Replies

1. 
   Kevin | Aug 27, 2003 05:30am | #1

   I'm not sure what solvents are in "Old Masters" stain. It wouldn't surprise me if there were naptha or something similiar in it. I'm not sure why it's presence would have to pose a problem, though. Unlike silicone, any naptha would evaporate. Give it 12 - 24 hours dry time before putting your finish over it and it should be fine. Just by way of comparison... naptha will evaporate quicker than mineral spirits (aka paint thinner).

   Why not go with a water-based stain or dye?

   Regards,

   Kevin

1. 
   woodfloorman | Aug 27, 2003 05:53am | #2

   thanks for the input. as i said, i use moisture cure urethane, which is a urethane with an epoxy additive.  that stuff is super hard. water based finishes can also be very hard, but they don't bring out beautiful color that moisture cure does, and the good water based finish is very expensive!  moisture cure is the same price as an inexpensive poly, but WAY harder. so with epoxy, if you pour in some naptha it will curdle. looks like spoiled milk, or something. so one time i used a stain, red devil i think, and applied moisture cure, and the finish "fish eyed" somethin' terrible!  i read the can, and it had naptha in it. i had waited over 24 hours in between too.

        peace

2. 
   woodfloorman | Aug 27, 2003 06:02am | #3

   oh, and in answer to your question, i have never tried a water based stain or dye. i would have to do a test to see if that would work, right off the top of my head i wouldn't think that it would, but you never know. epoxy is kind of picky.  i have a friend who uses dyes, i'll have to ask him.

         peace

1. 
   Kevin | Aug 27, 2003 06:37am | #4

   Yeah, I've heard about the moisture cure products from a friend in the industry. I've never tried any, though. I do use automotive epoxy primer/sealer fairly regularly. Not the same thing. But, I'm familiar with having to get any and all contaminents off first.

   If your friend recommends looking into the water-based dyes or stains, check into Sherwin Williams. They've reformulated their liquid dye concentrates so that they can be reduced with water, alcohol, or any of about half a dozen other solvents - all of which are at least partially misible with water. They also have a water-based intermix stain system where there's a bunch of cans of different base colors and you mix them according to your own formula to custom fit whatever it is that you're trying to match. I have both stain lines at my work.

   Regards,

   Kevin