Replies

1. 
   quatersawn | Apr 23, 2002 08:02pm | #1

   There are probably many folks out there with lots of remidies for you, but I've been working with 1/4 white oak for many years now, and I just glue them up with the grain in mind, not the fleck. Works very well for me, and if you are staining it, it's even less of a concern. There is so much movement in the wood, I've never taken too much time to worry about it, and they have always come out looking great. It's the best looking wood in the world to me. Good luck.

2. 
   StanleyNiemiec | Apr 23, 2002 10:34pm | #2

   The only way that I know to get the fleck (ie the medulary ray) to match is to resaw thicker boards and thereafter book match the pieces.  This isn't going to be perfect either because of kerf loss.

   For all my years of working wood, I find Qsawn white oak to be generally non-problematic vis a vis stability/movement issues.  I impart this to the generally good design of the pieces, and to good MEE* barrier finishes.  But I also think that the relative permeability of white oak heartwood, with the vessel element occulsion with tyloses, is a very positive and contributory factor as well.  With low permeability and a good high MEE finish, the rate of change for moisture content equilibration will be less than more porous woods (eg red oak) with the same finish and greatly less than a porous wood with a low MEE finish.

   *   -  MEE = Moisture Excluding Effectiveness

3. 
   Elcoholic | Apr 24, 2002 10:56pm | #3

   To my eye, don't mix high-fleck and low-fleck boards in a panel or in rails and stiles.  Try to spread the fleck intensity evenly through out the panels.  On large surfaces, I'll put the highes fleck pieces in the center and gradually transition to the low-fleck at the edges.  On posts make sure the fleck is faced the same on the same side.  Unless your doing Stickley - then you need to have fleck on all sides of the posts to do it right.  What the eye will see is contrast before anything else, so manage contrast and you'll come out fine.

   By the way my favorite finish for QSWO is ammonia fuming, linseed oil to pop the figure, yellow/2# orange shellac to warm the grey/green tone, lacquer or poly depending on use, topped off with dark wax.  I go out of my way to get the most fleck I can and I've never seen a stain that shows it off as well.

   John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

1. 
   danwolfram | Apr 25, 2002 04:52pm | #4

   Thanks for your input.  I thought about fuming.  It really darkens the wood, doesn't it?  This is a craddle project for our "on the way", the wife wants the craddle to be light colored.  I was going to try a blonde shellac and let nature take its course.  I wanted to stay away from toxic finishes for this project.

1. 
   Alan | Apr 25, 2002 10:11pm | #5

   Dan,

   The very potent ammonia you would have to use to fume your cradle is nasty stuff.  It's extremely dangerous.  I, for one, am scared to try it.

   More to the point though:  how dark the oak gets depends on how long you fume it (and, I suppose, the strength of the ammonia you use).  I was given a small amount of the ammonia that used to be used in, if memory serves me, the machines that made blueprints (this was some time ago).  I experimented with it by putting a bit in the bottom of a jar and suspending some white oak above it.  Leaving it overnight turned the oak a nice mellow medium color; leaving it in for a night and a day made it a dark brown; and leaving it for a night a day and a night....you get the idea.

   After I removed the oak from the jar I left it in my little shop overnight.  The next morning I could detect no latent odor from the ammonia.  But that doesn't mean there wasn't some other captain nasty lurking in the open pores.

   But, again, the stuff was so awful I never tried it on a full size piece.  And I won't!

   Alan

2. 
   Elcoholic | May 01, 2002 11:35pm | #6

   The color depends on the strength of the ammonia and how long you fume it.  Blueprint ammonia is 28% and will take your head off.  I hated it when it was my turn to change the bottle at work.  Household ammonia is 6% and it just takes longer.  but it is easier to control.  Non-sudsy works best.  I think the detergent inhibits evaporation of the ammonia?  Once the piece as aired out, I don't think that the ammonia leaves any residue that's harmful, but for baby furniture I'd check it out 1st.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne