Getting ready to pull the trigger on a new cabinet saw, but can’t decide on which one to buy. Any suggestions, comments? Also, looking at jointer but cannot decide whether cost of helical head is warranted.
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Replies
I went with the PM2000 because it is an updated model with lots of new and improved features. The 66 is still a great machine but I think the PM2000 is better overall. I have a full review of the PM2000 with a video and lots of photos at the link below if that woujld help.
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/pm2000rvu.html
Tom Hintz
Because there is always more to learn!
I was torn with the same decision a little over a year ago. I chose the PM-2000. (I wrote the first user review on this saw under the tool guide section.) Powermatic continues to improve on a proven design. The addition of a laminated workbench extension solves the flimsy design originally provided. Enjoy the improved accuracy from either saw you decide upon.
I've had the PM2000 for just over a year and I'm very pleased. To me the riving knife would be the key. My biggest complaint is lack of a blade brake - it seems to take forever to stop and it doesn't make any noise when coasting.
I have been using a sawstop saw at the local community college shop and it is a really nice saw not even considering the safety feature. A friend of mine has a powermatic 66 in his shop and it's a really nice saw as well. I have not tried the PM 2000. Good luck
Troy
Thanks to all for the input. I think I am leaning toward the PM 2000 at this point. It is, however, a tough decision after working on the 66 and 72 all those years in shop class. Thanks again.
For whatever is worth.... I am an amateur cabinet maker, I had a Jet hybrid, not enough power. I finally decided months ago on the Powermatic 2000, I am very happy with it. Highly recomended.
John Cabot
Cdatty,
I've had a 66 with full length extension and tables/Biesemeyer extended blade guard and fence and over for 12 years and it is a real workhorse and very accurate. When the metal is warmed up and using a calibration disc in blade position, it holds at .0018 to .0026 on the left hand miter slot. I can hold the rear of the fence out at about .003 but I run it at .004, which is where I prefer it for longer stock runs. (the fence isn't milled so all in all that's pretty good - after all it is woodwork). I suppose one could always have milled bar stock attached to their fence.....
I have an after market removable rive on it. The are lots of times I don't want the rive in place. Rives are important though and a good selling point on the 2000. Use to have an Excaliber slider on the left with the wing removed. Still accurate.
Great saw. Sits on HTC roll around set.
American made. Memphis?
Understand that with the exception of the first run of production, all 2000's are made in China.
2000 has better access to power switch, both 66 and 2000 are magnetic switches. The roll around is a good idea but if you have an extension, it also needs to have integral wheels firmly rigid to the cabinet wheels or every time you move the saw, you will be torquing the table top and very probably having to reset the 3 top to base nuts to true the saw up again. If you build your own platform base for moving it around (under the saw all the way to extension legs) with retractable casters you will have a great platform. Plus room to put drawers, shelves,router parts push sticks etc.
I think most of us could build a better Extension table for both saws. Have looked at 2000's "workbench" top.
Not sure about expansion/contraction of wood relative to rails. My experience is that much like grass coming up through the road, wood will bend steel. Cute but just marketing IMHO.
If I were buying a new one now I would look at the Saw Stop because of the quality and safety.
Hope some of this may help in your decision.
John
Edited 1/2/2008 12:21 pm by boilerbay
Ordered a Saw Stop yesterday, after the local Woodcraft let me demo one. Solid machine. I really hated to part with the extra grand, but the peace of mind probably is worth that. It should make the job of teaching my teenage son how to use the tablesaw a little less stressful. Thanks again to all for your input.
I got the PM2000, mainly for the riving knife.
Overall, I am very pleased. I have not used the PM66, but what I have compares very well with the 1960s Unisaw I used in high school/college.
Motor and cabinet are built in China, fence is made in US.
I like what I bought.
Probably not a deal-maker, but certainly interesting - you can customize your PM2000. Choose your motor, blade guard, extension wing, colour, put your name on it, etc.
http://www.powermaticcustom.com/
Chris @ flairwoodworks
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
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