Recently, I found a peice of red wood from oregon that I want to use for a clock. The
holes have been drilled for three inserts-temp, humidity, and a clock. This wood has
a lot of birds eye in it. Originally, my thoughts were to put a system 3 mirrorcoat on
it, however, a couple of woodworking store’s in Washington have recommended that
I not use a two part epoxy system and should stay with a tradintional finish such as
tung oil. I’ve decided go the oil finish route. I’ve used PC Petrifier for any of the soft
bark on the end’s of the wood and Old Master’s gel natural stain with no varnish. The
question is, can I come back with a super blonde shellac 1# cut on top of that finish
for a total seal and to fill in the grain before I use the tung oil.
Jeff Morehead
Replies
Redwood burl is beautiful stuff! Just by way of comparison I'll relate my experience with it.
Several years ago I was browsing in a local GoodWill resale store and happened upon a very grungy looking wooden bowl. It looked horrible. Someone had apparently used some type of non-drying oil on it because the entire thing was somewhat sticky. I could still see the turning marks that hadn't been sanded out completely. It had every appearance of being someone's old High School woodshop project, something that I could identify because I still have the Black Walnut bowl that I turned in HS woodshop class. Anyway, it was obvious that the bowl was turned from one single chunk of burl. I later had an expert identify it as Redwood burl. I excitedly paid the $1.25 asking price for this 91/2" diameter by 31/2" deep burlwood bowl and took it home. I sanded it down and refinished it with about 10 coats of CAB lacquer in a satin sheen. It looks fantastic! Redwood burl is extremely attractive stuff!
Regards,
Kevin
I've been fortunate enough to have aquired a really big slice of redwood burl and 10 @ 2 x 12 tiger redwood boards. The majic of these woods is the reflection of light back out of the grain as it comes out of the wood and dives back in. To bring out this 3 dimensionality ("Chatoyance"), don't ever fill the pores. Use only clear finishes.
I start with two coats of watco. The first is diluted 1:1 with mineral spirits for penetration. After a few days, I sand with 220 and hit it with straight watco again.
Then, I sand with 320 and put on a final, clear, finish. I used to use a varnish or clear laquer brushed on. Now, I use wipe on poly exclusively sanding between 4 - 6 coats with first 320 and then 400.
By leaving the finish transparent to reflections out of the grain, it looks like the bottom of a stream with sunlight refracted through ripples. Hard to describe, but gorgeous!
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