Replies

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Jan 15, 2008 09:00pm | #1

   Just for drilling? (HCM motors are pretty small compared to drill presses.) If so, in all but the smallest sizes, you could just use longer drill bits.

   [Edit: On second thought, you'd only be able to use drills smaller in diameter than the bit mounting socket -- about 1/2" or so.]

   Adding an aux. chuck, and then a drill bit, wouldn't leave you much room underneath for work -- at least, not on mine.

   On the other hand, if you do this, you could get one of those drill press adapters to convert the machine into a HCM! ;-)

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

   
   

   ---

   Edited 1/15/2008 1:01 pm ET by MikeHennessy

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Jan 15, 2008 09:15pm | #2

   Hi Mike,

   you could get one of those drill press adapters to convert the machine into a HCM! ;-)

   Hah, I'd probably be better off getting the horse to chew a hole for me! 

   I've got 2 old drillpresses, one is a 1/6 HP and the other is 1/3 HP.  Not sure but I think the ShopFox HCM is ¾HP so it would be a definite improvement.  And I think the quill travel is much greater, not sure just how much though.

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

    

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

1. 
   colebearanimals | Jan 15, 2008 10:05pm | #3

   Hi Bob,

             Using a HCM as a drill press. Would the throat depth be enough for your needs?

                                                                 Paul

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Jan 15, 2008 10:09pm | #4

   Paul,

   I'm not sure what you mean by throat depth?  Quill travel is about twice what my DP gives.  Are you talking about the distance between the bit and the fence?

   Regards,

   Bob @ Kidderville Acres

    

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

   Edited 1/15/2008 2:10 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres

1. 
   brad805 | Jan 16, 2008 01:07am | #5

   He means the depth from the chuck to either the HCM fence or the upright of the machine.  Biggest advantage I have found using a HCM as a press, is the quill travel.  I didnt have space for an 18" floor model press to get the quill travel.  I would have put an electronic phase converter on mine for permanent use as a press if it were not for the size limitation.  I have a 1hp GI.

   Brad

2. 
   colebearanimals | Jan 16, 2008 03:18am | #8

            Brad has it right , Bob. Throat depth, on a drill press, is the measurement from the chuck center to the support column. That number would be how far in from the edge of a work piece a hole could be drilled. The ability to change speeds, or lack of it, would be something else to consider.

                                                                    Paul

    ps  It really is an interesting idea. Hey, Steel City, if you're listening. How about a Hollow Chisel Mortiser  that could double as a Drill Press rather than the other way around?

                                                                              

3. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Jan 16, 2008 03:41pm | #9

   Paul, Brad & Jak,

   I haven't taken any exact measurements of the throat size but I imagine it is very close to being the same as my DP.  I will take some as soon as the temp in my woodshop gets above 20°!

   As to speed, it is used to drill mortises now so I'm not sure how much of a factor that really is.  When in HCM mode it works really good.  I purchased the LV hollow chisels and they are a dream compared to the ones that come with the ShopFox.  I did purchase the sharpening cones and they make a dramatic difference with the stock bits.

   In another discussion it was mentioned that the bits have a tendency to scream!  When I first tried it they did in fact make a lot of noise, i.e. they SCREAMED!  With a little fussing about sharpening them and adjusting the drill to extend further below the chisel, the SCREAM went away.  Perhaps usage of the LV cones made a difference? 

   This does cause an issue at the floor of the mortise if one wants a flat floor in the mortise.  However if used when tenons will be inserted, the extra depth ¼" does provide space for the excess glue at the bottom.

   Regards,

   I'm also following along with the other discussion regarding speed control of a General HCM.  I think being able to vary the speed would be a real improvement.

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

    

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

4. 
   brad805 | Jan 16, 2008 08:24pm | #10

   Here are the pics of mine.  I remove the chisel holder to allow the greatest diameter rod.  The chuck threads (National Fine) on and was about $20.  The shaft was made from 1" round stock machined on a lathe by a professional machinist.  The rod has a 5/8" diameter threaded end and 5/8" diameter unthreaded end.  The shaft cost about $75 or so if I recall correctly.  A bolt will not work, been there done that.  Too flexible and not straight enough.

   Brad

   
5. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Jan 16, 2008 08:46pm | #12

   Hi Brad,

   Thanks for the pics. 

   I really appreciate you taking the time.  The more I think/work on this the more I see it will work for me.  I'm still a bit concerned about the speed issue but as the machine is built for drilling mortises in the first place I think it will work just fine.

   Another thought that I had was that the HCM has many of the features that can be used by both machines, i.e. hold downs, stops, etc.  Next step is to make a more versatile table for use as a DP and then a fixture for long pieces such as legs.

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

    

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

6. 
   brad805 | Jan 16, 2008 09:05pm | #13

   You are very welcome.  The speed is a problem and in my case it would cost about $800 for a proper frequency modulator to vary the speed and not burn out the motor in the long run.  I would have put one on already if the HCM had a little better throat distance.

   Brad

7. 
   Jimurock | Jan 16, 2008 08:41pm | #11

   Mine squeaks (screams) when a small piece of wood gets caught between drill bit and chisel.  Lowering the drill bit would eliminate that, but it usually rights itself quickly, and I'd sooner put up with a temporary squeak than hand chisel the floor of a 1/4 inch mortise.  That job makes me scream!

   Jim

2. 
   jako17 | Jan 16, 2008 02:18am | #6

   Most important thing to consider is the speed.Most HCM machines run fast enough to smoke anything much more than 1/4 " bits.I never run my drill press as fast as an HCM even using 1/8 drills!!!!

1. 
   brad805 | Jan 16, 2008 02:37am | #7

   I have drilled 1/8" all the way to 1 9/16" forstners with it, no smoking with the woods I have used yet.  Biggest problem with speed I have had is trying to re-insert into a hole to clean it up.  At that speed if you move the stock even the slightest, it can jump all over damaging whatever you are working on.  I was using a forstner bit to auger a door rail, and it did just that.  By the time I was able to pull the darn bit out I had a problem to fix (sanding/filler pieces).  That was before I made a proper chuck extender, since then it works much better.  Other than that, it has worked very well with brad bits, forstner bits, and standard drill bits in American Cherry, Jatoba, teak, maple, birch, pine, fir and many other species.  I have even made craftsman style plugs with a dowel cutter in some exotic wood.  The adjustable table is very handy.  Its not ideal, but if you have no space it works.  Far better than the little 10" piece of junk I had been stuck with.  A quill with less than 3" is not that useful if you use any template.

   Brad

   Edited 1/15/2008 6:38 pm ET by brad805