Replies

1. 
   oldusty | Feb 20, 2009 06:17am | #1

        Hello JR ,

                      If you are speaking of floor to ceiling type of cabinets ,, what I do is build a loose toe kick or base support .

    I fasten the kick to the floor or wall , shim to level , you can screw through the floor of the cabinet if you need to pull it down .

   Most household custom built cabinetry like this do utilize toe kicks and often they are recessed 3 " in front and 3/4" or more on the ends .

       So the math you need to know is this :

                                              ceiling ht = say 96"

                                              pantry depth say 25"

      measure the same toe as the rest of the kitchen

                                           toe ht say 3 1/2"

       take 96" minus the toe ht 3 1/2" = 92 1/2" you need a tad more clearance against the ceiling I deduct an extra 1/2" , and usually they slide in easily .

         So in this example the face would be 92 "

        before you build it lay it out and check the diagonal length of 92" X 25" or the actual size make sure it will clear to stand it up without the toe .

                    "how good we are is how good we fix our mistakes"

                             regards             dusty

    

2. 
   ASK | Feb 20, 2009 05:12pm | #2

   Agreeing with Oldusty and something I learned from my father-in-law. Before you build it MEASURE THE SPACE. Floor to ceiling: at the back, both corners and at the front both corners. Last thing you want to do when sliding it is, is that the floor or ceiling isn't level.

   ASK

3. 
   dondownunder | Feb 21, 2009 09:11am | #3

   Usually installing a cabinet only 3" less than the ceiling height is avoided because of the fitting issue. Dusty mentioned the use of a kick which is one solution we have employed. However if the intention is to have a 'walk-in' pantry where the floor continues into the pantry, then we would instal in 2 peices locating the top inner melamine carcass onto the lower with biscuits then adding seperate end panels to each side (or one if a wall lies to one side or the other). The join between the top & bottom can be hidden by a fixed shelf. A bulkhead can be slid into the space at the top to locate crown moulding & screwed in place from below.

   Don

4. 
   Tomrocks21212 | Feb 23, 2009 02:10am | #4

   Usually a 2-piece assembly is used, but I've had cabinets show up on site that were one piece and too tall to stand up in the space. What to do??

   Almost all full-height cabinets I've installed were in the middle of the run (hiding the sides of the base), permitting this method:

   Measure the height of the ceiling, and subtract 1/2", more if the ceiling's out of whack.

   With the cabinet on its side, hook your tape to the top front edge. Swing an arc down to the toe kick with the above dimension. Your mark should be at the back of the toe kick, where the floor and wall meet.

   Cut the marked line, repeat on the other side, flip the unit on its back, and stand the cabinet up on the cut, and jockey it into place.