Replies

1. 
   nikkiwood | Jun 06, 2004 07:39pm | #1

   I started years ago with the PC model 330, which I assume has the same basic guts as the 333. I really liked its configuration, and the way it fit my hand.

   But after a year or so, the orbital action would perceptibly slow down, making the swirl marks more pronounced. I finally took it in and was told the bearings had worn; repairing it would cost about 2/3 the price of a new sander. I had it fixed, but the same thing happened again in about 2 years.

   Through that period I bought two additional 330's (I really did like that handle) -- and it was the same problem once more.

   I finally gave up, and went to another brand.

   I never did understand why PC would not remedy this problem; for years the 330 was the dominant 1/4 sheet orbital sander, and could probably have remained so -- if they had just used better bearings. Go figure ..............

   So, you are not alone in having problems with this series of PC sanders.

1. 
   Booger | Jun 06, 2004 09:11pm | #5

   Thanks guys and gals, you answered my question after 20 years of using rockwell/porter cable I guess I might try another brand (bosch)?? I don't have time or patience to replace bearings every couple months. Thanks again James aka booger

1. 
   PlaneWood | Jun 06, 2004 09:18pm | #6

   Gees, I've had a 330 for years (at least 10), use it every day, and it is still going strong.  I blow it out occasionally with my air hose.  Have replaced the pad to many times to count.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

1. 
   Booger | Jun 06, 2004 09:40pm | #7

   My point exactly, I have 8 to 10 year old 333 that still runs fine, purchased 5 in last two years, all but one is down. Older is better? James

1. 
   Sancho | Jun 07, 2004 05:19am | #9

   Just for giggles did you buy it at HD or blowes??? 

   Darkworksite4:

   El americano pasado hacia fuera ase la bandera

2. 
   Booger | Jun 07, 2004 06:34am | #10

   Last two I bought at sears, they brought in a few for x-mas and blew them out for $40.00 each after the holidays. Lost receipt or I would trade them in. James

3. 
   EdHarrow | Jun 07, 2004 06:40am | #11

   Interesting.  I just came across this near exact same discussion on another board.  One party noted that new PC sanders feature chinese bearings...

   I have a 333 that is old, but I don't for certain.  I guess it doesn't suffer the worst abuse, but I have replaced the pad a couple of times.  It's true, "They don't make them like they used to..."  :-(

2. 
   Paul_Snyder | Jun 06, 2004 07:43pm | #2

   James,

   I keep a few of those bearings on hand since they are the first thing to wear out on the sander. You can replace the bearing a few times before the rest of the sander is worn out beyond repair.

   If you're using the dust catcher on the sander, that will hasten the bearing wear. I attach a vacuum to the sander exhaust and get a much longer life from the bottom bearing.

   I've ordered the bearing from an authorized PC distributor was wasn't happy with how long it lasted. So I started ordering the bearing from Grainger and the bearings they have last a lot longer.

   Paul

1. 
   nikkiwood | Jun 06, 2004 08:24pm | #3

   to Paul S

   As I said earlier, I have 3 PC 330 sanders sitting idle because of bearing problems.

   A few questions:

   1) Would the bearings you use in the 333 also work in the 330?

   2) If you don't know, could I check just by calling the PC service desk?

   3) Can the PC people give you the correct bearing part #?

   4) How do you convey this number to Grainger, in order to get a comparable bearing?

   5) Finally, you imply that changing out the bearings is simple -- is it straightforward enough that you could write out instructions here?

   I have the mechanical ability of a gnat, so I would be grateful for your help.

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Jun 07, 2004 12:19am | #8

   Replacing the bearing isn't too hard or time consuming once you get the hang of it.

   1) Would the bearings you use in the 333 also work in the 330?

   I haven't replaced any parts on the 330, so I don't know the answer...

   2) If you don't know, could I check just by calling the PC service desk?

   The service manual for each sander has a parts list with the part numbers of the individual components. You could see if the parts numbers match. If you don't have the manuals on hand, the service center can check for you.

   3) Can the PC people give you the correct bearing part #?

   Sure.

   4) How do you convey this number to Grainger, in order to get a comparable bearing?

   If you call the Grainger parts center, just tell them the sander model number and describe the location of the bearing. They'll look it up for you.

   5) Finally, you imply that changing out the bearings is simple -- is it straightforward enough that you could write out instructions here?

