'll enjoy bringing it back.Take Care
   Shannon