This question descends from the “Macintosh writing desk” string.
So I’ve built the MDF prototype. It took about a day, spread over the weekend, and it works. I wanted a small scale, stylish writing cabinet, and the Macintosh concept is great. I’m going on to make a couple of versions in solid wood this (Southern) summer.
Meanwhile, I’ve got this MDF prototype that looks pretty cool. Too good to scrap. But it is MDF. So, what about painting it? Me and brushed or sprayed finishes are, like, complete strangers.
I’m thinking about sending it out (just like the Orange County Choppers guys).
Or, how hard would it be to produce a good painted (or stained) finish in my shop?
Advice appreciated!
New Zealand | New Thinking
Edited 11/21/2004 3:29 am ET by kiwimac
Replies
Not hard at all. Surface paints well, edges more of a problem.
Easiest solution: slather some drywall compound over the edges with your finger. Sand when dry. Give whole piece two coats of primer. Then two coats of the top coat of your choice (oil/alkyd best if brushing -- no brush marks).
Nikkiwood is right about the edges. Drywall compound works great. I've also had good luck with an oil based spray primer.
I'm not sure how big this is, but try a quality aerosol paint. Thin coats will prevent "runs" and it looks great.
Spray cans work fine, but there's a lot of overspray and they wouldn't cover the whole desk. Considering the small amount of money tied up with the prototype, I would use this as a unique opportunity to learn to spray. If you have a compressor, Harbor Freight has a conversion gravity feed HVLP spray gun that lists for $80, but on sale it's $40. I got one, not expecting very much. For Minwax poly, it worked great. For paint, thinned to the correct viscosity, I expect it to work just as well. If you see runs, immediately wipe them off if they're on a detail surface. If they're on a flat part, sand them off after it dries. Spraying can save a lot of time, especially with stains, since the amount of time the stain is on a surface determines how far it penetrates and on detailed pieces, there will be a shorter time span if you spray instead of wipe it on. With HVLP, there's a lot less overspray than a regular gun(maybe 10%) and by the time the overspray landed on the surfaces in my shop, it was dry already.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Thanks
This is an experimental piece, and all I have in it is a few hours of fun with my Minimax panel saw and a shop-damaged sheet of 1 inch MDF (reduced to $US30 ). Maybe it is time to experiment with a spray setup. trouble is I only have a smallish workspace, spraying/painting outside is impossible (airborne debris - early summer in New Zealand), and I usually make fairly small stuff in solid wood and use a wiped-on finish.
Aerosol can is feasible. I spent a bit of time last night cruising thru FWW Design Books, and think I like the idea of a semigloss black finish. I suppose I could get that out of a DIY spray can.
kiwimac 2
MDF paints up really well. The secret to getting good edges is to prime them first, let them dry & rub back before then coating the whole piece, including the edges. If you can't/don't want to spray (using a gun) try Dulux Prepcoat as a primer/undercoat (GP acrylic available in most hardware stores). You could then use a pressure pack, roller or brush to put on your top coat.
Don't worry about the edges furring up under the first coat as they can be rubbed back.
Good luck & let us know how it turns out.
Don
Thanks mate, I reckon that's what I'll do. I'll post a photo when I'm finished, if I can knock my photo capture software into shape!New Zealand | New Thinking
Highfigh,
what compress do you use with that HVLP gun? It sounds like it works ok for the cost. How well can you spray vertical surfaces? Does the poly come out smooth??
Kiwimac,
I have painted MDF and it comes out nice. I think the secret is to get as smooth of a finish as possible. The may be a good chance to try a veneer. You will have to paint less. It is a prototype.
They recommend at least a 20 gallon tank and 9-12 CFM @15-50 psi, depending on the viscosity of the finish. I happen to have a 60 gallon tank on mine, but a bigger tank just keeps the compressor from having to turn on too often. Vertical surfaces are no problem, so you need to make sure it doesn't go on too thick in order to avoid sagging. With practice, it works great. Way less overspray than my other gun. Wear a mask and long sleeves, anyway.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
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