I’m Having trouble filling pore satisfactorily. Have used Mohawks oilbased paste pore filler (muddy if applied to raw wood. Doesn’t fill well on top of wash-coat, or pulls wash-coat. Clarity is poor either way.) I fill twice, waiting 24 hrs. between coats. Have also tried Hoods’ lacquer based quick dry pore filler which sands unevenly, and is therefore spotty (sands through, or is o.k., or is cloudy, all three situations present on all projects. Then, even on the best situations, my lacquer (gloss for building coats ) is not bright and clear, but cloudy or grey. I use slow drying thinner and/or a retarder to eliminate blushing and this does not seem to be my problem. Mohawks “gloss” lacquer is called “80%” and Hoods’ looks like satin at best even after trying all the adjustments Hood recommends. Help! Products/results seem to be constantly going downhill.
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Replies
BCraig,
I can't help on the lacquer side of things, but I get excellent results with filler.
I use the oil based filler sold by Constantine's, which I thin to the consistency of heavy latex paint, with naphtha in the winter and mineral sprits in the summer. I apply it over a very thin coat of wiped on de waxed shellac. I allow the filler to really set up, almost the point of panicking me. Then I use a plastic putty knife to scrape it off going across the grain. I let it sit for a few more minutes before wiping fairly lightly, but thoroughly across the grain with burlap. Again I let it sit for a few more minutes, before wiping with the grain using cheese cloth. This leaves the pores well filled, but with no muddying of the surface. I use to apply two coats a day apart, but I found that if I proceed as described above, the results were actually better.
Now, I could say that I arrived at this by careful consideration, but the truth is I once put some filler a door and forgot about it and the rest is straight out Behlen finishing manual.
Rob Millard
http://www.americanfederalperiod.com
Rob has given an excellent description of using pore filler. Oil based fillers won't pull a wash coat of de-waxed shellac. I would suggest some care be given to tinting the pore filler so that it's color enhances the depth of the final finish.
I've also found that pore filler profits by having a week before filling and top coating. The additional cure prevents pores from turning a pale grey down the road.
The one other thing that might be of benefit is before the lacquer top coat you might apply a coat of dewaxed shellac to help keep the lacquer solvents from attacking the binder of the pore filler. That, and/or making the first lacquer coat a very light, dry dusting coat should help prevent muddiness from creaping into the lacquer.
I've also found that pore filler profits by having a week before filling and top coating. The additional cure prevents pores from turning a pale grey down the road.
The one other thing that might be of benefit is before the lacquer top coat you might apply a coat of dewaxed shellac to help keep the lacquer solvents from attacking the binder of the pore filler. (post above)
This is solid advice. Once you have the surface just the way you want it, seal it again with some dewaxed shellac. The lacquer will not bother it and it will adhere very well. If you start rubbing the seal coat, be very careful not to go thru the shellac. If you have any doubts-- apply a little more shellac before applying the final Lacquer finish.
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