I have been heating my shop (insulated 2-1/2 car attached garage) with a small kerosene heater for the last few years, and I am considering a more permanant heating system. In-floor heating is not an option, and I am looking to do it as inexpensively as possible. I just can’t justify spending a lot on a system that keeps me warm when I am working on my hobby. Since I am located in the mid-Atlantic region, I am not fighting severe cold. I just want to make it comfortable without having to go out for kerosene every few days- never mind the open flame risk.
Since I have natural gas in the house, I thought radiant heat would be a nice option. Ideally I would install two units- one above the workbench and the other on the opposite side of the room. This arrangement would allow for ‘zoning’ the room as appropriate for its use. If I am just going to be working at teh bench I won’t need to heat the entire room.
It seems to me that I have read of some problems with radiant heat in woodshops in the past. However, I just read an article in another (non-Taunton) pub that seems to suggest radiant is a good option.
Does anyone have experience with these types of systems? I would appreciate any comments about the pros and cons of this heat in the shop.
Thanks.
Jeff
Replies
It has been discussed here a few times. The basic problem is that any wood being "radiated" by the heater, even if it is several feet away will lose moisture quickly from the heated face and warp.
John W.
Edited 11/14/2004 6:19 pm ET by JohnW
Jeff
I live in a similar climate and have a need for some heat and a lot of cooling.
I installed a through the wall heat pump made by Friedrichs. It runs on a 220v 15Amp circuit and will take my garage from the low 50's to 70+ in about 30-45 minutes. It also does a nice job of cooling the shop down in late summer when it typically gets into the 90-100's.
I got it on sale from MSC Direct for about $700 delivered. http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PARTPG=NNLMK32&PMPXNO=5928762
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Michael in San Jose
"In all affairs it's a healthy thing now and then to hang a question mark on the things you have long taken for granted." Bertrand Russell
I use a blue flame unvented heater in my shop.The shop is 600sf and well insulated. Heater is 15000 to 30000 btu's, five heat settings.Does an excellent job, I usually leave the heater on pilot in moderately cool weather, over 40 degrees at night. I have never used the highest setting, usually set the thermostat between two and three. I imagine this is about 20,000 btu,s.When real cold weather comes I leave it on first setting overnight.
These heaters have drawbacks though. Must be kept clean, need some ventilation if your room is fairly airtight.I have double doors leading into the shop, I get enough make up air thru broken astragal on door.Do not use solvent based sprays in shop, I brush rather than spray in winter.
These heaters are inexpensive but a vented heater would be the best option.If you go with these heaters, one might do you. You could pipe the rough in for two heaters and try one to see if that's all you need. I would insulate the walls, ceiling and garage door first if they need it.
mike
I have a 1000+ sq ft. shop in Seattle with 17' ceilings where I recently installed radiant heat. There are six, 2kW 240VAC heaters heating three zones, controlled by three separate thermostats. If I'm the only one working in the shop, and I'm only in one zone, I only turn on that thermostat.
I also have a large, slow speed ceiling fan, to reduce stratification, once the room heats up
Radiant heat is particulary nice if you're not working in the area long enough to heat the room up. It's nearly instant, and it's a better use of the energy dollars than heating the room up, then leaving.
I would have installed gas radiant heaters if my building already had gas service, but the cost to install was too high.
I haven't had drying problems yet, but it should be a small matter to shade the lumber rack, if necessary.
Who makes your radiant heaters and where did you get them? Thanks.
They are Berko™ JRK type heaters (see attachment), and I bought them online from Thermalinc.com <http://www.thermalinc.com/comfort/jrk.htm>The transaction went smoothly and the heaters work well.If you are installing them yourself be sure that you use SJEX cord, or some other high temp. resistant appliance cord.good luck
tms
Thanks for the info!
I live in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan where the winters are cold and long. I use a small electric heater suspended from the cieling. The total space that the heater takes up is about 16x16 inches with bracket. It runs on 220V and has a fan with a thermostat. They can be purchase for about 200.00 at any electrical supply house or big box store. The area I am heating is 28 x40 with 9'2' cieling. This heater has done a great job for two winters at a very low cost to opperate which was approximately 400.00 for the entire winter last year. I also have one of the electric radiant heaters that I purchased from Lee Valley Last year which I have hung from the cieling. I use this in an area where I want a considerable amount of warmth. I heats an arear about 12 x 14 vey nicely.
Garry
I am moving into a newly-built home in Connecticut, and I will have a 600 sf shop in the walk-out basement. The floor is concrete slab. My home heating system is hydro-air, so I do have the possibility of installing radiant hydronic heat under a wooden subfloor. But how do I reflect the heat upwards toward the floor and not down into the concrete slab? Are there any other considerations when taking this approach? Can anyone direct me to any sites that address this application? Thanks!
There are reflectors that are available that are ment to go between the joices. I am not very knowlegable in the heating and cooling. Maybe you should post the question on the Breaktime forum.
Garry http://www.superwoodworks.com
http://hot-dawg.modine.com/
This what I have. I am very, very pleased with it. I use propane with tanks like you find on a travel trailer. I have two connected at one time with a switching regulator so when one tank empties the other takes over. I have a total of 3 tanks, when 2 are empty I get them refilled. About 2-4 times a winter depending on shop use. Last winter it cost me about $1 per day and it does get cold here in Utah. I have a 20X20 shop and it takes 10-12 minutes to bring the room to 68 degrees.
an open flame of any type in a wood shop is not very safe, especially when sanding.dust suspended in the air can cause an explosion and or a fire. this happened to me about 12 years ago. i blew out all the windows in my shop one december while using a balloon sander . a very safe option is a mobile home forced air furnace. these heaters have an enclosed burner which takes in outside air and exhaust to the outside. explosion proof. you can bet a scratch and dent from a dealer for around 200.00. at least thats what i paid for mine. they come in various btu's, so you can size it to fit your shop.
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