   Sure;

   1. Remove the pad by removing the 3 screws.

   2. Remove the rubber band like piece from the turbine like fan blade and stationary post.

   3. Remove the allen head screw from the turbine fan blade.

   4. Lift the turbine fan off the motor shaft. The bearing comes with the fan blade.

   5. Flip the turbine fan over and remove the "C" clip that holds the bearing in place.

   6. Tap out the bearing; it's tight and you may need to use a large socket that aligns with the shell/case of the bearing to tap it out.

   7. Clean the turbine blade surface where the bearing was seated using steel wool or very fine sand paper. A quick rub around the surface should do the job.

   8. Press the new bearing into the turbine fan blade. Again, the socket may come in handy. Replace the "C" clamp.

   9. Clean the sanding dust between each of the turbine blades as needed.

   10. Replace the turbine fan blade and allen head screw.

   11. Replace the rubber band doohicky that keeps the turbine from spinning freely.

   12. Replace the sanding pad. Be careful not to overtighten the screws and strip them out.

   Paul

   Furniture Finish Wizard

1. 
   nikkiwood | Jun 07, 2004 07:39am | #12

   re: instructions for changing bearings.

   Thanks. I have saved all my old manuals, so getting to the right part shouldn't be hard.

   But --- wow, already!! Those are a great set of instructions. I figure the only person who could write that clearly and concisely must have teacher or writing training somewhere in their background. At least I know you're not trained as a lawyer or engineer, none of whom seem to be able to write their way out of a paper bag.

   Nice job. Thanks again.

1. 
   Tao | Jun 07, 2004 08:27pm | #14

   As an aside-- I used to go through a lot of routers -- tried all the brands available at the time. Bearings failed on all of them.

   Finally settled on Bosch -- they didn't last any longer, but the bearings were easiest to replace.  They could be switched out in our shop in just a  few minutes -- much cheaper to repair than all the others.

   Bearings wear out.  Cheap bearings wear out faster, and they wear out faster in a dirty envirionment.  I have a couple of 333's that had pretty hard use for a number of years with no problems.  Since they are so easy to repair, If I ever did have a bearing problem, I'd just replace the bearing with the best quality I could find and keep using it until the commutator wore out.

   Michael R.

2. 
   kevarc | Jun 08, 2004 07:50pm | #15

   If you have the part number Grainger should be able to match it up real quick. They are fairly sharp. If you cannot find a part number and have one handy, it is faster to go there.

   We are keeping 4 old steam turbines, 1970-1980 vintage units, and their people are excellent at matching things to keep them running. BTW, I work for a municipal utility.Kevin Arceneaux

   Visit the Lone Wolf Activities for MS Trainsimulator at http://www.3dtrains.com

3. 
   user-5880422 | Jun 06, 2004 08:39pm | #4

   hmmm, I've had a 333vs for at least 3 years and no problems, except needing to replace the H&L pad once.

   I remember reading somewhere that there is no faster way to burn up the bearings in one of these than letting them spin freely with no load.

4. 
   ETG | Jun 07, 2004 04:43pm | #13

   Unfortunately, Porter-Cable is not alone with problems.  A friend used to sell electronic components and he called on the Black & Decker (aka DeWalt) plant in Easton Maryland (now shut down - moved to China).  One small component he sold was priced at $.10 each; one day the purchasing agent said he has a new supplier - off shore - that can do the same thing for $.05 each.  My friend picked up several of the competitor's components and had them tested.

   Lo and behold, they did not meet the B&D Engineering Spec as part of the purchasing agreement.  When confronted with this info, the B&D purchasing chap said "that's Quality Assurance and Engineering's problem, I just buy the stuff."  Living in the shadow of B&D corporate, it's like a revoling door - executives come and go - and you see ads for engineering and QA folks - I wonder why?

5. 
   terryb | Jun 16, 2004 07:39am | #16

   Same thing happened to me. I took the thing apart and the big bearing was not turning. I popped off the shields and the bearing was caked in sawdust. I cleaned it out with carb cleaner or some-such, regreased it and put it all back together and it works fine. I figured PC might want to know about the seal problem so I e-mailed them. A rep called the next day and told me they hadn't seen problems with this bearing except when sanding drywall. If it happens again, I'll go down to a bearing company and buy a different brand - this one's made in china. The bearing itself seems fine. Just bad seals. Hope this helps

6. 
   SRToolguy | Jun 18, 2004 06:07am | #17

   Yep, its a problem and I don't expect it to get fixed anytime soon either. P/C and Delta are in the process of being sold... There are rumours about to whom but nothing in the press yet. Most of the other P/C products seem to be as stable as ever. As for Delta products, I havent seem much difference in their quality. It hasn't gotten any better or worse.

