Replies

1. 
   Crunk | Nov 11, 2004 07:42pm | #1

   Without a doubt a #7 which will be better at shooting edges on long workpieces.

   In theory, you could flatten a face with a block plane but you would spend too much time constantly checking for flat with a reference straightedge.  In other words - you can flatten stock with what you have on hand but long planes make it easier.  A #7 is a compromise of sorts.  Yes, it's a little heavy for face flattening, but if you decide to joint edges manually you will be glad you have it.

   Frankly, your #5 will work fine for flattening a face on stock from 72" down in length.  You may not need to buy another plane at all if faces are all you intend to work with hand planes.

   I just don't see a #6 offering much of an advantage over the usual combination of working with a #5 and a #7.

   I work work in an unplugged stock and dress stock with a scrubber (sometimes), a #5, and a #7.  I've never felt the need for a #6.

1. 
   Lyptus | Nov 11, 2004 08:29pm | #3

   Thanks for your input.  I have three follow-up questions: 1) When, if ever, would a No. 6 be preferrable to a No. 7 in home workshop; 2) is it at all advantageous to have a 10 lb. jointer plane (Clifton) vs. a lighter one- like the Lie-Neilsen No. 7; and 3) what would be the use of owning a No. 4 in addition to a No. 5 and No. 7? 

1. 
   Crunk | Nov 11, 2004 09:51pm | #4

   I do not find weight to be an advantage, except perhaps in a smoother.  In fact, because of elbow problems I now use several wood planes instead of their cast iron counterparts.

   Put the #6 out of your mind.  You really don't need it.

   L-N planes are better, but more costly, than Clifton planes.  However, Record planes in the Bailey pattern have worked very well for me. 

   A #4 is set up as a smoothing plane - it's is thoroughly tuned, kept razor sharp, and set with a tight mouth for smoothing and reserved for that purpose.

   If you're interested in learning more about planes you ought to consider Garrett Hack's book published by Taunton.

1. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Nov 11, 2004 10:41pm | #5

   Hi BC,

   A counterpoint here, I suppose.

   We're trained (Aust cabinetmakers) to use a No6 plane as our bench plane - I use it for over 98% of my work - the other plane I use semi-regularly is a 17" badger plane

   I think I use a smoother about once a year - the No6 is long enough to joint with, short enough to handle for a couple of hours if you need to, and, if you skew it across a single board, can be used on uneven surfaces.

   But, as you said, you get used to what you get used to.  I can do most things with a No6.

   Cheers,

   eddie

   edit:  Weight's also an advantage if you hit cranky grain or a knot

   Edited 11/11/2004 2:49 pm ET by eddie (aust)

2. 
   Ridgewood | Nov 11, 2004 08:27pm | #2

   Consider a #8.  I have a vintage Stanley #8 and it works great.  The extra 2 inches of length makes even better for jointing edges.

   Whatever you decide weight is not a huge concern to me.  When flattening the face of a board the extra weight can actually help.  Just take more breaks if necessary.

   I use mainly a #4 adn #8, along with a block plane and they do a respectable job (even if I don't)

   Doug

3. 
   mgumaer | Nov 12, 2004 12:37am | #6

   Peter,

   I've got both planes and the extra weight definitely makes the feel quite a bit different. The longer the plane you have, the flatter the surface. That having been said, to have a face acceptably flat, you don't necessarily have to remove your prize straight-edge from under its glass cover, grab your feeler gauges and work into the wee hours.

   I would go for the #7 as it give a noticably different feel and will edge joint better than the #5. In my opinion, and maybe I try to take too big of a cut from time to time, I like the momentum of the weight with the #7.

   I think if you had the #5 and the #7 there is a reasonably good chance you'd never miss a #6. I think it is more likely that if you bought the fore plane, you'd eventually be looking for a #7 or #8 to edge joint long boards.

   Matt

4. 
   BarryR | Nov 12, 2004 05:01am | #7

   I use a no. 6 as my general workhorse plane and a no. 8 for jointing edges and faces.  I have a no. 4, too but it doesn't get used much.  I like the extra weight of the no. 6 and the extra width of the no. 8.

5. 
   desertrat | Nov 12, 2004 06:15pm | #8

   If you're concerned about weight, take a look at the ECE Jointer (22").  I jointed over 300 bdf of Alder a couple of years ago and was able to work all day with it.

1. 
   Lyptus | Nov 16, 2004 04:48pm | #9

   Thanks to all of you for your advice.  I feel the general concensus is that a No. 7 is a more valuable complement to my No. 5 jack plane compared to a No. 6 and that weight is really not that big of an issue.   I'll keep my eye out for discounts on a No. 7 Clifton or Lie-Neilsen. 

   Sincerely,

   Peter