Replies

1. 
   Tony Z | Feb 01, 2009 07:19pm | #1

   Is this your design?  Pretty interesting, although it may present a situation of uneveness of the sole ah, ead of the mouth of the plane.  How does it work for you?

   T.Z.

    

2. 
   dkellernc | Feb 01, 2009 09:46pm | #2

   What you're looking at is Steve Knight's adaptation of an old British design.  An extra-cost option on miter planes, smoothers, and some bench planes was a boxwood wedge at the front of the throat.  As the sole wore down on the plane, the boxwood wedge can be tapped down to close up the mouth.  Both Steve's and the old British designs work very well for this purpose, though Steve's design is much easier to manufacture.

   And yes, it's worth doing on a smoother or a jointer to prevent tearout in nasty grain.  I wouldn't bother on a fore plane or a jack plane, as these are designed to have open mouths and to hog out lots of wood on each pass.

3. 
   roc | Feb 01, 2009 10:25pm | #3

   kforum,

   The term adjustable mouth opening misses the mark. It looks to me that the diagonal moving part will make up for sole wear in the front of the mouth. Moving this part will not close up the mouth opening. To have adjustment of the gap between blade and opening " mouth opening " requires a horizontally sliding part.

   Explained and shown in this article but kind of buried. See the pics of the E.C.E. Primus plane

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuidePDF.aspx?id=2588

   For a clearer pic and more info see an article by Allan Breed in Fine Wood Working May/ June 2000 Issue # 142 called Resurrect a Coffin Smoother p 106 This issue is available still from the back issues in the FWW store. Not adjustable but a clear pic of the orientation of the moving part to close up mouth.

   This book, if you have not read it yet, will provide much in the way of info about the principals of wooden hand plane design.

   http://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Woodworking-Tools-Tradition-Spirit/dp/0941936465

   By the way using all capital letters is considered shouting in a chat room.

   happy planing
   roc

4. 
   Metod | Feb 01, 2009 11:03pm | #4

   kforum,
   You can't beat a shim (of electrical or masking tape) for its simplicity, ease of change, and repeatability. If you go with Knight's 'version', you can make a two-edged one - flipping the insert upside down gives you another (predetermined) opening. Make another insert, and get two more openings. Simpler than a sliding sole (wooden or metal) and just as effective. Of course, then there is a satisfaction of being able to produce exactly machined parts of a sliding sole.
   Best wishes,
   Metod

1. 
   7Joel | Feb 02, 2009 03:29am | #5

   My understanding from Steve's website is that the feature is designed to let you tighten up the mouth if you need to after wear. Once you lower the wedge then you have to reflatten the sole as the wedge will protrude. The ECE design is similar to what is on a Stanley 9 1/2 or similar block plane but with a screw at the top instead of a threaded knob -- it is a true adjustable mouth -- set it wider or tighter as you wish. Once I have a plane working as I want it to I don't see much need to adjust the mouth so I think either way will work for you.

1. 
   Metod | Feb 02, 2009 03:46pm | #6

   Joel,
   I made three woodies with such design (there are some pictures elsewhere on the Knots - under my name). I developed the idea of the front insert about 2 1/2 years ago - thinking it was 'original'. Since then I found out that the idea is an old one. To me it makes much sense on the woodies (mine were prototypes for my metal infills) but it seems to be an overkill for a metal planes. A shim of appropriate thickness can give you two (almost instant) mouth openings, say a 'fine' and 'normal'. Adequate for most situations.
   The woodies need seasonal re-flattenings of their soles. That opens their mouth - which can then be easily adjusted with the above inserts.Check out the current Japanese Woodworker catalog - they seem to be 'inventing' the same idea for some of their planes.Should you go the 'insert route', make the screw heads flush with the inserts - the shavings tend to catch/clog on them.Best wishes,
   Metod