I am using the following steps (on a sample piece so far) to get a nice mission oak appearance on quarter sawn white oak.
Step 1 was to apply a base stain/dye
Step 2 was apply shellac
Step 3 was sand the shellac lightly
Step 4 was apply an old english gel stain and work into the pours (also from Minwax)
Step 4?5 Do I sand here at 320+, or with WetDry or use steel wool OR NOT sand at all
Step 5 was to apply a top coat of wipeon-poly from Minwax
My question is.. between steps 4 and 5 (gel stain to poly) should I lightly sand the gel stain coat. I did on a sample, but it really dulled the appearance and even after 2 coats of the wipeon poly, It appears to be duller than I had anticipated. I used 400grit wetdry paper with water at this set and if definately killled the luster from the gel stain.
The wipeon poly restored some of the luster,, but not all. Other wise, this process worked well and gave me a beautiful finish to the oak.
What are your recommendations, Thanks in advance
RichD
Replies
I'm interested, so I'm replying to trigger email notification... good question, Rich.
I'm new to this forum and to furniture making, but I've refinished quite a bit and own some original mission oak furniture.
Generally mission oak is finished minimally, and is more dull than glossy. You want to protect it but not cast a reflection. For chairs, shelves & clocks I usually use a coat of Minwax stain, buff it with 000 steel wool and stop there. With use, a chair seat will take on a nice shiny wear pattern, with the rest of it remaining more dull. Maybe a touch of wax if it is a tabletop and needs a little more protection.
For a kitchen table top or bar top that really needs protection, one or two coats of Minwax wipe-on poly or "Antique Oil Finish" (which seems to be the same thing) and again a rubdown with 000 to dull it. So it sounds like you're right where you should be with it.
Kent -Good info. What color Miniwax stain do you use?
I don't have the old can, and the Minwax site is no help, but I believe Jacobean is a very dark brown.peter26: I agree about the protection, but mission oak really should not be over-finished. You just have to be careful to wipe up spills and use pads or trivets under rough surfaces that are placed on it. Unfortunately, maybe not for kids...Oh yes, maybe one more thing. On my mission oak with original finish, you are able to feel the grain. No heavy grain filling.
Edited 2/8/2008 2:54 pm ET by KentMich
Kent Mich,
I never stated anything should be over finished. Your assessment of just using a stain is no finish what so ever.
Nor did I state the grain should be filled.
My assessment was for better products to be utilized.
Check the forum you are in.
Peter Gedrys
Peter,
I didn't mean to impugn you on your own forum. I merely wanted to make sure Rich understood the dangers of overfinishing Mission furniture. From his original posting (not enough luster) it sounded like that might be where he was headed.Sorry,
Kent
Edited 2/11/2008 11:43 am ET by KentMich
Kent,
Not a problem. I think you just got me on the wrong day.
Besides, I have the utmost respect for pilots.
Regards,
Peter
KentMich,
FWIW,
Stain alone provides no protection as a finish in any way. A coat of wax provides no real protection on a table top, it just gives it a little glow. Wax is stable and will last many years if not touched but is also fragile and will be easily abraded when the surface is used on a daily basis.
A table top or bar top finished with two coats of wipe on poly will be very short lived.
A good varnish applied in thin coats and then rubbed dull will give you a "thin" look while providing real protection.
Peter
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