Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | May 09, 2007 04:39pm | #1

   I'd keep the processes separate.  Finish first, then wax.  For the oil finish I would use an oil/varnish finish, such as Watco, or you can mix your own with the typical 1/3 linseed, 1/3 varnish and 1/3 thinner.  These finishes will ofter more protection than the virtually none offered by linseed oil alone, but will look substantially the same.  Then when these have cured you can apply the wax of your choice. 

1. 
   WillGeorge | May 11, 2007 11:05pm | #7

   Peter Gedrys Video on FineWoodworking is great about using wax coloring.. BUT.. I think it is UN-finished.. I guess you have to go to his classes to get it all.. All I could afford is the class.. NOT the trip AND motel 8 I would have to stay at!I have always use WAX ALOT but I have never figgured out how to properly preserve what you have made with some type of final finish..As I understand it, new wax removes thr old wax?

1. 
   SteveSchoene | May 12, 2007 05:08am | #8

   In my mind, wax is the final treatment--it is barely a finish, so the idea is that you can "renew" the wax treatment when ever it needs it, you can't preserve it.  Some of the color effects from wax can be duplicated fairly well with glazes, which cure, and then can be protected by a top coat. 

   And, yes new wax can remove old wax, or rather the solvents that soften the new wax for use also soften the old wax so that buffing removes both new and old, leaving only a film which is a mix of both.  Of course naptha or mineral spirits removes wax too. 

1. 
   WillGeorge | May 12, 2007 05:03pm | #12

   In my mind, wax is the final treatment--it is barely a finish, so the idea is that you can "renew" the wax treatment when ever it needs it, you can't preserve it. My thoughts also! I just wanted to see if anybody had some ideas.Many things I make use only oil and a wax finish (just me and I think they look NICE) but you do have maintain the wax finish. I guess I just did not want to come right out and say that video on coloring wax was something for everybody to use. I would guess it's Ok if you keep the work as your own.Thanks for the post!

2. 
   Gretchen | May 12, 2007 04:07pm | #9

   Wax, as Steve says, is not really an adequate finish. AND if it is something where a wet glass will be put down, you WILL have a nice white ring that is not all that easy to repair.Gretchen

2. 
   CharlieStanford | May 09, 2007 04:40pm | #2

   Just buy some boiled linseed oil and add a teaspoon of Japan drier per pint of oil.   Or just use Watco Danish oil.  It's the same thing with a touch of varnish added. 

   Do about five applications, flooding the surface each time and buffing off the excess after ten minutes or so.  You can wet sand the third, fourth, and fifth applications with garnet sandpaper.  Don't use any other kind of paper.  Use something in the 300 to 400 grit range if you can find it.  If you use 220 grit then use a light touch.  On broad surfaces use a cork sanding block.

   Wait a week after the last application and wax with Black Bison wax or something along those lines.  Johnson's paste wax works fine.  Watco makes a wax too.  Myland's is good.  Any decent furniture wax will do just fine.

   Here's a classic that's been on the 'net for some time:

   http://www.wwch.org/Technique/Finishes/OilFin.htm

   
   

   ---

   Edited 5/9/2007 9:44 am ET by ThePosterFormerlyKnownAs

1. 
   Rich14 | May 09, 2007 07:35pm | #3

   I would add, "or wet burnish with 4-0 steel wool for the last few applications."

   Then combine these last 3 messages and serve them up as a "canned response" for every new message that appears here for advice about an oil finish, oil/varnish finish or dilute "rubbing" varnish finish. What else needs to be said?

   Rich

1. 
   CharlieStanford | May 09, 2007 08:20pm | #4

   I'm not a huge fan of steel wool but it seems to work for a lot of people.

2. 
   sapwood | May 10, 2007 03:11pm | #5

   I have never heard of using only garnet sandpaper when wet sanding an oil finish. Nor am I familiar with restricting the sanding to the third and more coats rather then the first and second. Would you please explain why?

1. 
   CharlieStanford | May 10, 2007 04:43pm | #6

   I've tried many routines and many products and the protocol I mentioned in my post simply works better for me.  I've always like garnet paper, generally, better than any other.  I think it does a better job, grit vs. grit, than any other paper.

   I have no 'scientific' explanation.  I have sanded from coat one and I never got quite the warm glow that I got from holding off sanding until the last few apps. 

   Some suppliers say the grain fractures faster than man-made abrasives and results in a finer finish.  May just be marketing hype.

   More art than science which suits me just fine...

   Edited 5/10/2007 9:50 am ET by ThePosterFormerlyKnownAs

3. 
   Already | May 12, 2007 04:16pm | #10

   If you're after a wax/oil finish you should try Osmo Polyx-oil http://www.osmouk.com/hwoinfo.htm

   It's becoming widely used in the UK for built-ins and furniture because of it's ease of application and superb finish.  Cabinet maker/ restorer John Lloyd recently recommended it as his favourite in an article about finishes which was published in Furniture & Cabinetmaking.  

1. 
   Rich14 | May 12, 2007 04:51pm | #11

   Already,Well, it looks like an interesting product. But the hype on that site is shameless. Seriously wrong and misleading, while appearing accurate because various DIN standards are invoked. Ad people and marketing department gone mad. When I read nonsense like this I cringe. The kind of thing housewives believe who use spray products on furniture, not something furniture makers take seriously:"Product based on natural oil and wax
   Osmo Polyx-Oil The original Hardwax Oil is based on natural vegetable oils and waxes. Natural oils and waxes penetrate deeply into the wood, keeping it elastic and healthy, and preventing it from getting dry and brittle. The wood is allowed to breathe."Of course, it's based on "natural" vegatable oils, all oil-based varnishes are. Penetrate "deeply" into the wood? Not likely all such materials penetrate, to a few hundreths of an inch. Keep the wood elastic and healthy? Please! It's dead. It's been dead since the tree was felled. Prevent it from getting dry and brittle? The wood was dried to it's lowest moisture content before it was ever worked. Allows the wood to breathe? How many respirations a minute?

1. 
   Already | May 12, 2007 05:43pm | #13

   Rich,

   I know exactly what you mean about the ad 'blurb'. I'm surprised that they don't also claim that it brings about world peace! ;-)

   However, having used it on jobs for several clients over the past few years I've had no complaints and they've all been pleased with the finish.  

1. 
   Rich14 | May 12, 2007 05:53pm | #14

   Yes,"World Peace" (or world peas) would have been an interesting claim. They also missed, "nourishes the wood," "restores vitality," "brings out its inner radiance." But maybe they realized those attributes had already been staked by U.S products.I once had a job writing ad copy. Some day I'm going to put together a piece on shellac. Now, that CAN claim World Peace!Rich