Replies

1. 
   user-121940 | Feb 21, 2008 08:13am | #1

   That's what I would do, except I'd use the table saw only to a certain point, then switch off to a scraper or plane to get it more to the shape.

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2. 
   JohnWW | Feb 21, 2008 07:43pm | #2

   Turn a cylinder on the lathe, then cut off the needed pieces on a band saw. You will be able to get two pieces off of each cylinder. It would be easier to make the cylinder out of figured maple rather than veneer the piece afterward.

   John White

1. 
   DonC | Feb 22, 2008 01:49am | #3

   Thanks John,

   I just wish my lathe was long enough.

3. 
   DonC | Feb 22, 2008 01:53am | #4

   Well, I have the molding shape done in poplar. Now it's time to glue on veneer. I know contact cement is not the best. If I use liquid hide glue I can have long open time. I plan to wrap the veneer to the poplar curve with either fiberglass tape or strechy strips of rubber from inner tubes.

   I don't own a vac press and making matching cauls is time and materials intensive.

   Do you think my idea is ok or can you recommend a better way to veneer the curved molding?

   Thanks

1. 
   saschafer | Feb 22, 2008 02:40am | #5

   On that tight of a curve, contact cement would be history within a month, if that long. Hide or liquid resin glue are definitely the ones to consider. Epoxy would work, too, but is probably not worth the additional mess.

   I think you can make it work with tape as your clamps, but you'll have to be very careful and ensure that every inch of both edges is tightly taped down, or else you'll get all sorts of lumps and bumps.

   A female caul is certainly more work, but the glue-up would probably end up being much less exciting. You can make the caul by first finding some PVC or ABS pipe whose I.D. is just a tad larger than the final glued-up O.D. of the apron. Cut the pipe in half to form the caul. Make a series of supports by taking squares of MDF and cutting large holes in them. The diameter of the holes should be equal to the O.D. of the apron plus twice the thickness of the pipe. Cut the squares in half to form a pair of supports. You'll need enough supports so that they're spaced no more than 2" apart along the full length of the apron (closer would be better). Cover the inside of the pipe with plastic film before glue-up or else it will become one with the apron.

   -Steve

    

2. 
   mufti | Feb 22, 2008 10:42pm | #6

              Don, do not overlook the possibilities of sand bags, filled not too much. The advantages over straps are; they will conform easily to the shape and can be held in position with tape but more importantly, they may be heated before application and this will encourage the veneer to bond. This is a very old practice used in the days when workshops were cold and draughty.

1. 
   jonathan12340 | Feb 23, 2008 07:01pm | #7

   I would use a Titebond II type PVA glue, the advantage of the type II is that waterproof factor. I will explain later. Apply the glue with a roller or good brush to both surfaces (a light mist of water on the face of the veneer will reduce the curling) let both dry for an hour, then using an household iron press the two together the heat will soften the glue and bond the two together. Its is really easy and best of all works!!! Practice helps of course!Try a quick little piece before passing judgement. Use regular white or yellow PVA glue. Both work! The advantage to type II is that in order to achieve the waterproof characteristic something is added to cure the glue further over the about 10 days after drying. Regular PVA will creap if exposed to extreme heat. I made mdf clock bodies and veneered with sapele (about 10 of them as wedding gifts) the one I made for my wife & I was left in the car for a couple summer days the heat, the one seam spread open. The other nine have never had an issueI have done lots of this, from 1/2" cove molds to 20" serpentine sleighbeds curves, I happen to have a mini iron for shrinking model airplane covering ($25 from Tower Hobbies) but 90% of the time I use an old household iron on high.Hope this helps.Jonathan

1. 
   DonC | Feb 24, 2008 01:27am | #8

   John,

   When you apply heat with the iron do you rub the veneer to maintain contact with a gloved hand after removing the iron. Does the melted glue adhere almost immediately?

1. 
   jonathan12340 | Feb 24, 2008 02:07am | #9

   It adheres instantly, once the glue gets hot enough. A similar process to hammer veneering is done ensure there are no bubbles and press it down firmly, the secret I find is to remove heat as soon as you are happy with it, I use an old broken block plane it draws the heat out. I would suggest you try a sample piece thats flat, using just regular white or yellow glue it is surprisingly easy.Good luck! and have fun! I attached a picture of one of the first clocks I did, and an old table I made eleven years ago for sono tubes covered with veneer.