Replies

1. 
   Pippins | Apr 25, 2008 03:20pm | #1

   ED, you should be able to find a used bandsaw for $500. My advice is to buy one that has a reliable source for repair parts. This requirement may eliminate some of the "old iron" saws out there.     

   You have to be persistent in your search for used equipment. Try watching Craig's list and EBay. Also, network with others at the local woodworking club and visit the local wood suppliers stores.

   I got lucky one day and found a Performax drum sander for sale here on the Knots classified tab. It is a used machine that works great.   

   Steve

2. 
   ASK | Apr 25, 2008 03:33pm | #2

   Why not just rip it on a table saw?

   If the wood is really 2" thick you will only loose 1/8" from the blade which should leave you with enough for the 3/4" for the arms.

   ASK

3. 
   Jimurock | Apr 25, 2008 04:28pm | #3

   I don't know the Hitachi, but I have a 14" Chinese-made Delta with riser, and it would do the cut you mention with ease -- and it's low-powered.  No matter what you buy, you're going to have to learn how to tune the machine for best performance, and you'll have to make or buy a resaw fence.  Why not make a real effort on the saw you have to see if it can handle the job?  The time won't be wasted as you can use the skills acquired on your next machine.

   Jim 

4. 
   oldusty | Apr 25, 2008 04:59pm | #4

     Hi ED,

          My guess is that the arms of the chair are curved ? That being the case it is true you would need to slice the arm from the edge but most likely not a straight line as in resawing .

         The mention of a fresh or sharp blade is a reminder that a dull blade will produce dull results so if your blade is not dull , go with it .

       While still in a square form the curve gets cut then the edges are cut to shape and brought to final size by sanding , scraping or planing .

      Try a smaller version of the same shape cut as a practice run , with the proper toothed blade and tension and correctly set guides you should be able to make a decent cut .

            good  luck           dusty

1. 
   saschafer | Apr 25, 2008 05:17pm | #6

   The arms aren't actually curved, but have a kink near one end, so it's like having two pieces joined end-to-end at a slight angle.

   -Steve

    

1. 
   oldusty | Apr 25, 2008 05:22pm | #7

   morning Steve ,

            How do you know the arms are not curved ? is there a photo I missed ?

       Some chairs of this nature do have a curved arm .

                  regards my friend          soon to be , dusty

1. 
   saschafer | Apr 25, 2008 05:53pm | #8

   Arts and Crafts armchairs having curved arms certainly exist: http://www.stickley.com/OurProducts_Details.cfm?id=2039&Collection=Mission&cat1=88&view=all&view=complex.

   But reading between the lines of the original post, I am confident that he is referring to something along the lines of the stereotypical Morris spindle chair: http://www.stickley.com/OurProducts_Details.cfm?id=1409&Collection=Mission&cat1=88&view=all&view=complex.

   -Steve

    

1. 
   oldusty | Apr 25, 2008 07:44pm | #11

      Steve ,

             You know , at first glance I would call those curves . Your description is more kinky but true to form .

         I always think of them as curved .

                       dusty

2. 
   saschafer | Apr 25, 2008 08:13pm | #13

   I have never been one to shy away from kinkiness. Let your brain free, and all that.

   -Steve

    

3. 
   oldusty | Apr 25, 2008 10:28pm | #14

      Steve , I think I saw you and Lataxe out in the parking lot after a concert .

                     d

                           

2. 
   ElliottDriscoll | Apr 25, 2008 05:58pm | #9

   Yes,

   Indeed they do appear to have a long curve that goes from the front to the back, unless I am reading it completely wrong. 

   I will use the advice that has been suggested, and let you know how it went. 

   By the way, where do people find previously owned equipment for sale?  I live on the East Coast and neither Ebay nor Craig's List seems to turn up with much. 

5. 
   MikeHennessy | Apr 25, 2008 05:09pm | #5

   You should be able to do this on your saw. I believe that the "replace the blade" advice was to minimize cleanup, not eliminate it. No matter what saw/blade you use, you're gonna have to clean up the cut with planes & scrapers and/or sander(s). At worst, you'll need to spend a bit more time on the cleanup part of this task. No biggie. The toughest part is smoothing out the concave side. For that, unless you have a compas plane (not many do) you'll need a belt sander or spindle sander, or even better, a homemade convex sanding block and some elbow grease, no matter what saw you use.

   I'd do a test/practice cut or two to be sure you know how close to the line you can safely get without risking taking too much. You should be able to use a pretty wide blade for this, since the curve is gentle. That'll help it track a bit straighter.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

6. 
   brad805 | Apr 25, 2008 07:17pm | #10

   For used equipment you can check the woodweb classifieds, ex-factory, irsauctions and mlsequipment to name a few.  Most deal in industrial pieces, but I have seen a number of hobbiest ones pop up in the past.  Honestly, a different $500 model probably will not make any difference.  It will be bigger, but probably have the same bearing guide setup.  Carter, lee valley and others sell different blade guides.  I am assuming yours has a common bearing setup.  Mine does too, and it takes some practice to get the setup correct and learn the correct feed speed.  The blade is important too.  Have you tried to find anybody in your area to help you check the bandsaw setup?  You might want to get some cheap lumber and work on the re-sawing and setup and then give the project a whirl with the machine you have.  Another option is to make a template, remove the majority of the material with the BS and then use the template and a router to make it perfect.  The bandsaw will not leave it perfect anyway. 

   Brad

7. 
   Jimurock | Apr 25, 2008 07:50pm | #12

   I hesitate to open the floodgates re. the best way to tune a bandsaw, but if you have access to the FWW files you might like to try Michael C. Fortune's "Five Tips for Better Bandsawing" in FWW # 173.  It's a simple approach that's very successful for me.

   Jim

8. 
   flairwoodworks | Apr 26, 2008 05:15am | #15

   Elliott,

   Though all the advice given so far is sound, I'll go against the grain, so to speak. When I built my verion of the Morris chair with curved armrests, I bent-laminated four layers of 1/4" cherry.  I cut several 2x4s to the profile (which your bandsaw could easily handle), then glued and screwed them together before using a beltsander to smooth out the form.

   Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   oldusty | Apr 26, 2008 05:44pm | #16

     Hiya Chris ,

              I have seen the arms made the way you speak with laminations as well .

            The issue of creating those thin pieces is back to square one for the o p .

         Seems he wasn't sure if his band saw would make that cut , I guess there are other ways to slice the pieces up depending on how tall .

       Did you run your 1/4" laminations through a planer or how did you surface prep them for glue up after the band saw ?

                  dusty

1. 
   flairwoodworks | Apr 27, 2008 05:40am | #17

   I used a thickness planer.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer