Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 23, 2008 06:27am | #1

   There are hundreds of excellent ways to finish walnut.  Before we can help we need to know what it is you have in mind for the end product.  What kind of piece is being finished?  How will it be used?  What style is it?   Do you like a formal look or more casual style, glossy or dull, with pores filled or visible? 

2. 
   roc | Dec 23, 2008 07:11am | #2

   I will do you one better. I will let Mr. Walnut him self tell you what he likes.

   This is from an article about Sam Maloof

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/FWNPDF/011042052.pdf

   Mr Maloof said:

   I finish-sand the whole chair to 400-grit and apply three
   coats (at two-day intervals) of a three-part finish: equal parts
   of polyurethane varnish, raw tung oil and boiled linseed oil,
   removing all excess oil after each application. I then apply a
   final coat of a mixture I mix up on a double boiler: a half-
   gallon each of tung oil and boiled linseed oil, with a couple of
   handfuls of beeswax grated in. Do this outdoors and be care-
   ful—linseed has a low boiling point. The mixture has a long
   shelf life (stir before using), and leaves a beautiful sheen when
   buffed with a soft cloth.

   Also copied from another artical:

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/FWNPDF/011025048.pdf

   The finish I've used for the longest
   time is oil and beeswax. I take gal. of
   boiled linseed oil and grate in a hand-
   ful of beeswax. It wants to be the con-
   sistency of cream. You have to rub hard
   when you apply it, once a day for three
   days, then buff with steel wool when
   it's dry. I used to use this on all my fur-
   niture except tabletops because a wet
   glass will leave a ring. Now I first apply
   two coats of a three-part finish ( oil,
   thinner, and polyurethane varnish),
   then follow that with two coats of the oil
   and beeswax mix.

   I use his finish on my bubinga projects with some potions and elixirs that I put on first. I like the finish. You can buy it pre mixed and that is what Sam says he now uses. I have some that I mixed up as he recommends and that has worked well for me.

   roc

   Edited 12/22/2008 11:14 pm by roc

   
   

   ---

   Edited 12/22/2008 11:25 pm by roc

3. 
   sapwood | Dec 23, 2008 09:35am | #3

   1. Purchase a good book on finishing. Or check out one or more from your local library.

   2. Do numerous finish samples on some scrap walnut. Prep the wood exactly as you would a finished piece of furniture. Label them. Keep them.

   3. Revel in this experience. Now you will have real knowledge.

4. 
   terrylee86 | Dec 23, 2008 09:58pm | #4

   Like Steve said, it depends on what look you are going for. I build most of my furniture out of walnut and I just spray it with precat lacquer. My walnut is from my land and is kiln dried, but not steamed so the color is much richer and more chocolate and purple. The trees were large so I have little sapwood so I don't stain anything. If you buy walnut on the open market, most of the time it is steamed and kind of bland and a lot of people stain it to get a consistent color. Fill the pores for a more formal look, unfilled for a more casual look. I live in a 127 year old farm house so no formality here. Oil is not a finish, it is more of a colorant then a finish. Use lacquer, varnish or poly, whatever you feel comfortable with.

5. 
   stantheman | Dec 24, 2008 02:02am | #5

   Bill

   no one good answer.  I like to use either garnet or orange shellac. Simple, fast, and gives a nice warm tone.

1. 
   Biscardi | Dec 24, 2008 05:31am | #6

   HP,

   I agree with Stan.Shellac is easiest and works great with walnut. I did a Georgian style desk once in buttonlac with a french polish. The top was book matched huge, wide planks that I traded my son for. I had 20 hrs just in the top. It was gorgeous.The first day at work my boss put a hot plate on it and left a white mark. After I was released from the asylum I've tried a few other things.

    I always thought that staining walnut was crazy. Recently though, I used a water soluable stain made from a mixture of walnut, rosewood and cherry stain on a small plaque. It looked dreadful at first, but after three coats of blonde shellac and two coats of laquer it looked quite nice. I did not rub it out, but left it much glossier than I usually do.

   I have some older walnut furniture I made in the past and just put "Tung oil" or shellac on and it does lighten over time.

   I'd play around with some scraps and see what you like best.

    

   Best regards,

    

   Frank