   For RO sanders, I would go with the Bosch or, suprising as it may seem, the DeWalt. Makita seems to be making an effort to bring their products into the age of the millenium also so take a good hard look at them too.

   Sincerely;

   The Tool Guy

7. 
   bill_1010 | Jun 20, 2004 07:10pm | #18

   upgrade to a Fien or even better a festool sander and you wont be replacing sanders.  If youre worried about cost, buy a Bosch or makita.

   Also right angle sanders will hold up to wear sooo much better then palm sanders for daily use. Palm sanders are light duty, and youre asking it to do heavy duty work. 

1. 
   Adrian | Jun 21, 2004 06:11pm | #19

   Or air-powered sanders....'course, you need air, but you won't be replacing electric sanders all the time.

   P-C has known about those problems for ages; I remember bringing several into a repair shop where I used to live....they had lots of them there for repair. Said they saw way more P-C's than anything else. I have a bunch here in my school shop, same troubles....eventually, I'll have all air or much better quality electric sanders.

   personally, i believe they (electric sanders) are made to be disposable.....cheaper to buy new ones than fix them, when you're doing it for a living.cabinetmaker/college woodworking instructor. Cape Breton, N.S

8. 
   TomB | Jun 23, 2004 05:23am | #20

   had the same problem with my p.c. sander. took the bearing to the local dealer and could have bought a new sander for the price. went to my nearest bearing shop and he looked at it and laugh . when told what they were for his reply was that they were made to wear out. No dust seal, just a steel slinger to keep out the sanding dust. sold me a set of bearings for approx. $25.00 Canadian. put them in the next day any away we go . Seemed a little slow at first, possible due to tight bearing as opposed to worn out, but work ok for about 1/4 of the price from p.c..Not hard to put in if you can use a screwdriver and a hammer. see if you have the original owners manual for a parts blow up of the sander. It helps to see what is under the covers first. good luck.

   Tom B.

9. 
   SRToolguy | Sep 18, 2004 07:56am | #21

   Booger, not sure if you've got the correct answer yet or not. So, here it is anyway... The PC 332/333 are a couple of the few ROS sanders out there that don't easily stall. Because of this folks tend to use it improperly. In this I mean that they are applying way too much downward force because they can without stalling out the sander. Most likely they do not even realize they are doing this. The excessive downward pressure is whats causing the bearings to fail and not lesser quality. So.... lighten up, the sander will work just as well with just its own weight and last a lifetime without bearing failure. I school all of my ROS customers in the proper sanding technique to be used with ROS palm sanders.

   The alternative is to switch to the barell style ROS with the side handle which help you to stop applying excessive down pressure.

   Sincerely;

   The Tool Guy

1. 
   jc21 | Sep 19, 2004 07:32am | #22

   I mentioned your problem to a PC rep at a tool show last week and he indicated that they've switched back to a better quality bearing. Fwiw, my early 1.7 amp 333 has seen plenty of use and is still going strong.

10. 
    JMartinsky | Sep 20, 2004 01:44pm | #23

    I apologise if someone else has brought up this point already, but are you buying them from Home Depot or similar? I noticed a few years ago that I was having trouble with tools from the "big box" stores and have stopped buying from them. I buy from tool stores or Amazon.com only. It was posted here a while ago that the manufactures make a "special" line for the "big boxes", I thought that they may be dumping thier "seconds". Either way I have two PC 333s, one from HD, one from Coastal Tool.....guess which one gives me problems!

    Good Luck!

    John

1. 
   SRToolguy | Sep 22, 2004 06:05am | #24

   I doubt that PC dumps their seconds on Big Box stores since the reputation of the product line would be at much greater jepordy in a big box then it would in a lower volume store. I suspect that the higher sales volume is causing the defective units to show up more often than in the smaller stores. The bearing problem has now been confirmed which teaches me to not always believe what the rep tells you. That has been corrected.

   It may not always be possible to avoid the defective units but you can try to find out which production runs are having problems and avoid them. Sometimes it is coded on the box and other times it is within the serial numbers. Getting the information can be difficult and sometimes impossible but its time well spent if you can avoid a potentially problematic tool.

   For the record, the resellers often don't know when there is a problem with a unit and will continue to sell it until it becomes obvious. It really ticks me when I find out that I've been selling something that has potential problems. Its happend to me on a few occasions and when I've asked the rep they usually admit to the problem. That's when I really steam! I have the unique advantage of being able to get even so have no fear, your wish for vengence is being delivered.

   Sincerely;

   The Tool Guy

   Edited 9/21/2004 11:10 pm ET by Tool Guy