Hello,
Beginner here looking for some advice on purchasing hand planes. I currently have a low angle block plane. I’m looking to to add smoothing and trimming type planes. There’s lots out there like #4, #4.5, #5 jack, scaper, joiner,bull nose, shoulder, chisel, combination etc. What should I start with, considering I don’t have any. I know that it probably depends on what I’m going to do. But as I said I’m a beginner hobbiest and I don’t really know. Trimming joints, smoothing panels after they have gone throught my planer. Generally will be building small furniture projects around the house. Book cases, coffee table, work bench and shop stuff. Can anyone please offer some advise…….Thanks Ed
Replies
Ed, I would say your best bet is to start with a #5. It's an all around plane if set up properly. From there your starting down a slippery slope, and before you know it you won't be able to stop. You have been warned :). A shoulder plane is great for fine tuning tennons and is handy to have in the shop. Other planes like combination planes and other specialty planes can wait till later, as you probably won't use them as frequently.
Are you planning on buying new or used? If you're buying new you can't go wrong with Lie-Nielsen or Veritas planes. If your buying used learn how to tune up a plane and start hunting.
Thanks for the response Andrew. I am buying new and your advice is just what I was looking for. A #5 is where I'll start. One other question the catalog I have that has L-N planes in it show #1, #2, #4 bench planes and then it jumps to a low angle jack plane (based on a stanley #62 14" long).....is this equivalent to a #5?
Go to the L-N web site to see the full line. You can buy from them (which I like to do becuase I just love that company) or you can get a slight discount from a couple of internet sites, which have been mentioned in prior threads. You will love the L-N's if you haven't tried them yet. It is a plane of a different class. When available, I go for the bronze becaseu they do not rust, and my shop is in the basement, which in the Philadelphia area can be damp at times.
Edevo,
As Andrew warned, you will want them all..I know I do. I started with the #5 then went to the #7 then the block..hand scrapers are very important. Next I want a scrub and a smoother. Then I'm finished...ha,ha,ha
Bg,
Now I'm finished, Yeah Riiiiiigggghhhhttttt! ROFLMAO Finished! Whooo boy.
Mark
My first plane was a #6 and then it took off form there I have about 200 of them now and I am still looking. I don't buy many new ones but I have used both the L-N and the Lee Valley. I like the LV planes but the look and feel of the LN are just a step above. But as you have been told once you buy one it snow balls.
Scott C. Frankland
Was the Newfoundland Wood Worker now the Nova Scotia Wood Worker.
Ed,
I think one of the most versatile planes is the block. If you get the L-N adjustable mouth low angle block plane, adjust the mouth to fairly narrow and sharpen well, it will do just about anything you ask of it. Good success and much happiness, all the more to embolden you toward bench planes. There, the L-N 5 1/2 is extremely versatile too. You can get a long way on these. Read about how they work and learn to sharpen well; you'll be "hooked"... which brings us to scrapers, but that's another story.
Cheers,
Greg
Everyone has their favorite. For me, it is the block rabbet plane. This guy will fit a tenon or a half lap in short order, dead on. Now I routinely cut my mortises first, then cut the tenon oversized by about 1/32 or so, and then fit by hand. Same with half lap, and bridle joints. Quick, perfect, and quite satisfying. It is the one L-N I would most miss.
s4s - glad to hear your favorite L-N is the block rabbeting. I ordered the block Rabbet about a week ago and received a letter today from Garret Wade saying it's still backordered. Wait wait wait.
Is that the relatively new one based on a Sargent design? I've heard it's superb. I already have the low angle block and the skew rabbit with nicker, which I use as you describe. The only tricky bit is the distortion which occurs when the side is removed for rebating, which then requires care in evening out the blade depth across its width. I do think the blocks in general are a good place to start. Versatile and confidence building.
EDEVO if you are buying new and looking at a #4, consider the Clifton. $100 less with a great blade and 2-piece cap iron. Those cool looking square sides on the L-N (Stanley Bedrock too) dig into your front hand on #4 and less. I think maybe its one of those things that, having paid so much, folks don't complain.
Ed,
I'm sure others will disagree with me but if your going to use it and not abuse it and not going to use them hard like in a buisness situation I'd say go to a place like Home Depot or maybe even a well stocked hardware store. I have a Stanley low angle hand plane that I paid less than $20.00 for I have older antique planes that were once my grandfathers I also have some older Baileys and Stanly's but when I'm just taking off a little material from a corner or just trimmining to scribe an edge for caninets I always seem to grab the inexpensive low angle Stanley. I just use my oil stone and then I use several grits of sandpaper to 800 to 1000 grit on a straight flat peice of "1/4 steel to keep it razor sharp. I was in the local Home Depot the other day and seen some pretty nice Buck brothers hand planes I dont own one of their planes but I do have a set of their lathe turning tools I've used them quite a few times and they seem to do a really nice job. I keep them like with my hand planes very sharp and they seem to hold an edge really good it just depends on the type of wood thats being turned on how fast they get dull and need to be resharpened. Well Good Luck on your decission and to you I say Have Fun Creating Sawdust.........
Sincerely,
Jim Clark at the "PUTTERIN YANKEE"woodworking shop
Doc,
I won't disagree with you. I bought the Stanley low angle block plane and spent a few hours doing the scary sharp on the blade and sole of the plane. Terrific !
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