Replies

1. 
   JFink | Jan 04, 2008 11:38pm | #1

   I'm sure that many posters here will insist you do a fumed ammonia finish. I don't personaly like the way that makes the wood look.

   I did a library table in QSWO and did a combination of dye and stain. One makes the pigment pop, and the other creates a consistent color for the entire project. I believe I did poly on top, or maybe lacquer, but I honestly can't remember now.

   In any case, if you really want the the flecks to pop, it will take at least a couple of days to finish. Don't worry though, it's certainly not a difficult finish, just requires time to dry between coats, etc.

   There is an FWW article on the subject that I followed, which is teriffic: http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=25256

   Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

   "Everybody wants to know what I’m on...

    

   What I'm on? I’m on my bike, busting my ### 6 hours a day…

    

   ...What are you on?"

    

   - Lance Armstrong

2. 
   BG | Jan 05, 2008 12:20am | #2

   Mike,
   Just to add a bit to Fink's comments, using a non-ammonia method that I have seen is a four step process: dye-shellac-stain-varnish. For a dark finish transtint walnut, shellac, dark jel stain, wipe on varnish. The lighter version is honey amber transtint, shellac, early american minwax, wipe on varnish. I'm sure there are other combinations.

3. 
   Ckenney | Jan 05, 2008 04:03am | #3

   It depends on what look you are after. If you want the antique, dark brown, look, then dark walnut danish oil followed by shellac (clear for a browner look, orange for a more golden hue) is a fairly simple recipe.

   If, however, you like a more modern appearance, then oil/varnish will do quite nicely. Light will bring a lovely depth to the natural wood, and the flecks will shimmer. This is what I did with my dining table (see pic).

   Try a test board with various finishes, see what YOU like!

   
4. 
   woodshaves | Jan 05, 2008 04:57am | #4

   By the time I finish this, there will be probably more suggestions.

   One simple method that looks good: Linseed oil, let it dry, seal with clear shellac. Follow with gell stain, brown or dark walnut (gives an "aged" look), let dry. Topcoat with gell varnish that gives a satin finish (or use a wipping varnish).

   Another: Stain with water-based or alcohol based red mahogany, let dry, seal with clear shellac. Apply (glaze) brown gell stain, let dry. Topcoat with varnish (gell varnish gives you a satin finish, wipping varnish may be rubbed to satin, or topcoat with satin varnish wich I do not like but easier to do).

   Third: Trans Tint honey amber (water-based), let dry, seal with clear shellac. Minwax early American (oil-based), let dry, seal with clear shellac. Apply (glaze) dark walnut gell stain (like Old Masters), let dry. Topcoat with varnish (gell or wipping).

   Happy finishings.

5. 
   Ronaway | Jan 05, 2008 11:14pm | #5

   1948mike said,

   "I'd like suggestions on a simple finish that will show off the rays but not require many coats and days of application"

   Unfortunately there are no quick easy paths to a good quality finish. Take your time and apply a finish that is deserving of the time you've invested in building the piece, you'll be glad you did.

   Ron

   If you're too open minded your brains will fall out.
1. 
   user-83153 | Jan 06, 2008 01:11am | #6

   Ron,

   Exactly! Aren't we all trying to create something lasting and beautiful? If so, why would someone spend days and weeks painstakingly cutting joints, smoothing wood, assembling a project with an eye out for the smallest flaw, and then want to rush through the process that actually brings out the beauty of the wood and helps it to last, as fast as they can.

   I have never understood this. I would love it if someone could explain it to me.

                                    Rob

2. 
   Ckenney | Jan 06, 2008 02:17am | #7

   It depends on what finish you want. Sometimes simpler IS better; if you want the natural beauty of the wood to come through.It seems, nowadays, that everyone seems to take perverse pride in how many steps their finish takes. (Not saying you in particular, just in general.) If they can't add at least 3 color steps, they don't think its worth it.I cringe everytime I watch Norm cover up some beautiful wood with filler, stain and toner, until it looks just as nondescript as the mass produced dreck you can buy at Walmart. (I realize he is often trying to imitate an antique, but the antique didn't start that way. Why not make a repro look the way IT did originally and let it develop its patina, just as the original did. Sigh, tilting at windmills, tilting at windmills...)Look at Nakshima, Krenov and Maloof. I will take their simple finishes anyday for figured AND unfigured wood.(Descending from my soapbox now. Feel free to rebut.)And yes, I do stain and dye when I want to achieve a certain look; but, more often than not, I will go with oil/varnish or shellac.There is no one path. I will say it again: do a test board and find the look that YOU want.

   Edited 1/5/2008 6:23 pm ET by Ckenney

1. 
   saschafer | Jan 06, 2008 02:30am | #8

   "Why not make a repro look the way IT did originally and let it develop its patina, just as the original did."

   I've always wondered the same thing, and am surprised that it never seems to come up in the discussion. If you make a brand new piece look like it's 200 years old, what's it going to look like in 200 years?

   -Steve

    

2. 
   Ronaway | Jan 06, 2008 07:17am | #9

   I have to agree that sometimes simpler is the way to go, and there are a lots of different methods for producing different looks. However even the simpler finishes when done well require a fair amount of effort and sometimes the work is spread over days. The oil varnish hand applied finishes are simple but usually require several days because they are notoriously slow to dry which extends the drying time between applications. Shellac could be considered a faster alternative but even shellac requires some time to cure before the final rub out can be accomplished.My point is this, even the simpler finishing methods still require a good bit of effort, there is no magic formula that achieves the result, is easy, and can be accomplished in an afternoon.When you consider that the original poster asked for a finish that would (1) pop the rays in quarter sawn oak, (2) was simple to apply, (3) and would not require days of application.I'm not aware that a finishing method that meets all these criteria exist.As far as I'm concerned Norm's finishing methods are dictated by sponsorship and are pretty crude by most standards. He is the one that perpetuates the idea that one can build and finish a piece of furniture in a relatively short period of time and there lies some of the problem with people thinking there is an easy road to an exceptional finish.When you do commissioned furniture pieces you are required to have many finishing tools in your arsenal in order to please the many taste of your clients. Some require extensive coloring and others require none, the ones that require no coloring do require careful material selection, however they all require a fair amount of work.RonIf you're too open minded your brains will fall out.

1. 
   Ckenney | Jan 07, 2008 03:26am | #10

   Oh, I agree that, whatever method you choose, the more care you use, the better it will turn out.I was just saying that a simple finish such as oil/varnish (which may take a week, with the multiple coats and smoothing in between) is - I find - often the most beautiful. It will bring out the NATURAL beauty of the ray flecks, which will only grow in depth as time and light marches on.