I’ve got a small-ish cabinet I’ve made out of some very white hard maple. I’d like to preserve the white color, but on a test piece found that even the purest blonde shellac would impart a slight cast to the wood.
So I am going to use “Hydrocoat Resisthane Plus Pre-Catalyzed Lacquer Clear Gloss”.
I know that everyone says with Hydrocoat “you gotta spray it”, or at the very least cut with water before brushing carefully. I have no spray equipment, and no desire to buy any and learn how to use it for this one-shot cabinet.
I tried padding it on with a cotton pad I made from an old tee shirt, but it felt sticky as I padded it on, and the padding marks were quite visible. I am guessing that it was drying immediately and would not “blend in” like shellac. I prepped the surface by planing with a sharp handplane then sanding up to 3000 (!) grit.
So any suggestions on how to make padding on work with this product?
Dan
Replies
I don't understand. You have bought a product that is best sprayed, and that if done properly (which means fast not "carefully") can be brushed, with the intention of using a third technique--padding. I can understand not wanting to buy spray equipment, but suitable brushes can be had for less than $30.
There are plenty of other water clear waterborne acyrlic finishes that will be easier to brush, because they have been set up to dry more slowly.
In addition, your maple will change color, becoming more amber over time because of the natural properties of the wood. Mother nature will win in the end.
Steve,Thanks for the quick reply! I wanted to try padding because it has worked so successfully for me with shellac. One of the things I read about this product is that when brushing it is easy to get it on too thick - I thought padding would be great since it applies the finish so much thinner than with a brush. Perhaps too thin in retrospect!I forgot to mention that I chose the Hydrocoat because it is one of the least toxic clear finishes. Anyways, I will try diluting it a bit and seeing if that helps, as well as padding it on a bit more thickly.Also, what kind of bruch would you suggest for this product if I decide to go that route?Thanks,Dan
All clear finishes are non-toxic when cured. I wouldn't consider that factor at all.
The hydrocote is less hazardous to breathe at least compared to solvent based pre-cat lacquer. You still want adequate ventilation given the dipropylene glycol methyl ether solvent listed as a hazardous ingredient in the MSDS, though it is less hazardous than ethylene glycol ethers which appear in other water borne finishes. I suspect you can find other waterborne finishes with the propylene based glycol ether instead of the ethylene based. But unless you use a lot, just ensuring adequate ventilation while you are applying the finish should be adequate particularly if you are not spraying. Spraying puts a much higher concentration of solvents into the air than brushing.
If I had to brush it, I would use a watercolor wash brush, Taklon gold bristles, much like I would use for brushing shellac. These brushes have very fine bristles, and carry very little material. You would have to work quickly, laying on the thin coats without attempting to go back and brushout the finish. It's basically a one stroke process.
I AM NOT A FINISHER BY ANY MEANS. But I have used felt wrapped along a sharp pointed wedge that will leave a nice coat of finish.. As in Corners to the middle..
If asked, the manufacturer will state not to add and water at all. They will not guarantee the product if you thin.
Water is not a thinner for waterborne finishes. Water is only a carrier of the other chemicals that make up the finish. Those chemicals are suspended in the water, not dissolved. That's the reason the finish is referred to as "waterborne", not "waterbased". As the water evaporates, it allows the other chemicals to come into contact and coalesce or combine. Adding water will move the chemicals apart and they may not properly combine into a durable, complete finish.
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